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Toffs Forged 5E VF35 99Spec White V :(


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  • 1 month later...
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Rather nice update for this, Touch wood still running awesome on the VF24 And it seems plenty quick, AFRs etc perfect and its running A1


Big update is i managed to pick up a 5E For a £100 the other week and promptly began stripping it to a bare block. the first photos are when its clean and semi stripped, but it arrived complete just cut out of a car and had done 130,000 miles so was well ran in lol. took me a few hours and lots of TFR truck wash to get it how it was! It was mainly mega cheap as it was knocking when i heard it running and if you look through the photos you will see why lol. Luckily the crank is sound and will hopefully get away with a polish or worst case a slight regrind.


Promptly started ordering bits and my CC Stage 4 clutch has arrived, flywheel and the rest of the bottom end is getting ordered ASAP then its all off to the machine shop to be balanced/polished etc


Considering an AASCO flywheel but a bit put off the idea now so going to have a brand new 3ETE One proffesionally lightened and drilled



Hopefully the spec of the engine is going to be insane, with a high spec head dropped on so the whole engine copes with anything i throw at it in the future. it wont be cheap but if its going to be in bits i want to do it properly! 4AGE Studs, cams PNP etc.



Also you engine gurus what do you think of the bottom end? Its a 5E Stamped crank and what looks like the thicker rods, i thought UK 5efes had 3E Stamped cranks and tiny rods?


Am i one of the lucky ones with the 5EFHE Bottom ends that pop up now and again?



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Thanks for looking



TT


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You are correct mate. The FHE was marked with 5E and had the thicker rods. I may be wrong but I think possibly the earlier EFE engines came with the thicker rods also.


Although none of it really matters if your going forged, I would be checking the duration and lift of the cams though :thumbsup:


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Yessss thats a win then. And i thought the crank was of a better quality like the 4EFTE Vs 4EFE, the FTE Crank being better? Same as 5EFE Vs 5EFHE, the FHE Crank being of a better finish etc?


And yeh im going too, specs will be kicking about somewhere are they not?


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Hmm I dunno about being better tbh, plenty of people have used the 3E crank and still been reliable.



Specs for the cams are :


EFE -


Intake Opens - 2 BTDC


Exhaust Opens - 3 BBDC


Intake Closes - 42 ABDC


Exhaust Closes - 2 ATDC


Intake Lift - 7.2mm


Exhaust lift - 7mm


Intake Duration - 224 degrees


Exhaust Duration - 228 Degrees



FHE -


Intake Opens - 4 BTDC


Exhaust Opens - 46 BBDC


Intake Closes - 56 ABDC


Exhaust Closes - 2 ATDC


Intake Lift - 8mm


Exhaust Lift - 7.3mm


Intake Duration - 240 degrees


Exhaust Duration - 228 degrees


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  • 2 weeks later...

Looking good so far, sounds like it's going to be a mega build.

My 5E-FE has a 5E marked crank too, that came from a UK spec Paseo. It's definitely a 5E-FE though. :s

Weird one then, mabye a bit hit and miss lol

Nice little update today, Rods and pistons arrived so got them assembled straight away and took a few photos

The engine is also completely stripped, and i have began the tiring process of porting, boring, deburring etc etc off the block, and of the head. Some of the casting is shocking on these blocks, bottom end especially on the oil ways to the head, the head is miles off from the headgasket etc so i have spent about 9hours so far cleaning everything up!

Few photos below.

Boxes :D

http://s280.photobucket.com/user/thetoffinator/media/20130724_202351_zpsfc1f81f1.jpg.html'>20130724_202351_zpsfc1f81f1.jpg

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Comparision of standard and forged

http://s280.photobucket.com/user/thetoffinator/media/20130724_204956_zps16668405.jpg.html'>20130724_204956_zps16668405.jpg

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Fitting the pistons to the rods, Even kept the piston circlips all facing the same way up lol

http://s280.photobucket.com/user/thetoffinator/media/20130724_211701_zps7208e16b.jpg.html'>20130724_211701_zps7208e16b.jpg

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And now a few pics of the cleaning/deburring/porting, Stupidly time consuming task this!!

Intake side, notice the weird shape of the 2 centre ports, dont understand why there like this!

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Exhaust side, took a large amount of material out of these as they were very poor, especially on one port for each chamber, the opposite valve was terrible so i matched them up. (If you get me lol)

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Head before and after

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Block before and after

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Bottom end, Oil ways etc before and after

http://s280.photobucket.com/user/thetoffinator/media/20130724_214929_zpsad61516c.jpg.html'>20130724_214929_zpsad61516c.jpg

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Thanks for looking!

TT

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Looking good

Thanks dude

Few more updates on the engine here, Got the valves out ready to be prepped etc.

