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Why not get the FHE ACIS? Should be more power than itb

Been following a few guys on AU Starlet Club who have opted for ITB's rather than ACIS, seems like there is more gains to be had from ITB's. Plus ACIS manifolds are going for silly money over here.

Tps wires are easy to identify with a multi meter. There is a load of info on the net if you do a quick search on it. Looking good so far

Thanks Grant, I have a link to a guide over on TGTT, which is really detailed hopefully I will get the stubbs welded on this week and get stuck into messing about with the TPS at the weekend.

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The cheapest ACIS I saw was 150. The cheapest FTE was 1400. Only engine and Turbo parts. So the ACIS isn't that expensive.

My new engine (opting for a low km 4E now as my Headgasket has failed) will be 365 which is nearly the cheapest and with only 62.000km on clocks.

But mayve in UK everything is cheaper.

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The cheapest ACIS I saw was 150. The cheapest FTE was 1400. Only engine and Turbo parts. So the ACIS isn't that expensive.

My new engine (opting for a low km 4E now as my Headgasket has failed) will be 365 which is nearly the cheapest and with only 62.000km on clocks.

But mayve in UK everything is cheaper.

I know what you mean, The ITB's cost my £60.00 and a manifold to chop up was a £10.00. The rest of the work, I'm doing my self. The ACIS would cost £150.00 and the RPM Switch and controller on top.

A 4e-fte costs £1400 in Germany? That is crazy money. You would be best getting one shipped over from the UK, you can pick a GT for that money!

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Read through this and I'm inspired to go down the itb route on my 5e, if alls well with yours, fancy making a set up for me? Will pay handsomely? :-P

Won't be a problem at all dude. Once I get things sorted with mine and see how well things go. It really isn't that expensive to do. The main hassle will be the TPS.

You will need to get a vacuum manifold to run all the vac lines though, I purchased a Blox racing one from the states, it was around £50.00 iirc.

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Really looking forward to seeing what kind of power this makes when it's up and running, love a good n/a build me ;)

Me too Phil, I hope make at lest 134bhp with a good map! A fella in the states has done a similar build except cams, but didn't have it mapped so, fingers corssed :D

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Sounds good! You can bet whatever the power it makes, it's going to be awesome fun to drive though ;)

Cheers pal.

Yeah its nippy enough at the moment, needs a good map and the fuelling set up. She isn't revving up very smoothly, but no point getting it mapped whitout the ITB's on.

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Picked up some Glanza seats courtesy of LukeSR, got them fitted on Saturday. Pic to follow.



My vacuum manifold arrived on Friday also. I have 40mm alloy piping coming to make into stubs to be welded on to the flange. So progess is being made, slowly but surely.


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You still using the 4E ECU? I read with that you don't achieve the max power on the 5E.

I made to switch to a 5e-fe ECU at the weekend. I haven't notice any difference between the 5e & 4e ECU though.

He's waiting to get the itb's on then going management to save having it mapped more than once i think

Yep, waiting until the ITB's go on and replace the piston rings. I have made my mind up and going for a Unichip, this should be within the next two months.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well just as I'm getting the car the way I want, minus the paint, everything seems to be going wrong.



The rings have completely given up now - I mean they have sh*t them selves big time, huge clouds of blue smoke.



To top things off, she has developed not one, not two, but 3 fecking oil leaks, one of which is the rear crank oil seal. So I have a lovely slipping clutch now.



So I'm really considering selling up and moving on which is a shame really. £250.00 should sort it, but I really don't have the time and/or patience any more and don't have the money to pay someone to do it.



I was also planning of fitting the ITB's this weekend, but what's the point when its not running right at.


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Id imagine the reason youve got the oil leaks is down to the rings going, you'll now have excess crank case presure so all the seals will be put under extra strain. Sort the rings and you'll prob sort half the leaks!

Just because you're at a low don't give up, let it sit for a while then crack back on when you feel like it.

Mine sat for 14 months got a 2nd car saved loads of dolla then ended up buying my 20v and some other goodies in that time. Some times good things come from letting things sit :)

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I know what you mean mate, mine sat for 18+ months while I spent my life on public transport. I really can't be going back to it.



I have the dilema of spending the money I had saved for mapping and getting it fixed and start saving again. Or split the car, cut my loses and move on.



It would be a real shame to sell it on after the time and money spent on it, but the bank account is beign sucked dry and I still need to get to work and back.



If only money grew on trees, eh?

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