Jump to content

funny onion

Club Member
  • Content Count

    2434
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About funny onion

  • Rank
    Starlet Specialist
  • Birthday 02/28/1991

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    chaz2821991@hotmail.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Hull
  • Interests
    Spraying- I'm not very good but I like to try
    Welding- I'm terrible but again I like to have a go
    Wiring- I'm not bad with wiring or a soldering iron
    Pokémon- everybody secretly loves Pokémon...
    Horses- I have two horses
  • Build Thread
    97259

Recent Profile Visitors

12010 profile views
  1. Update - it was indeed a bad combination of ECU transponder, TMIM amplifier and key. Sorted now - just adding for anyone searching in the future.
  2. Yes it still does still stop running with all manner of flammable stuff sprayed in with the throttle open haha. yes I do, but I have various transponders, TMIM amplifiers and ECU’s so it could be the case I’ve mixed something up. I’ll mix and match and try to see if it makes a difference!
  3. Hello I’ve recently removed a 4EFE engine, ECu, engine and dash loom out of one of my starlets and fitted it to another. When I start the car it starts perfectly first turn of the key but as the revs drop back down to what should be idle after the initial start, it cuts out as if I’m turning the key off. It doesn’t struggle, misfire or run lumpy or anything like that, it just cuts out as if I’ve turned the key off. There are no ECU codes and it sounds and runs spot on until it just turns off, usually about 5 seconds after it fires. all fluids and sensors are present, the only thing
  4. Looking for a 96 Spec EP91 Glanza dash loom. May consider full interior loom set and full car loom set if available. Thanks
  5. Assuming you are dropping it with the gearbox on (I would); Exhaust manifold with turbo and decat, exhaust mid section, driveshafts, engine loom (unplug from ecu, pull plug through firewall and unplug all sensors etc then lift the loom out), speedo cable, gear cables, power steering pump (I usually just take belt off and move pump to top of the chassis leg out of the way), throttle cable, vac line to map sensor and BMC etc, rad and hoses. Can leave the actual FMIC most likely but you will have to remove all pipework. Obviously disconnect the battery and drop all fluids. remember to p
  6. Only advice I would give you is adding a custom element to any standard colour can make it a bitch to match in the future. Like if in the future you decide to get a different bumper or some different skirts, it may be difficult to get a spot on match. Not saying don't do it, just a heads up.
  7. Yeah I think you're right, that was just me guessing from memory haha
  8. I think the corolla 6 speed box is a C152 box? They are a direct bolt on, don't need to swap the clutch etc. Only think that needs modifying is the shifter in the car. I had to file down the inside of the plastic housing to allow the shifter room to select reverse (next to first on these boxes)
  9. I have an OEM front and 3 point OEM rear brace and a GT rear anti roll bar if you're interested.
  10. Looks great dude come a long way! would look mint with a 98 sec lip in the front! and one of my 3 point struts in the back! haha
  11. Yes but worth it when the rear is stripped out!
×
×
  • Create New...