daniel_g

Im not slating the idea i actually like it but you are 100% gonna get oil vapour into the turbine wheel / intercooler pipes and core, right upto the throttle body and inlet. Its not the end of the world but its fact Colin mate.

If you can hear the motor working then its not the fuse. The gauze, lines, jets will be full of shit, clean them out, in that order

I remember seeing it a while ago and quite liking the idea because its a bit different to the norm. Theres a lot of debate on how and where to run the lines, some ways just create pressure in the tank. Running it that way would draw vapour back out into the induction again. Although can see this also being a debatable way of doing things with regards to engine / turbo longevity. Because all that crankcase gas which has managed to escape the engine is now getting drawn back in and mixed with the clean induction air. Any engine builders on here wanna say what they would reccommend?

Thats another ZEP Type 2 bumper!

Did you ever get a larger master cylinder?

Check the way grum glanza has done his, click the link and check the vids http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/101337-it-lives-finally/?hl=%2Bgrum+%2Bglanza

Nothing about?

Thats why i said personal preference!

Good man, hang onto it

Meisters are perfect for the roads i use, even at 16 clicks (mostly) Besides, theres not really much else of an option. Even the bilstein shocks i have on my other starlet a GT are nowhere near are good as a coilover.

Drive like a pig or drive like a fuckin boss?! Haha, Scottish country roads is where my is in its element! Bit bumpy but thats to be expected. Minus the cage, and the LSD (because 4wd and theres no front one yet)

Personal preference on a few of these, some rate them more than others. Start with new track rods and ball joints Light alloys and grippy tyres are a must So are coilovers LSD Adjustable panhard Rear anti roll bar Front and rear strut braces Polybush absolutely everything, drop link bushes, rear beam etc. Anti lift kit to adjust castor A weld in cage will properly stiffen the chassis up but not everyone wants / needs one. There are a good other few braces in the ultra racing catalogue. You can also get thicker front anti roll bars but you may find a slight increase in understeer. Its also really important to have the alignment set up ofter handling mods.

Width and offset?

Especially not whilst using a FCD

So you are just a tease then? Haha

Motorfactors sell them.

Motor factors type 54, had one for years and its never faulted, even when ive left it for months at a time quick jumpstart, drive a mile and it holds a charge. Theyre small aswell with import terminals.

Its about time there was an aftermarket starlet shifter in progress! The OEM one is pretty poor compared to other cars.. even with a short shifter and solid bushes in the cables. Whats the chances of that ever making it to life Morgey?

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/8997-ricks-tc-glanza-v/

Seeing whats about?

Should still be valid. Dont think that many people here do drags much in their starlets. I'll be back out in the 4paw in a few months, will be a far better spec

Go to page 13 of this build for pics!! Get a few names down lads

There was a 1 off carbon Livesports spolier back a few years ago, looked savage, wouldnt mind one! Carbon rear bumper and spats would be pretty cool aswell!

Ahh right i get ya. Tbh the ABS system on a starlet is shite anyway, id just get an ABS removal kit and fit better front brakes.

Its not the axle that makes it ABS its the ring on the back of the disc