It has dip stick. Fit it to full, start engine select all gears, stop engine, check level, fill if necessary, start engine, select all gears again, check level top up if needed.......and again and again till it stays at top level.
You would have to go custom made, as companies Don't sell off the shelf forged N/A pistons. So best bet is getting yourself a piston and sending it to who ever is your choice and give them the piston as a sample.
The components inside are missing for the auto box inside the MT ecu. I know I've pulled them apart to compare them. Did you also put an auto glanza loom in for the knock sensor and separate coil pack ign amp?
If there to tight, when it's up to temperature the valve will stay open ever so slightly due to expansion. They need to be within the tolerance stated. If to tight you will loose power if to loose it will be tappy and you will loose power. Lucky your on the tight end of the scale so you need to take the buckets off and take a small amount off the top to the valve to lower the bucket to give you more clearance. Do it a tiny bit at at time and keep checking it's a long process but it will be right.
It's a short shifter that was originally made for the yaris but I'm not sure when he realised that the yaris runs the c series gearbox, but obviously now selling them for the starlet and any toyota that runs the c series box as well. Been told there on the boarder of to short for the yaris as well.
Lsd would make a difference Colin. It'll help with corner speed and reduce staring line wheel spin. 1.5 also help with heavy breaking. I was going to fit LSD to my yaris Tsport Only had 125bhp.
Should do. Depends how low your rear pads are. If there low as well, which is possible as the fluid has dropped so much. It might not quite go back to full, so long as it's above minimum you'll be fine.
Fluid will be low as the pads are. As soon as you push the pistons back to put the new pads in the fluid will be back at full. If you fill it now, when you push the piston back, brake fluid will piss out of the master cylinder and it'll destroy your paint if left. .
If the fuse box is the same between Jap and UK year specific,does that mean the way they pass through the firewall will be the same to? If so, more of a good reason for this thread to show people when they are doing conversion that they need to specify more 96 to 98 spec looms or they won't fit.
I'm come across some differences in the ep91 engine bay fuse boxes. I've got a 96 spec glanza engine bay loom and fuse box and a 98spec uk SR and as expected the engine bay fuse boxes are different. But upon looking on the net I came across ASAD's uk Starlet CD with the same fuse box as a Glanza. My 96 spec Glanza fuse box ASAD's UK CD fuse box My 98 spec SR fuse box As you can see Asads fusebox is the same as a 96spec Glanza one making it easier for him to just get a sensor/ancillary loom from a 96 spec Glanza and maybe just plugging it in. I've not seen a picture of a 98spec Glanza yet to see if it's different. Now what I would like is a photo of your EP91 engine bay open fuse boxes, with model and year, be it or UK or Jap please Trying I'm trying to make a detailed conversion guide which will hopefully make life easier cheaper and maybe make looms from breakers more desirable.
I've just been and measured the front disks on my paseo as the wheels are off and they are about 250mm. I'm I right in thinking they are bigger than my starlet SR disks? Think there 229mm none ABS info from Euro car parts.