This also allows me to give the head some more porting, especially on the exhaust side, what a load of shite that side is! So much restriction again. Will give it a few more hours tommorow and put some photos up.

Here are 2 from tonight, Head still needs a real good deburring in the top, and a chemical clean/Blast

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Thanks for looking

TT

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  • 2 weeks later...

Few more updates, Nothing major parts wise yet as im still saving to buy it all at once.


Chemically cleaned the head, finished porting bar polishing the exhaust side and gasket matched everything.


Also picked up another inlet which i have ported and gasket matched, Deburred and cleaned up the casting on as well as removed a few unnecesary bits, cleaned all the throttle body, sensors and knifedged the inlet to it also and matched the TB to the inlet


Valve springs are also here, sticking with stock 4EFTE springs as im not going to be revving this to oblivion lol. Started smoothing the fuel rail also, On that note im guessing the fuel pressure regulators are different on the 5efes to 4eftes? Will i need to swap mine over when i do the conversion?



Here are a few pics anyway


Before


Head before and after. Removed all the horrible casting marks and smoothed out the poor oil ways etc


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After


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Fuel rail before


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After


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Intake Manifold and TB photos


Before


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After


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TB


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Few head shots


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ValveTrain to go in, needs a good clean first mind


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Current state of the bench lol


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On another note it passed its MOT last week, thank god after i realized it was 3 months out of date... Ooops.


My Competion Clutch stage 4 6 puck has also arrived:)



Still loving the car just a few niggly problems annoying me and i cant wait to get the engine and everything in!



TT


Edited by The Toffinator
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Good work dude. Are you just deburing the head or actualy porting it out bigger? Is an artform n sicence to porting, need to equaly balence the chambers etc not just eat what looks right from em all :( is why pnp heads cost soooo much money to have done :(


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looking good mate nice to see you doing your own porting :D

Thanks mate, its a royal pain in the arse mind its still not all finished hence why it looks slightly rough, need to go over it all with sandpaper/wet & dry etc yet also a few more hours needed!

Good work dude. Are you just deburing the head or actualy porting it out bigger? Is an artform n sicence to porting, need to equaly balence the chambers etc not just eat what looks right from em all :( is why pnp heads cost soooo much money to have done :(

Thanks shorty, And a bit of both mate. I understand what you mean its a proper art, Inlet side all i have done is gasket matched and very slightly opened the inlet out and removed the poor casting in front of the injectors, However exhaust side i have took a fair bit of material out evenly, and after the valve seat the main part people port is the big lip sticking out, so thats gone and smoothed now.

If i was going mental and aiming for massive ports i wouldnt be attempting it myself, But what i have done so far is more accurate and even than the factory toyota ports, especially on the exhaust they were all over the shop. Pressures and flow in each cylinder must have been a lot different.

Thanks:)

Edited by The Toffinator
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Looking good mate, got a lot of sludge build up around the valve seats. What did you clean it with?



Everyone has their own way of porting, so no one real way is best. I've seen plenty of heads that come from a shop that look good but don't do fuck all.


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Looking good mate, got a lot of sludge build up around the valve seats. What did you clean it with?

Everyone has their own way of porting, so no one real way is best. I've seen plenty of heads that come from a shop that look good but don't do fuck all.

Thanks adam. And yeh i will have to take it back to work to clean it again. We have a big parts washer and i used TFR on it. Im going to polish up the exhaust side and combustion chamber anyway so it will have to go back, give it a clean by hand this time before it goes in.

And yeh seems to be a common way of doing these heads looking at everyone elses, just hope im copying everyones properly haha

nice build toff !! that 5e will give that vf24 some more bottom end grunt. perfect for when you hit the track next time :)

Thanks! Hopefully will give it a healthy dose of torque especially with the compression, its a bit lazy at the moment and peaky for short tracks!

TT

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Gutted to hear that mate :( lucky you have that spare engine!

Thanks liam, And i know just a shame it wasnt a month or so down the line!

Sounds like the typical chicken leg glanza rods failing yet again, bad times mate :(

How far away are you from assembling the 5E?

Yep thats what im thinking adam. Just confused to why it let go at such low load really, Oh well!

And quite far off, so i will be lending a bit of money of my dad to get it assembled asap dude

Aaahh that's shit dude, hope I don't get the gynx of the spare engine

I know dude:( And i know its typical, i did say yesterday i was getting sick of driving it back to work and back and i want to do a load of work to it and get the engine in, I think it heard me and failed on me lol

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Take a look here bud


http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?35344-Con-Rods-Gt-V-Glanza-Pix&highlight=glanza



Nothing in conrete, but I don't think it's the rods themselves to blame, I think its something to do with the big ends, either poor oil supply, spun bearing, or just the fact the journals aren't all that wide and being able to spread the load efficiently.



If you get the time pull the engine apart and do a bit of CSI on it :)


Edited by AdamB
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