AdamB

Sounds like your getting a better education than I did! I went to college and virtually learned fuck all, I came from a family with experience in tuning cars so I had a lot of knowledge beforehand, I've learnt most of my knowledge through reading and looking into things myself. Take it with a pinch of salt is my advice, always be prepared to learn more ;)

It makes me laugh because they apprently are open 24 hrs Not the only one whos had problems contacting them, and for the same reasons is why i'm debating things. John keeps saying "next week" and it turns out to be 2 months later...

Its not necessarily to reduce boost creep, you can get many different size of EG, they are designed to hold peak pressure much much better, much more accurately. They work exactly the same as an internal gate, the only real difference being where they are positioned, an EG is welded from a flange off of the exhaust manifold.

You want the intake manifold runners to be slightly smaller than the cylinder head ports, this is to increase air velocity as it enters the cylinder head. The reverse for the exhaust side, its good to have a manifold with larger ports than that of the cylinder head as this reduces back pressure. So as for port matching, I would go with the above style setup I wouldn't recommend running a 1.9mm tbh, it will make the car very lazy off boost, and since the 1.3 doesn't have a great deal of torque either you will only be going backwords. I wouldn't go no more than a 1.4mm headgasket. The problem lies with the mapper in my opinion, you could run a complete stock setup and easily make 250bhp, the problem is mappers want to induce as much ignition timing into the map as possible, but as soon as det occurs they reduce the timing. This is wrong, you need to understand what causes detonation and that is excessive cylinder pressure, ie sparking at the wrong time! The way to combat this is to retard the valve timing, but since this is time consuming, tuners don't do this. Retarding the valve timing reduces cylinder pressure, you want to keep as much ignition timing in the map as possible! The main problem with the E series engine is that valve timing is NOT able to be independently adjusted between intake and exhaust, since these engines are not a true twin cam design.

I don't get that in my GT, must be a EP91 thanggg

You've made a good decision! Don't forget to measure everything and make sure its within tolerence, as you don't want to be rebuilding it again a month later.

It can be done, and you can write your own software onto it if you know how to write code, so the language barrier isn't a problem as the chip will be simply completely wiped, I know as i've done it at uni. But like others said, its not really worth the risk of an ecu thats worth money, when you can buy a programmeable management system for the same price really. For a technical exercise, why not, but you won't be really any better off as it will be a pain to map. Chances are to get some data you would have to have a programmable system in place to figure a map, then transfer all that data onto the EPROM.

I've just got the stock parcelshelf with some 6x9's on it, the rest is stripped though. Does look a little odd, but need to have some tunes!

You will be fine at stock compression ratio mate, but if its going for a rebuild you can always chuck in a thicker metal headgasket like a 1.2mm. It's not the rods that are the problem, its the weak piston ringlands, and since you would have rectified this problem you'll be good to go mate. Just make sure to run some good bottom end bearing shells ;) Also I wouldn't bother touching the head, just clean out all the carbon shit from it and leave it at that

Might as well save up mate, will be worth the wait

Meister offer loads of different spring rates and they are not badly priced Check here... http://www.cyberspeeds.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=163&products_id=362 Although only for coilovers.

Thanks for that mate, puts my mind at ease for my build lol.

If you want launch control, may as well go for an EMU as it will be much safer, and you'll also gain a few extra ponies ;)

Quality beast Alan! Glad you stuck it at it mate. You still using the stock GT gearbox?

Aslong as there is enough weld overlapping the wastegate to keep it shut it should be ok. It will be air tight when the wastegate is shut anyway mate so wouldn't worry too much about that.

Tbh mate, the cars are worth peanuts as they are, selling one that needs an engine, you may as well just give it away Fix it up, proper job and enjoy it again! No matter how long it takes it will be worth it.

^^^ HOT! Nice tan ;) Whilst your on holiday you need to get pics of others floating around ;) Go on the perve lol.

Check for 12v at the pump, if not then you could have a break in the wires, poor earth, blown fuse/relay.

I would love to go but don't have £350 spare atm! Thats just the ticket price to get in, plus travelling, hotel expense, food lol.

Think it was enginebuildermagazine that spread was in Yeah his seminar is in Swansea uni 7-9th september mate.

I thought those topics were covered in his seminars, or is that what you mean? I'm sure he's also published that in one of his books, think its "How to build horsepower".

No I don't think David compared to other filters as the video is quite old I think. But the main thing to understand is that, run with an air filter it prolongs the life of your stock and forged engine, running witouth an air filter doesn't increase performance it actually decreases it due to the quality of the air. How well will an Apexi filter air even when its clogged up with dirt? Lets face it, who can be bothered to clean the outside diameter of the filter in a solvent every month? Also our cars are used for road more often than not, you will pick up more shit on the road than you will on a race track. If he measured a teaspoon of shit in 40 mins of racing, think of how much you will collect on an hours drive on the road! Also David explained EXACTLY how the air filter worked compared to traditional type paper elements. Knowing how a component works is probably more important than the job it does.

Agreed! The blokes a genius and I don't think there are many other people out there with the knowledge he has! Wish he would post up a calender of dates/places where hes doing seminars

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1BZg6aCGd8 Watch from 4:26 onwards. Forget the engine as it's an A series, but the principle reamins the same. David Vizard with over 50 years design, development and tuning experiance with engines ;)

Warm engine and WOT ;) Sounds about right though for throttle closed, should be up around 150-160 with it open. Generally isn't that much difference between having the throttle opened or closed, its more important that the numbers read within 1 bar (14.5psi) of each other.