Claymore

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Good find Frankie. Maybe ask for some pictures of the brackets. The wiring may be a challenge. Glanza ECU uses 3 plugs, the corolla only has 2 plugs. The starlet 4efe and starlet gt turbo only have 2 plug ecu's as well. Might not fit each other. Not sure how the immobiliser system works on the corolla either. Something for you to research.

The other benefit with sequential would be slight improvement in mpg. Not trying to change your mind but I just though it would suit your project more than some others. Dyno tuning will always be better than self tuned on the road so let the dyno operator weave his magic I say. Agree about the injector spray against the back of closed valves even for sequential, something about not enough time to spray into open valves only without some huge injectors. Think I read it on the megasquirt forum when I was comparing standalones. The only "upgrades" mines getting is some colder plugs and cleaned glanza injectors, Lol! I also read about cdi being "noisy" (electrical interference) which is why they're not used in production cars.

I think you meant capacitive? CDI vs IDI

Yeah everything's fine its just my spare time is split between car / family / diy / work etc like everyone else and currently I have lots of other things to do. Megstu's build thread has some combination of gen 3 crank trigger and COP setup. I think it would be easy to add a cam sensor and also go sequential but you have already said earlier on your build thread that you like batch fired to cool the head and valves so may not be your direction. Its the same amount of work really to go gen 3 DIS 4efe as it would be to go standalone anyway (costs may not be) but its your choice.

I've had a quick look at the E11 wiring diagrams I have and the problem is the gen 3 4efe uses 2 coil packs with igniters built in. This requires 2 separate ignition signals to be sent from the ECU, one signal to each igniter / coil. The Det 3 only has one ignition input so I can't see how it will work. I'll be honest I barely have time to research my own project so its best that Frankie discusses the engine management side of the build with the guy who will be tuning it. For all we know he only does Haltech etc. and any suggestions will be a waste of time. I'm happy to share my knowledge but don't have time for extra research anymore.

The 4efe MAP sensor part number for 96-97 models is: 89420-16050. Blue label The 4efte Glanza MAP sensor for 96- part number: 89420-10110. Orange label Looks like you have some wiring to check. The fcd should be easy to spot.

I'm looking into this for my build using the det 3 + with inbuilt 4 bar map sensor. I spoke to TD and they said whenever they do 4efe + t conversions using EMB they use a 4efte map sensor to replace the 4efe one. He didn't give specific details as to why. My thoughts on my setup: the 4efe map sensor is 1 bar (1bar vac / atmos., no boost) and the 4efte is 2 bar (1bar vac / atmos. and 1bar boost). 0-5v sensor range for both. If you add any boost to the 4efe sensor it will max. out and send 5v to the ECU and apparently there is a boost cut even on the N/A! Sensor out of range I guess. Even then the piggy back can't add more fuel (voltage) to the signal and send it to the ECU as the signal voltage its using doesn't increase past 5v and only decreases when it comes off boost. So replacing it will keep the sensor in range for the ECU and piggy, which can now adjust the fuel and timing. To be honest if you use the 4efte MAP sensor and the det 3, I don't think there is any point in getting the inbuilt MAP version of the det. This is how the guy in the budget build youtube video did his project. The det 3 can't clamp analogue inputs (Toyota MAP sensor) but it can clamp frequency signals (Karman vortex MAF etc). Alternative solutions may depend on the capability of the piggy back and if it has an inbuilt MAP sensor. Your current setup on the AEM may tell you what's possible? If you have the 4efe MAP sensor in place currently then the fuelling / timing changes must be controlled via the AEM internal map sensor directly influencing the injectors or there is no boost reference being used which is impossible? Or the AEM is sending its own internal map signal to the ECU in place of the Toyota MAP signal? How is it wired in? Also you posted ages ago that you fitted a Honda D16 turbo with a det 3? How did that work?

The first is an auto so maybe not to everyone's taste and both seem overpriced imo. The black one is on ebay as an auction so we'll see what the market dictates I guess. Hopefully a nice surprise for the owner but I just don't think prices are there yet. Nice low mileage and unmodified examples should be worth the most. Not really a great time to sell so close to xmas so this may influence bidding also. Always good to speak to the owner and chat about the car with them first and then go and view the car (when lockdown is over!?). Quite often cars are different condition from the advert to real life so it's only the start of the journey to ownership. Always worth checking the MOT history using the number plate on the https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/ Then choose MOT history and it will show the advisories and fails for the car. It can tell you a lot about the condition and upkeep of the vehicle i.e. severe corrosion, welding, whether the car turned up for testing each year with lots of problems that weren't fixed before the next test etc. Its a free check also. Then viewing, test drive, hpi check, insurance quotes, etc.....

Not the greatest from what I can see: I've circled the obvious problems, duct tape to hold the hot pipe to something, random sponge cable tied to slam panel, bolt missing from upper rad bracket, ht leads appear to be covered in electrical tape!? oh and the grille is held to the bumper with cable ties. With engineering and fabrication work of this level I would walk away but I am only going by the photos in the advert. In my opinion buying a modified example of any car can go two different ways, if built correctly and maintained well you get a bargain, if not you end up wasting your money on someone else's nightmare. Choose wisely.

You're welcome. Just remember that sometimes the cost of a project will be higher no matter how well you plan it, sometimes things are more expensive or there are hidden problems that need to be fixed. No one wants to see a project car get sold because they don't have the money to finish the car. Just a reality check really, it all seems fun and exciting at the beginning but the reality is it can sometimes be frustrating and disappointing. I wish you the best of luck and I am excited to see the build thread develop.

