WallaceGlanza

No.

First thing is to disconnect the king lead from the distributer and the efi fuse so there's no fuel and no spark. You are also supposed to do it with a warm engine. Then you remove the spark plug from the first cylinder, screw in the tester then with the throttle fully open crank over the engine on the starter until the gauge stops reading any higher (maybe 5secs of cranking) then take the reading remove the tester and refit the first spark plug then move onto the second cylinder. Repeat it for all 4 cylinders and compare the readings, they should be all be roughly the same and in the range

You can buy a compression tester from halfords for less than £20 then all you need to be able to do is remove your spark plugs as thats where the tester go's.

This is for future reference as well as helping you LarQ..... A little oil coming out of the dump valve is normal, if its an excessive amount then it could be due to the turbo seals having gone or the piston rings being excessively worn. With the dump valve in the standard position the oil will come out there if either of these are gone but you would normally notice blue smoke from the exhaust too due to the oil burning through it. If a breather filter is put on the rocker you can rule out which it is (if either), if the oil stops coming out of the dump valve and just comes out the breather

Nope, its actually the idle control valve he's talking about. If you unplug the electrical plug going into it you'll notice the revs drop slightly and the ticking will stop. If you have an excessive amount of oil coming out ofthe breather then unfortunately your piston rings may be badly worn best to do a compression test to check the health of the engine.

Unfortunately the only way to find out which spline count yours has is to count them!

Your not going to hit fuel cut at 7psi and the solution to hitting fuel cut is not to just throw on an fcd! Looks like the turbo maybe getting restricted for some reason,is it getting oil ok the feed isnt blocked or anything? There's no sounds of a leak or anything? It sounds very strange if it just stps whilst boosting.

Yes they're, its based on the Blitz Nurspec. It won't be mega loud, depends what you want.

A screamer pipe is basically a direct exhaust from the wastegate of the turbo. With an internal wastegate setup - as on the stock ct9 turbo, this invloves a dual exit or separated downpipe which at one side joins to the exhaust like normal from the turbo exhaust housing and at the wastegate side has a short open pipe which vents to atmosphere thus making the "screaming" noise when the wastegate opens. A separator plate is needed in the turbo between the wastegate and turbine exhaust wheel to stop the exhaust gases simply leaking straight out of the screamer pipe. People's opinions differ on

Thanks for the warm welcome Joz and cheers to the rest of you, I'll do my best to continue helping members and the forum's growth in general. Its nice be part of the team.

Hi Sam, I'm needing a washer seal thing, it goes on the large bolt which goes through the oil filter housing into the block. Just the washer itself is all I need. Hope that vague description is of some use! Cheers Wallace

Looks good mate, but you don't need to start a new thread just update your old one.

I seen him make one post a few months ago but he swiftly deleted it. He's always online but he must be a mute now!

Sounds like the turbo, you could do a compression test to rule out the piston rings or piston damage for peace of mind.

Woop wooop

If there is oil in the intercooler pipes it is most likely the turbo, is there any coming out of the breather on the rocker cover?

Fucking hell, thats horrific! That really sends a shiver down my spine. Glad you both came out mostly ok and I wish Bourkey a quick and complete recovery.

Thats just to control the actual idle level, the bit I'm talking about is here; Thats the idle control valve which is also the bit that ticks loudly! If you unplug the electrical connector the idle will drop as I mentioned this can cause an erratic idle if its gets to dirty.

Its the thing on the left side of the inlet mani with the electrical plug in it, if you unplug that plug then the idle will drop a bit.

"choke housing" I guess is the same as the automatic choke, is it the bit at the end of the inlet manifold? Thats the idle control valve which I think does the cold idle, it can be taken off and cleaned which usually is all it needs.

But it keeps popping out when I look at that pic ;)

That could also be due to your thermostat being stuck open.

Joz can get in contact with him for you. ;)

You could try changing the engine temp sensor as it sounds like it doesnt like running hot. Other things to check are the condition of the spark plugs to show signs of overfuelling and also the map sensor as if its not wroking or reading incorrectly it can cause runing problems.

The light comes on just before you hit fuel cut too as a warning, I think it will be that.