AdamB

Too hard to tell if it will need a FPR or not, but I would doubt it as all these ECU's run slightly rich no matter what setup. So if its been mapped for a td04 and your on a ct9 it will still overfuel. I've heard that they don't tend to like running above stock fuel pressure because it becomes increasingly harder to control injectors as the pressure is increased. I would take the car for a run, and get to know exactly what its doing, otherwise we can just keep guessing till sun rise. If it is only doing it on the over run then its probably just been a bit paranoid. If its something you can fe

Can't wait for the videos!

Wrong, if its doing it on the over-run its just running a little rich, no problem. If doing it during acceleration theres a problem, missfire of somesort where the un-burnt fuel is igniting in the turbine housing. Have you got an AFR gauge? If not I wouldn't have just thrown the ecu in and "expect" it to be fine. I would still get it checked on a wideband and det cans to ensure its not doing any harm to your setup.

Thats not the same colour Abbotts old GT was is it?

I would go with an aeromotive FPR, too many Sard knock offs floating about.

This was on ebay not so long ago on bidding. Sold for something like £855.

x2, theres one connection on the thermo housing which goes straight to the dash, tiny spade connector, single wire.

I would adjust it until it suits your engine mate. No harm in being a smaller gap, but its better to run a larger gap. The gap is not directly related to the boost pressure you run. Its more related to how efficient your ignition system is overall. Remember that you want the least resistance possible. Hence its still possible to run a 1.1mm gap even if you are running 2 bar boost pressure, yet run coil on plug ignition system.

Seats are awesome mate, not as light as I expected. Weigh more than the stock ones so may change them at some point. but there super comfy! Can't wait to see this when you get it back with all the goodies on it mate

If it blows out the spark you will develop a missfire under load. I'm not sure what the gap spec is when you buy a set new but its always best to measure. I think they are 1.1mm. You will also get better fuel economy with a larger gap, not that you will likely notice a difference lol.

A wider gap gives a stronger spark, only if its not blowing out. I would start at 1.1mm, if you get a missfire under load, ie uphill 4th gear. Then gap it down to 1.00mm and so on.

Boost and oil pressure are the main ones. A wideband gauge will help as well, but if its been mapped properly its not something I would worry about if your on a budget. I've seen just as many engines die from oil pressure problems than I have boost/detonation related. I've had 2 engines die from oil pressure problems and its a pain in the shitter!

I don't like any of the supposed "self learning" modes on EBC's. I've never been able to get it to work properly even on a AVCR. Are you sure theres no leaks mate? Might be worth making a little pressure tester to just make sure, they come in very handy and are pretty cheap to make.

Only one way to find out mate and thats to try it. But I would be very cautious.

Save your money on an oil temp gauge, not really needed unless you go hammering around a track ;) I would go with the programmable management route, much safer, much better drive.

What EBC is it? Most learning modes on EBC's are shit and don't work. Is your external gate spring second hand? Don't forget they do become weak over time. What external gate is it? Is it a genuine copy?

You want the largest gap possible without blowing out the spark.

You can mod the N/A one, but you will have to remove the baffle plate inside to drill through accurately.

It may well be able to, but you would have to find out what map sensor it is that it is able to read. As we know these plug and plays are mapped to different turbo's, setups etc, so on a general I would say it wouldn't be safe to run anything past the stock map sensors limits. It could also depend on what they used as "load", they may have used MAP as load, or RPM as load. That no one will probably ever know.

x2, I highly doubt it would be very accurate when getting to the map sensors limits. The ecu is likely to be scaled as an exact copy of the standard unit. So won't be possible to swap to a 3 bar map sensor and expect it to read it.

lol "td04 is a massive turbo for this car" god, I would love to see what they think with a gt28/30 slapped on a 4E Car looks like shit, do agree with them with the bov, I think the new versions of the SSQV sounds too girly, I've got the version 1 and it sounds so manly and beefy.

It is probably due to balancing. Some material has been removed to ensure that it is within tolerence by the looks of things.

Them results are fine mate. A difference between 14.5psi/ 1 bar is the maximum between cylinders in pressure difference.

I wouldn't advise running standard size 74mm pistons, as by the time the bore is honed, you could be looking at quite a large clearence that will never be filled unless running on track where you will see high temps and the rate of expansion of the metal changes. I wouldn't waste money getting the head ported and polished unless your looking to run a very big setup. People have run 300whp on a stock head with no problems, so flow is not a problem.

Coolant temp sensor can do this. Swap it for a known working one with someone close by or something mate