Nice work as always mate, deffo good to have a summer and winter car.

As I see it you have 3 options: Modify the 4efte lower power steering bracket and make a piece to fix between the bracket and corolla pump. (Sam44 has already explained how this can be achieved on the other thread.) Being as this part will need to be made with measurements taken from the actual pump and bracket when fitted to the engine no-one can provide detailed plans (dimensioned drawings) unless they have made it before. Also the corolla pump is a different part number to the 4efe Starlet pump so may have a different shape casing etc... I have checked the parts list and the lower bracket is the same for both 4efe starlet and corolla. Use the corolla lower bracket and space it out sideways / modify it to clear the oil filter housing and make a joining piece to fix to the pump. More work but saves destroying a rare 4efte lower bracket (if it bothers you). It may be as simple as using sections of round steel bar with a central hole as stand off legs welded to the bracket and a spacer for the slot but there may not be enough room, might have to remove and weld in new material to the bracket to clear the filter housing as well, but at least the adjustment slot will line up with the pump (Not tried this so may not even be possible.) Make a custom lower bracket from new metal (Lots of work, needs design and fabrication skills.) This is the reason I suggested using a mechanic with fabrication skills. Swapping the 4efte engine into a corolla is not a swap that is made very often which is why there is not much detailed information on how to do it for corolla specific problems. Most experience is based on 4efte into a starlet. With less common swaps there will be lots of new "challenges" to overcome.

I think you have not understood your mechanic. Or he is playing a joke on you with this question. The turbo is already fed with engine oil from the oil filter housing and returns to the oil pan on the 4efte as standard. With all due respect if your mechanic can't understand how to fit the engine with all the information that is here already you should perhaps look for a different mechanic. One that fabricates parts and does engine swaps, makes exhausts etc. A "normal" mechanic is not the best choice for this project. Just my opinion, don't mean any disrespect to anyone professional or otherwise.

Nice video with some tech stuff, not the usual test drive bollocks.

Right at the beginning you said the 4efe pistons were too heavy to rev to high rpm and Toyota used soft valve springs to physically limit the engine as it would tear itself apart because of g forces if it managed to rev too high blah blah. And then you posted: 15 hours ago, Sam44 said: i dont think 7.4krpm is classed as screaming its tits off. which on W.O.T conditions it would be achievable should there be a hot spot in the cylinder. It seems like a contradiction to me. 7400rpm with heavy 4efe pistons isn't screaming its tits off now? You go back and edit your posts so often its difficult to keep track of this anymore. I'm done Hey Frankie, It is probably best to buy a complete 4efte engine and get it fitted to your car that way you don't have to hunt for rare Toyota components on their own. Sam44 has posted all the info you need in this thread I think. Maybe you could make a list of parts you think you need from the information on this thread and people will advise if its ok? Don't forget to start a build thread in the: https://www.ukstarletowners.com/forum/43-other-motors-progress-blogs/ Cheers

It is when the ecu sets the rev limit at 6.?k rpm!? I never said it was impossible, I said it was unlikely to occur. Therfore probably not the main reason for the spring choice.

There are plenty of benefits to a lighter spring where suitable (less frictional losses, reduced load on valvetrain and reduced wear to shims etc...). Who's to say what the deciding factor was. I would think a 4efe engine in a situation where it's screaming its tits off past redline due to pre ignition is a fairly rare occurrence. If it had the stiffer springs.

Regarding head differences, quite often aluminium castings (and castings in general along with plastic injection mouldings) have a date cast into them from the mould for traceability etc. might help identify which head is which.

I've checked on a parts catalogue and it looks like the change in head design occurred early 1995, (checked EP82 gtt and gen 1 4efe corolla parts list). This was when the different manifold gasket was specified, which must match with the head change. So a Glanza V 4efte engine (introduced 1996) should have the head without the extra coolant passage. Assuming it still has its original head and not been swapped in the past 24 years of it existing! I don't know if there is a way of physically telling one head from the other when assembled to manifold. With all due respect, surely this is just an opinion? The only people who would know the reason for this spring selection are the Toyota engineers. It is most likely that stronger valve springs were not required in a N/A, economy focused, everyday engine that only revved to 6.?k rpm so no need to install them. Rather than intentionally limiting rpm with weak springs? The ECU also provides an electronic rev limit to safeguard the engine.

I would keep the 4efe gearbox that you have in the corolla. It should hold the power you want. As far as I know the corolla manifold will fit to the 4efte head. But be careful as there are 2 different heads. One type of 4efte head has an extra water outlet that is blocked by the 4efte inlet manifold. The other type of head has no water outlet. Water outlet type: Water outlet not covered by manifold. You would have to weld some material to the inlet manifold flange to cover the hole IF you have the 4efte head with the water outlet.

The seller has 3 Glanza's for sale, all appeared on eBay at the same time which seems a bit weird to me. None of them look great to be honest. Might be worth viewing the cars, but I certainly wouldn't bid blind on one. There are plenty of good glanza's out there, don't rush into anything with your hard earned.

Know what you mean, they seem to appear for £90 on FB market every now and then. The auction I linked above started at £90 and rocketed to £185 in the last minutes. Looks like there were 2 guys that got caught up in auction fever a bit. Amayama list them for £188 new (obviously + duty shipping etc...) but can't be much more from Toyota UK If we think about it, a 10bhp gain on an N/A for £185 is pretty good value really. But not when it used to be £50 or less! Welcome to the joys of owning an "obsolete" car (again) Lol.