Keri-WMS

Hiya, that's not been tested yet as far as I can remember, but you can check using the PDF templates. Drop me a PM if you're stuck!

There are no prices here on the News thread, see http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=234 to ID your car - to see if you have the right bore size etc! Drop me a PM if you have any questions! :-) Keri - WMS

My one? http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....showtopic=25345

Have you tried your WMS kit yet though? (sorry if my replies will be slow, in the Alps part of a roadtrip!)

It's £418.76+vat for the AE101 (and other Corollas with the same hubs) kit, that's the calipers/brackets+inserts/275x25 discs. The Earls WMS/AE101-fit lines are the same price as for the EP (although not the same fit!) at £50.77+vat and the pads are the same as the other WMS kits, see www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=234 for more!

Is that the AE101 shape? I have a 4-pot kit for that, we fitted it to a 3SGTE Woodsport-upgraded AE101 hatch a while back! Also have them for the AE82/92 earlier ones. Geo, have you fitted your WMS EP 4pot kit yet dude?!!! It's your kit's first birthday soon!

I would have said this girl's number was 1000% safer on the walls of a pub loo than with the lads here!!!! I bet she'll get a heap of "offers".....

Right, UK ST185 = 277mm. "some other" 255mm disc Celicas were twin-pot, and the super-struts were in some cases 4-pots on a bigger bolt centre (ST205). Also there are two widths you need to check, the caliper and the carrier. You can fit "thin" Toyota calipers on "wide" carriers, and the danger is that the pads drop down the gap between the carrier and the disc as they wear! Just double-triple check it's all spot on, assume nowt - Toyota made a lot of things cross-compatible, but you can get yourself in trouble. My Rev1 MR2 I just bought had Rev 2-4 "wide" rear calipers on Rev1 carriers - not good and I bet the previous owner had no idea!!!! Can you get them blasted? If so do it, then blow them over in a nice colour and get us all the hidden part numbers and we'll see what we can see!

To be honest I wouldn't like to say! It's possible, but make 100% sure it's all safe (all slides properly, nothing catches, pads can't get out or bend, etc etc etc) before you drive on it....

Mk1 MR2 and EP are both 131mm centres (and both single-pot calipers), the Mk2 MR2 is 149mm and twin-pot. If you've got 131mm centres and twin-pots then it's probably a lower-spec Celica caliper (Jap import ST185 maybe?).

I'm mulling over coming along to get some test miles on the SW20 GT track-bitch before I do Italy > Nurburgring > home on the 18th, but it'll be tight (got welding then MOT then cambelt etc to do before testing etc). I'll probably crash the IMOC or TwoBrutal stand or something....depends who makes the best cuppa or has biccies! Be good to see some faces if I do make it though!

Fk me.....me, my brother A with his gf, and brother B with his two kids and his new gf were all stood on that bank watching the historic F1 two weeks before!

Fair enough, just give me a shout and I'll sort you out with some! (I can't do any for the rear yet as EBC don't seem to list them...)

Hi Phil, sorry for the slow reply!!!! From the 22mm thick discs and Red you're running, the upgrade steps I suggest would be: - EBC Yellows if you manage to get fade with the Reds (have you managed it so far?). ...then.... - 25mm thick discs if you STILL get fade, or if the 22mm ones warp (no-one has warped any yet as far as I know). You'll need the thicker caliper spacers+longer bolt kit to match, to make the calipers the correct width for the 25mm disc - I'm happy to re-build the calipers for you if you drain all the fluid out and clean them for me first!!! (just drop them off as you're local) However, if the Reds don't fade (some people race on them), and the 22mm discs don't warp, I would try the car as-is, because A. you'll have better brakes from cold and B. you'll have less unsprung mass with the lighter disc meaning better handling/grip and faster acceleration/braking!

That's brillient! (less so for the electrical gear in the house over the road I bet!) We've had some stonking storms down here today - and there I was stripping a MR2 T-Bar in the rain like a right plonker (should have left the roof 'til LAST!). I've got four MR2s as of today, time for a cull!

Cheap and cheerful, but I bet it's still fun! 3.2L 280bhp 4x4 Civic on slicks...

I was picking up an MR2 yesterday and the lads had several banger/stock cars including an EG Civic. I said "they doa good job for a cheap car" etc and he said " come and see my other one".....so off we went, and it was: - White - EG hatch... - Black 15" (E30 BMW) BBS's, with slicks! - A 140bhp vtec..... - ANOTHER 140bhp vtec in the back!!!!! <<< Good man!!!!!

Here's another one, when you're in trouble (crash in front of you, or someone pulls out on you....or you are off the road dodging trees due to driver error!!!!)....get in the habit of deliberatly saying in your head "where's my gap, where's my gap..." etc. Might sound mad, but if you look at what you're avoiding you'll hit it! But if you look at a way PAST you will be far more likely to avoid it. Object Fixation (or Target Fixation) is what it's called, and it's why when a biker falls off all the other guys manage to run him over, when you could get like five bikes past either side of the guy on the floor! Here's an example: and So look at the road where you want to put your car, not at what's got in your way. (...as usual make your own mind up, don't sue/blame me, yada yada...)

Ok, I have a a few things I would suggest here, not aimed at anyone, just general observations. First off - make sideways your friend! I mean practice lift-off (and handbrake induced) oversteer on some (100% safe private land with no chance of hitting anything or anyone!!!) wet grass or wet tarmac, so that when you feel it start to go you can do the right things which are (usually, DON'T take my word for it without trying it): Front wheel drive, if the back steps out you get on the throttle and apply opposite lock to "pull" the front back straight, don't touch the brakes. Here's a masterclass by Plato-San, admittedly at a high rate of knots: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPCGnkApnDU...feature=related Rear wheel drive is almost the opposite, you ease off to NEARLY zero throttle and apply opposite lock, when it starts to come back you easy back on the power and straighten up early to stop it going out the other way in a tankslapper! As for reasons it stepped out without warning, I would say: 1 - It was wet and we're all used to dry roads and / or diesel spill on the roundabout (the combination will do it). 2 - If it was dry, my vote is a duff shock or deflated tyre on the left-rear. 3 - Bald tyre on a wet road. ...or, less likely.... 4 - Rear suspension too hard. 5 - Rear brakes getting too much bias, or front brakes done for (ie the rear is doing too much). 6 - Miss-matched front/rear wheels, cheap tyres, general handling etc are unlikely to be the cause IMO. I've based this on owning and being sideways in: Mk1 Escort, Mk2 RS2000 (brother's), Capri, AW11 MR2, SW20 MR2, Mk1 Uno Turbo, Sierra, VW Scirroco, EG Civic, my brother's 2.5TD Hilux/surf thing, rental old RWD long wheel base transit van and more I've forgotten.

I've spead the word to the Gen 4 lads in case someone's game!

Ok, if we're talking legs..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vKjoz2qn_I

lol - What's wrong with you lot, haven't you ever heard how curiosity killed the cat?!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xf8G-c_eAhs - Really really really nasty....!

Well, it's ok or it wouldn't be sold, but there are better performing options. Plus you can't mix it with the non-silicon types, so you need to be sure which type your car has currently and if the brake system parts are ok with it. If Toyota reckon you can use it then fine, but you might need to flush the old stuff out totally if it's dot 4 etc.

Makes it easier to talk to you that way!