keirz

would more than likely just need to find one close a make it fit. any competent rebuilder should be able to do this

the ct20 i feel would be quite laggy on a 4e without massive gains. never really seen results from one but by looking at the turbo that would be my guess as the turbine end is huge and compressor isnt massive. some ct12s use a ceramic shaft that dont work too well compared to a steel shaft. to be honest, if your gonna bother getting a mani and down pipe made up for one of the different trims of ct12 that use a different fitment to the ct9 you may as well just choose a better turbo. a newer garret turbo would be miles better, lighter, more efficient, cheaper and easier to rebuild, hybrid ec

yeah wastegate cracks like above are not gonna cause major problems like people seem to think. firstly there are loads of ct12s , a ,b ,c ,d ,e ect i assume you mean the basic ct12. it will fit exactly the same on mani, down pipe and oil/ water lines. the ct12 has a better turbine end, bigger shaft and a bigger a/r turbine housing so in this area its a good turbo. it lacks a good compressor end though and its smaller than a ct9 on the compwheel. a hybrid ct12 would be the best option. may be a little laggier but not too bad.

i dont think you have major engine problems the turbo can still smoke and perform excatly the same as it did before, so still possible its that. to rule out the pcv i blocked off the inlet mani port and left the pcv venting to atmosphere. how safe it is to run the car like this for long periods i dont know but i cant see it doing any damage as your just using the pcv as a second breather. this way nothing from the pcv can enter the inlet. so it smoked on this turbo before you canged pcv?

look at the breathers first. what can happen is when the breathers are blocked the engine has to use the turbo as a breather. leave your breather open, disconect from catch tank. and if poss get a different pcv. try that and see how that goes. most turbos have very slightplay when new due to the lack of oil and oil pressure. thats quite normal. i always really look after my turbo too but mine still died, ive not really researched why mine died yet but will do a report when i get chance. hows it performing? engine damage is usually much worse on boost due to the pressure so i dont think yo

i would still say turbo really just because of they way its smoking and the blueness. sounds exactly like mine when it went a few weeks back. try a different turbo on there to rule it out

if the turbo has very slight play mate only the turbine side could leak. mine leaked nothing into the compressor or intercooler pipes at all. could lick them they was that clean. and also there was hardly any oil turbine side, im talking a drop of oil can cause a hell of a lot of smoke. mate a turbo can die in seconds, the biggest killer of turbos is oil. oil starvation, oil contamination, incorrect oil viscosity, not being correctly primed, switching the engine off before its cooled down, boosting before the oil is at the correct temp and viscosity to fully lube the bearings, ect. its all ab

sounds to me like it could be turbo, my turbo went just recently, it smoked on and off, some days lots, some days not at all. it smoked on idle and at pulling off speeds but didnt smoke on boost at all. i was loosing no oil at all, it only takes the smallest spec of oil to cause lots of smoke. i had no loss in boost or performance. took the turbo off and there was slight shaftplay. im not saying it is turbo 100% but its a very strong possibility. are you loosing coolent? first off check all your breathers. and about the oil viscosity effecting the smoke, if there is a slight gap in the t

very nice mate

no you couldnt do that mate, the bearing housing would not fit the turbine housing. i dont know of any garrets that are direct fit. there are a couple of ct12s that would fit but in order to get decent power from them it would be best to make them into hybrids in my opinion.

yeah but if he knows your turning up at said time im sure he could put 2 and 2 together best of luck if he turns up on getting your money back

^^^ bit daft advertising the fact mate. could quite easily read this thread or be tipped off.

yeah the blitz k1 is just a hybrid ct9. it uses a slightly bigger a/r turbine housing if my research is correct but the compressor end is not as good as most hybrids on the market. will make same figures as other ct9 hybrids.

yeah im with you mate, i dont think the gt spec does. hence its not really that important as the added power can easily be made with the bigger compressor on the ct9 but cutting back the blades also helps exhaust gasses escape quicker and in theory making the turbo more efficient in that sense. i may do some research into this on my own car, as my new turbo i havent cut back the blades. i may get a power run. then whip the turbo off, cut it back and get a re run to see the results.

not sure if im reading you post wrong or wheather your getting things confussed, i could just be misreading what you have wrote.. the blades that are cut back are on the shaft and have nothing to do with the compressor wheel mate.

its a massive field! there wont be any problem for space going on the past few years.

hey rob, just a thought but if you want that mani shot blasting then let me know and i will sort it for you. just drop me a pm mate,

the benifits are that it allows the gases to escape quicker from the shaft and turbine housing, as it trims a portion of the shafts blades away. so should see gains top end, the size of the gains are questionable and it will also be at the expense of some spool up time as there will be less shaft blade surface area to spin it up. but again the amount is questionable. its not something you can do yourself. the turbo will have to fully stripped, cutting it back is a difficult job to get right too and takes a lot of skill. then the turbo would need to rebuilt and balanced. hope that helps a li

the jam ecu is very good too. ive had mine a while now and its taken everything thats been thrown at it. at a RR day the tuner comented on mine being the best map he has seen all day. fueling was spot on and made good power. i have no other fueling mods other than the JAM ecu. it helps if you know what the ecu is mapped for or has been used for in the past. i would happily use one again, im changing turbo set up at the minute and when its done its gonna go back on the dyno again to check everything is fine and the JAM is coping and fueling well. i have no doubts that it will adapt to the ne

sportif or s is the way to go i feel mate. its basic, they are cheap and your not weighed down with all the added extras

next time just do it properly first time!

no problem mate, bit of a pain taking it all off again but at least it will sort it.

thanks mate, im sure it should work fine. if not i have my old one to fall back on as im gonna keep it as a spare. when i get back to my house i can post up some specs like inlet, outlet, compwheel size ect, to give an idea how it compares to a ct9

check vacuum lines mate for the high idle could possibly be that. due to the small size of the ct9 it is best to keep it cooled. it should be easy enough to get a new gasket and change it while its in position i would have thought mate.