WallaceGlanza

It would not be strong enough and neither would the rear strut brace, it needs to be properly braced like a rollcage would be.

Is that with the HKS yeah? If it is just leave it at that, no need to get the ebc unless you need it - but you'll only find that out once you hit the road!

I hope the rebuild and remap goes ok this time.

Do it in 4th, if you set it up in the lower gears it will sit higher in 4th/5th. The JAM ecu may only have raised the fuel cut level slightly, the pop and engine management light coming on like you describe is what fuel cut does. Also the JAM ecu won't do anything to effect the boost level. Just find a nice long quiet piece of road and have a play there to set up the HKS.

I would say "get this thing mapped already" but think you may pull out a few more hairs if I did... It'll all be worth it in the end, stick with it. Yours has some of the nicest parts a glanza can get, great progress as always.

Will there be boobies?

The second port on the stock actuator should be connectod to the hi/lo solenoid or a boost controller otherwise it will run the base setting of the stock actuator - since its old and weak it could well be 0.2bar. I would fit the HKS and set it up properly at 0.8bar doing the runs in 4th gear and use a bit of trial and error to set the length. One main thing though - take it easy when doing it! There's no need to just hammer the throttle every time, ease the boost up to see where it settles so you don't hit fuel cut all the time! The HKS will hold boost better if setup properly.

It's an easy way of adjusting the boost if you don't have a boost controller - but even if you do have a good boost controller a decent actuator will still improve the way the boost comes on. You will notice a difference even if running the same boost - but the peak power will be the same.

The stock actuator will be worse at holding boost than the HKS, you just need to get it set right - do it in 4th gear not 1st. When you fit the new collars to the coilovers copper grease the whole thread it will help protect them.

Yeah but not give an actual higher peak power figure - which is what I said?!

It won't give you any more power in outright figures but may provide a bit more power/torque lower down as it might respond quicker plus the stock actuator may leak at higher boost. Not all mods need to add power to give you a gain in performance.

This is the guy that originally makes the dials: http://www.mygarage-glasgow.co.uk/pages/In...ndiglodials.htm Phone: 0141 416 1388 FAX: 0870 7064 251 Mobile: 0780 362 0018 E-mail: sales@mygarage-glasgow.co.uk MSN: gary_yuen42@hotmail.com Skype: my-garage The transfomer cost £30 last year but as I say it's blown already with very little use....

Yeah, there's a spare plug on mine too. Most likely the transfomer has blown - I replaced mine and it has blown again already.

Adjust the actuator again and then see if you can hit 1 bar - assuming you have got other supporting mods (fuelling something to remove fuel cut etc?)

Just a bit of feedback to say he's a great seller very helpful and delivered my bits super quick! Thanks again Ed.

They look nice- when they work, mine have blown the transformer again for the second time.

Rear fog light-it just needs wired in properly!

Was going to say the same myself, fans don't work as effectively both ways - I got a second hand rad with fan fitted on the engine side and assumed it should suck so that's the way I wired it up, however I've noticed the car getting hot when stood still even with the fan on. I checked last night and noticed the fan should be blowing - so someone bought the wrong fan (or put it on the worng side).

The turbo engines are low compression to handle the boost, you could put the turbo straight ona higher compression na engine but you won't be able to run the same boost - it will be pokier with less boost though.

Certainly on the glanzas with abs the bearing just pops into the disc. Its an easy job, only thing to make sure is that you don't under or overtighten the shaft end nut - it only needs to be slightly nipped up then check that the wheel spins freely but with minimal play. Certainly on the glanzas with abs the bearing just pops into the disc. Its an easy job, only thing to make sure is that you don't under or overtighten the shaft end nut - it only needs to be slightly nipped up then check that the wheel spins freely but with minimal play.

Not as well as it should no. The thermostat seal failing or the stat sticking open is very common - I've had it myself, the car took longer to get upto temp especially when drving quicker, bear in mind that even when the stock gauge is at the mid point the temp still isn't at normal operating temp - that gauge is as good as useless. I would put money on it being the stat either leaking through the seal or stuck open.

Yeah probably just the sender or a dodgy connection.

Ebay, get some LED ones as the coated ones can go flakey and turn white - I know from experience and being pulled over/fined for it!

If you're taking the reading off the standard temp gauge then there is a problem (most likely thermostat as I said) as it should get upto temp then never move unless the car is severely overheating, but then it will have probably boiled all the water. If you have an aftermarket water temp gauge then what temperatures are you seeing?

Sounds like the thermostat could be stuck open, its easy and cheap to change.