Flaminsam

Hey Daniel how you liking epicycliycs?

Fully qualified mechanic of 10 years. Qualified to handle refrigerant and diagnose hvac systems. I also have all the usual quals that you get with working for the mod. Eqaulity and diversity etc.

it is quite easy to do really. took me literally half a hour to do. maybe with me being a mechanic had something to do with it?

To me like an earth problem. Either that or the wire that goes to the starter motor has a bad connection. Rule of thumb. Everything off should be 12-12.5v Whilst cranking voltage should drop to around 9v With engine running at idle with no load it should be around 14.4v Engine running and major power consumers on (rear demist, headlamps, wipers etc) should be no lower than 13.5v.

Piece of piss to change bud. I didn't even take my wheel off. Info the three 14mm bolts off the bottom balljoint and using a lever bar pop the shaft out of the box. Fit new seal then use the wheel as a sort of sliding hammer to pop the shaft back in the box. Be careful when refitting the shaft though. There is a round spring that sits in the seal, if you pop this off the seal will leak again.

EBay.com. The states has loads of them. Can pick up a emanage blue for around $200.

Politicians have fucked up Ireland completely. I really feel for you lads at the moment. May be worth buying a shitter till this blows over to save being car jacked. Lock away your cars lads.

My td04l starts boosting at about 2200 and is on full boost by around 3200. A td05 I have been told comes into full boost by around 4-4200.

Doubt a split hose. If the hose had split you would overboost. I would be looking at either the turbo or a boost leak.

Standard ct9?

It allows the engine crank case gas to be vented through it. Basically it catches oil so that the other side of the catch tank can go back into the inlet. Quite a dodgy thing really because your not suppost to vent crankcase gas to atmosphere. Adds to global warming or ozone depletion or something. I'm sure if you get a picky MOT tester he would fail it because you are venting it to atmosphere. :/

Bogg brothers are the shiz with carbs. Defo recommend them to anyone.

Fuck that! Clio 1.5 dci. 30 quid a year road tax and cheap as chips to insure. Can Pick up a decent one for about 1500 now too. Not to mention 60+ mpg.

Ha! I did that to my old almera clutch. Did you have to dress up the shaft again where the release bearing goes on to?

That's absolute pants. Chris moyles is a genius. Says it how it is and generally doesn't care about the critics. Bit like clarkson but on the radio. Grimmy can go suck a fart out of a dead mans corpse. That is all.

Unfortunately not. The cables for the n/a go inside a drum and have a different fitting on the end of them. The turbo models have a clevis pin and r clip design.

Quality idea!

Good call on checking the voltage to the pump. On some cars its only 9v but its ecu controlled. So its 9v for general idling and cruising but then steps up to 14v when the ecu demands more fuel. I don't think starlets have this though.

Also be careful, them carbon deposits could be holding your engine together. A lad at work ran a flush through his engine and lost compression soon after. As adam just said if the car is ran on premium unleaded then there shouldn't be much in the way of deposits. Also regular servicing helps.

As a rule of thumb I always go for if there's a difference of over 1 bar across all four cylinders there must be something wrong. Do you have access to a bore scope? That would give a better indication of the problem.

And trisk is the winner! As per auto data 216NM

Yea I thought so. If I find out I'll post it up on here.

Cheers rinse. I'm guessing the n/a torque setting will be the same? Just so I can see if its on auto data.

The black turbo mx5 with no intercooler is one of my friends. He has big plans for that. Shame I couldn't make it

Yea I usually do but just wanted to do it right. I know on the old almera that I had it was something like 230NM. :s