JayJ

Demo car for sale ad: https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fweb.archive.org%2Fweb%2F20001018013743%2Fhttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.jam-racing.com%2Fcarsale%2Findex.htm

Their first 170hp demo car used Cusco 7-point cage https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http://web.archive.org/web/20010419215258/http://www.jam-racing.com/ep/ep.htm&usg=ALkJrhitUdVJxfc1dcCeG7-DplQXiufPmQ

Just to remind you guys can still browse their websites. There's 45 captures of the Starlet page. http://web.archive.org/web/19980101000000/http://www.jam-racing.com/pointo/ep-pointo/ep-pointo.htm Just paste the capture link to Google translate and start reading ;) https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fweb.archive.org%2Fweb%2F19980101000000%2Fhttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.jam-racing.com%2Fpointo%2Fep-pointo%2Fep-pointo.htm

I wanted to buy one, but seller refused to ship the item due its size to Finland :-(

Me and Whitestar both have FMIC's with AC. I have JAM kit, Whitestar has Ebay kit with 580mm X 210mm X 63mm core size.

Sorry, only found these

Here to help! www.race.fi/en is a local shop shipping parts internationally. They are also official D2 importer in Finland and stock most spares :-)

Contact sixonetwo.co.uk and ask for Taperpro racing steel nuts. They are not the cheapest one, but worth the money.

Good

If you have a turbo timer installed, remove it completely, as it might block the system from going in to a programming mode. Unlock the car. Climb in and close the door. Insert the key into the ignition barrel and turn the ignition ON-OFF 3 times Pull the key out of the barrel then press the button on the new fob. Locks should now cycle on, off. Insert key back into the ignition barrel and turn the ignition ON-OFF 3 times. Pull the key out of the barrel and then press the button on the new fob. Locks should now cycle on, off. The fob is now programmed to the car, just double check by pressin

Super clean and safe country, people walking with their big wallets in their back pockets and everyone are so kind and trustworthy. Tattoos are more accepted on westerners, but some places still won't accept tattoos what so ever. Check my build thread (J's Glanza) for some pics from Nagoya

It's not needed, but you will benefit of it with more precise boost control and you can set different boost levels by RPM (if your controller allows it).

The speed signal comes from the speedo to the ecu. If the speedo is not working, then there's cable, gearbox or speedo fault. If the speedo is working, then the speedo, signal wire or ecu is broken. Is your spd signal wire spliced or modified some way?

Basically ct9 hybrid has a bigger inlet and comp wheel compared to stock ct9. TD04 is a completely different turbo usually used on Subarus. CT9 hybrids are rated to 180- 250hp and TD04 210-300hp

Good choice

Race-tech hybrid http://www.race-tech.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4_2_5_8&products_id=2 or Speedvision Hybrid http://www.speedvisioncps.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=30&products_id=80

Everyday use was the reason for me, especially the winter time as the lithium battery will output more cranking amps than lead acid one in cold(-25c) weather.

There's a good info on their site: http://www.kaazusa.com/tech_faq.html http://www.kaazusa.com/80w90.html

I have this one in Glanza http://www.batteryshop.fi/product/etx24d

They are custom made and can't be bought. DIY, projector, angel eye ring and normal headlight needed.

I can only recommend a lithium battery, very light and cranking power won't drop off in any situation.

Not available as new anymore and finding a good used one can be hard too. Just go and buy Race-tech ct9 hybrid and you won't be dissapointed

Is the fork ok and not bend?

keep the steelies!