JayJ

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/66806-instagram-adds/

wow, you can buy like three Nardis with the total cost of that

I would say 80 is ok for normal driving, but it really depends the oil you use. You should check the oil tech spec for shear point. I wouldn't go over 110c as usually the oils start to become ineffective. There are some oils though that will work higher temps.

How it's done to AE86 rack: http://www.86garage.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=2822 Might help some way..?

Have you changed different oil than before? My sensor is located there too and currently it shows 40-50, because outside temp is only 0-5C.

Removing the seat will help, as you can lie down on your back, you will need a small spanner and the space is very limited, but you can get it off little by little.

Where's your sensor located?

90341-18057, genuine Toyota magnetic gearbox plug

HTC One or Sony Z2(Z3/Z4), I have been using both and can only recommend. Sony is a waterproof, so it might be that little bit ahead.

Are you sure your exhaust is not leaking and letting fresh air to the sensor? Stock lambda working properly? You can see 16-> AFR on overrun, but shouldn't be over 15 under load in any case.

Ok, I think it should have been done with input/output ports and additional ignition map then

You can setup EMU to use the launch only once. If you want to use it again, you have to activate it again with a laptop. IMO you can't make it work with a switch.

Just make a note that's not a full LSD unit like KAAZ, TRD etc, but only some parts you use to convert your existing differential to LSD, hence the "cheap" price. Morgey explained the differences very well

It equals to 24Ah lead battery, so it actually has a bigger capacity than the AGM battery(16Ah) I had even the weight is 6kg less. Lead acid batteries tend to lose cranking amps in cold, but lithium battery’s cranking power will not drop-off. It also has a microprocessor Battery Management System that monitors the charge level of each cell and balances the charge when needed. Without BMS you can't use lithium batteries in cars, because alternators aren't smart chargers. Lets say the car uses ~150watts with all the lights on(headlights, parking lights, rear lights) and thereon will drain around 12.5amps(150w/12v=12.5), so the battery should last ~2hours in theory.

Yokohamas

Glanzas have them from factory and it should be quite easy to add afterwards to N/A. Check/ask breakers section.

Clutch line also uses the same size, should be M10x1.0

I think the dyno type makes all the difference and rolling road dynos will give a much "better"(not accurate?) result as the power is calculated with many different and changing variables. My car made 145whp/147ftlb in hub dyno with Tongs CT9 for comparison.

Yeah, that's what I've done, but the LHD headlights made the front end look sh*t, as they are smaller. I've been planning to retrofit projectors to RHD housings, but haven't ordered the parts yet..

So clean and amazing build! Did you convert your headlights for right-hand traffic and if so, how did you do it?

WOW, Genuine Roys! (sorry I had to ) Rare find and the car looking nice and clean

Haha, are you ok?

Wheels have been painted and are waiting for the new 195/45 T1Rs. I would have gone with the AD08R's, but I already had bought Toyos last spring from another enthusiast, as he was selling them cheap. The car had a service today and it was done under the warranty as the water pump seal started to leak just over a year old. Last purchase came today too..from UK ;-) Nutp0rn