AdamB

ECC do a wide range of MLS gaskets, from 0.6mm right up to 1.9mm I believe. There's also the TRD which is 0.6mm but are now discontinued so will be hard to find. Cometic is another option but I'm unsure on what thickness they come in.

Item For Sale: Toad AI606 Cat 1 alarm system Item Condition & Description: Used This was removed from my GT, no wire cutting was done and all wires were traced back to maintain full length of wiring to allow a wide range of positioning for the module. It comes with the horn, bonnet trigger and also 2 key fobs. Price: £75 Pictures: Payment & Shipping Details: Delivery including in price, can be collected Item For Sale: OEM Tems speedo Item Condition & Description: Used This came out of my GT, believe to be in working order, looks in very good condition with no scratch

Only reason to change to a MLS gasket is because it takes more abuse, its able to withstand more detonation before blowing. Thickness varies the compression ratio, which imo is already too low for these engines. If it was me I would be using a 0.6mm gasket.

Not updated this for quite some time. Have been doing a fair bit over the last week. Finished off removing all the paint and sealant from the front of the car. Then I removed the dash and wiring loom Out comes the loom All out Started removing some bits from the dash loom, just a few loose wires nothing major. Also tidied up what I believe was from a turbo timer which was a right mess. Started out looking like this : And finally after removing all that gubbins looked like this : Still need to re-conne

Personally I wouldn't go any thicker than stock, 1mm compressed thickness.

Whats the spec of the car? Go thinnest as possible imo, the stock CR is way too low on these engines.

Not needed, a good oil will still maintain stability to around 125-130 degrees.

Anytime mate. I believe you can get duraglide for the mains, but only aluglide for the rod bearings. What are your oil clearences?

ACL don't offer a race series bearing for the E series engines, so just the normal OEM replacement bearings will have to suffice. Nearly every engine rebuild I know of use ACL's from stock, all the way up to Spuddy's 560bhp monster.

If you got the money and plan on keeping the car for some time, then you may as well as it will prove more reliable for further tuning.

I agree, they say to replace them to maintain a good condition crank. I understand what their saying though, I would rather be replacing a set of shells that cost £80 than replacing a crank, especially the genuine 4ET crank which seem to be getting harder to find.

Pm'd mate

No replacement for displacement. End thread.

Best thing you can do to prevent this happening is to cut down between the manifold webs , this reduces the amount of expansion and contraction the manifold undergoes during operation and also takes the stress out of the manifold

ACL recommend their bearing shells are changed every 30,000 Km anyway, but it depends how much power your running and what oil clearences you run as to what kind of service schedule you stick to. I was going to get ATI to make me up a custom lightweight crank damper pulley, but that's something I'll look into when I get closer to building the motor.

That's the worst thing to do on a turbo motor, but that's a whole different topic. I thought the cross section on the collector sat flush with the flange face on the jam mani's. Can't quite tell if it is flush from that pic though.

Harmonic dampers yes, and yes lightweight ones or more so ones that aren't damper pulleys on the crank can cause more load on the thrust washers, not much of a problem if you replace the bearing shells every so often though.

You can go two ways with tbe wiring, either make up a field harness to plug into the existing engine loom, then just add some more for any features you want etc. Or just make a whole new loom, I prefer the latter as its much neater, depends how much time you got on your hands and how anal you wanna be lol.

Ah no that'll be fine mate, you still get the good boost control, the only thing you'll lack is the annoying noise lol.

If the dump pipe/screamer pipe just routes back into the downpipe that's fine, you just don't get such a loud asbo noise. If you mean the port on the manifold collector has been re-routed back into the downpipe meaning the use of an external gate isn't possible then that may well be a bigger problem. I don't know of many people that have even tried to run a td04 at max boost on an internal gate setup, it might well even hold fine boost fine with the right actuator since the mass of gas of a 1.3 compared to a 2.0L engine is a lot less.

The Apexi I wouldn't even put on the list tbh. Another good one I've heard is the AEM, very similar to Omex I believe. Emeralds are good, if you can get a good price on one then why not

I say that, but cheap turbo's won't offer the features of something which costs 4x as much. What turbo is it your using? Ultimately it's down to the size of the wastegate hence why people go external for something larger as the stock turbine housing can't accommodate such a large size.

Motec M400 is what I have and their not cheap! lol, looking at around £2000 just for the unit itself. M4's are an older generation, can be had for around the £550 mark second hand, maybe cheaper if you get lucky. Emerald are good ecu's, been around for a long time and the software is easy to use.

Nope, none at all if the turbo is designed correctly

Would sleeve the block and not use a headgasket, what we do in F1