gorganl2000

i believe a local track ep82 car had in a k20 swap...but have not seen it in ages or know anything about how they did it i do know is that it was reasonably fast and did some decent drag times...had some wide fender flares at the front https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wtx6NktySOQ i think that was it...but not sure which engine was in it at the time of the vid as i heard it originally had in a 4age 16 or 20 valve conversion in its earlier days

if it is not a bother, do you mind listing the issues you resolved?...this may help others in the future

i think you should be able to get an uprated pressure plate in the UK...maybe fensport, exedy, ACT,cap, etc?? i suppose the more local the product the less likely you would incur duties?!? i tend to get stuff from rhdjapan, eaby/us...as its easier for me---i'm not based in the UK rhdjapan has the trd pressure plate for sure...but maybe try your local toyota dealer

i have a few general questions mike, i hope you can assist what's the driving milage before a service/maintenance is recommended? if so, what does this maintenance involve parts and cost wise? can the maintenance be done by a local garage or does the box need to be returned to the manufacturer? does this box come with some kind of milage warrantee? thanks for any responses

i'd suggest you get a stock clutch and an uprated pressure plate with maybe 20-40% more clamping force (i suppose you can find one on your end at a decent price---similar to the TRD unit spec wise) it will give you a nice daily drive feel and take the power you put at it with the hybrid for a very long time

about 3 quarts....gearbox takes a little less than that to fill make sure you use the correct filling hole and the surface is flat

could i ask why you need one? as the stock fuel rail is quite enough for really big power have you considered maybe painting the stock rail as an option,, if this is strictly for aesthetic purposes?!?! just trying to save you some money and possible connection issues i'm sure others can guide you on the uprated rails out there if you insist on getting one....

just get back a decent core with the same/similar dimensions and you should be ok...use back your existing piping

well i think i have my answer thanks to the both of you may risk with the elbow...as the space is very tight

seems this is a cheaper alternative when your mounts are in good condition.......even if you buy cheaper new mounts and fill them before you install and i'd suggest you maybe fill the rear mount first with polyurethane (((or install the insert for the rear mount first---if you decide to go that way) before you do any others...as this can kill a lot of the engine movement alone....BUT also you will be able to gauge the increase in any car/cabin vibrations and reduced engine movement before you decide if you want to do the others

make sure you label the shims before you remove them....like in1, in2,etc...ex1, ex2, etc put them back in the exact spot you took them from when reassembling PS- remember to put the "tension/service bolt" into the cam before you remove it

thanks duduglanza

as the title says, would there be any noticeable impact on the volume and "smoothness" of air flow between the two? this is with respect to 2.5" silicone hose bend/elbow on turbo air intake (and inter cooler piping) in my mind it seems the elbow may cause turbulence and slight air flow restriction....but maybe persons with more technical knowledge of the area or practical experience could lend their thoughts ....... i've come to realize theory and reality don't always equate

id go wepr....mild steel....i have been using a MS manifold from sacha now from 2008/2009....absolutely no issues

i also recommend meisters they perform well on various roads (highways and secondary roads) and i cant fault them i cant talk about the lowness...a lot of my roads are too rough for excessive lowness plus you get great service from the seller....before and aftersales but seems you made up your mind already to go for BCs

i'd suggest the tf035...simply because 1) it can be purchased relatively cheaply (and replacements as well)...2) it will give you close to the power and response you seek...3) the flanges will allow you to upgrade in the future to td04l/td05/vf series if you want (so you have MANY fairly priced/power choices if you ever need). if money is no problem,,,then the gt/gtx series look good....but it would need to be ball bearing version---not sure if they come in small sizes

if you haven't bought tires yet..maybe consider kumho ecsta xs ku36...i've been very happy with mine, but i live in the caribbean (lots of sun...lots of rain) so not sure how it compares to your area as it seems Uk is more overcast i've tried toyo t1-s, t1-r, proxies, ...none of these come close

^^^ do this and also check map sensor/connection, distributor, plugs, wires and 02 sensor/connection

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?74516-oem-headgaset-can-handle http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-86739.html http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-97735.html those are just a few of the many links on the topics

the stock h/gasket and stock h/bolts will handle the power and boost you mentioned above without issue----assuming you have oem/genuine items and your engine is in good condition some people have pushed the stock h/gasket and h/bolts far beyond your goals...300++bhp, 1.5/1.7bar you will need a good tune regardless

that's the best way dude....and when you buy new, no need to worry about premature failures

save your money and buy a new set...as the others have advised meister's work well

just for informational purposes....i can vouch that an ep82 PS rack will work on an ep91

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/82270-emu-jumpers/?hl=%2Bjumper+%2Bsettings http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/73393-e-manage-ultimate/ ...scroll down to the bottom for ep91 and ep82 wiring links

as far as i know emu raises rpm limit...but takes a bit of messing around iirc