Rob H@RCH Engineering

Me and the missis are in for sure!! had a great time this year!

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Bit more of a up date I've been having some problems with the Ford idle control valve I fitted, its been causing electrical problems and also the idle is all over the place at times and then its ok again so since I am running a ECU for a Honda I thought it would make sense to convert it to a Honda ICV in stead of the Ford one so this is what I have made up today to make it fit the Starlet TB. Started with a piece of 3mm alu plate cut it to shape to so there was a place for the valve bolt to fit that hung over the side seen as the holes in the valve and the TB dont line up I had the

LOL too right!! it wont be stopping blue tho! my engine should be a give away what colour it will be!

get some one to bounce the car while you look to see if you can fined it normally works well. It could be the shocker top mount thats causing the banging, theres not that much on the rear to cause a noise, top mount, bottom mounting on the shock, axle mounting bush to the body and the panard rod bushes.

Cheers lads! Its not had a good clean since JAE lol it was just too nicer morning not to take the picks if we get a good sun set I might take some more tonight as its out side our back door!! 98 spec front end coming in the spring I aint getting it all painted up the those Boosterds in there gritters to chip it all!! The tail gate and bumper are getting painted in a few weeks so I will be happy then as they let the hole car down!!

You can fit a turbo fly wheel and then use a turbo clutch the fly wheels bolt straight on to the N/A engine.

Had to have a play as its a lovely misty morning. The camera filters quite a lot of the mist out but still worked out good I think

I get full boost on a TD05 16G before 3800rpm on a 4E so it sure would spool faster on a 5E

Bad look mate had this 3 times my self in the past but never a rod out of bed. launch control and anti lag are 2 of the fastest ways to screw your engine! especially on a stock engine if they dont do what yours has done the burn the valves out prematurely too. I could run both on my set up with the AEM ecu I am running but I dont see the point and I dont intend to be building new engines every week!

Done!! that is easy! even a grease monkey like me found it easy lol well done Matt!!

Cheers lads just need the old boy to have some time off so I can fit it now! He seams to like going off when I'm working lol

Cheers John! Well got a nice box in the post this morning!! need to fit the contents of it now!! not as description lol Bit of JDM!! Even has a brand new friction disc if needed later on!!

sorry I late for work some one used my ramps for fire wood!!

Thats what I have the Nur spec, the bottle neck was smaller than the out let of the turbo! may as well run a cat lol

It wont cause a problem as such but it causes a HOT spot in the exhaust system, thats one of the hottest places in the exhaust after the turbo, we did quite a lot of tests on the dyno with with mine and found even a slip joint in the exhaust can make a difference in flow and EGT temps. I was trying to be helpful not criticize in any way.

Cheers lads! No not yet Socks think its looking like a 6 puk but time will tell lol the one that's in carnt make its mined up what it wants to do! Was playing with a Kawasaki ninja going to work and it never slipped once but yet just normal driving then give it a bit it slips. Think it must be time of month lol.

Looking good Rob! I would be getting that bottle neck sorted on the front pipe once ya up and running that could cause quite a ristriction my blitz front pipe is just like that but I have a compleat custom one on the car. Keep it up wish mine was that clean! It might get some TLC over the winter but I'm enjoying driving it too much to clean it lol

Cheers Mark! Clutch is next thing on the cards as it wont hold now so not got a chance of it holding on the dyno packs lol

I am in need of a new clutch, something that will take 250whp+ but also is nice to drive with not a on/off switch! at the moment its looking like something along the lines of the ORC super single or a twin plate. Any one got any views on ant of them how they drive and so on I can live with rattles just dont want anything thats going to make me look a twit when I and queuing in traffic all the way to work!!! Cheers Rob

Well I was going to get a welder at one of the bus garages I work at to weld me 2 -10an fittings onto the rocker cover but he was too busy to do it for me but he did say the TIG is over there go have a play with it lol, I have never welded ally with the TIG I have weld stainless before but thats completely different! After about half an hour of plying I thought stuff it lets have a go! This is how it turned out not the neatest but its something els I can say I did that!! lol Just need to sort a better catch can now!

ATF as funny onion says, Thats what was recommended to me by my gear box builder and Quaife also say it is good to use with there diffs, makes for a nice smooth gear box! and as cheap as chips to buy too! A lot of the syncro problems with starlet boxs are caused by the oil they need a good slippy oil that does not drag, most thick oils have a lot of drag which is good from a lubrication point but not so good for the syncros that need to slip freely to work properly.

Done! good look mate I did this on foot years ago was good fun!

yes they should but It depends on how wide the rim is but I would not fancy 40 profile as it will make the ride a lot harder I think 45s are bad enough Im going up to 50s next.

Too much oil does not cause high oil pressure as its a mechanical pressure relief valve that opens at a set pressure. Too much oil will cause low oil pressure as the crank whisks up the oil making if frothy, once the oil is full of bubbles it can not be compressed by the pump the same, causing low oil pressure.