maddox710 Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Probably jus a little condensation in the crank case mixing with oil vapor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patches Posted January 30, 2019 Author Share Posted January 30, 2019 A few updates I fitted the fuel pressure sensor on the return line, after the regulator. This is the completely wrong place to put it! I need to move this to the feed line, I switched to using traditional fuel equation for the time being and can now run boost The mayo was just condensation from sitting for a long time so no need to panic there. The cars getting used a lot despite loads of wee jobs left to do in terms of tidying up. Road tuning is pretty hard with traffic and my limited free time so I've not completed the mapping yet. Need to set aside a full day and borrow a mate to finish this. May hire a dyno depending on free cash. And I got these delivered the other day Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patches Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 Got the car booked in to get the new wheels fitted and got an alignment (it badly needed the camber sorted) and decided to get corner weighting done at the same time as it wasn't much extra. Total car weight is 957kg which isn't too bad. The car handles much better now as you can imagine, no longer feels like it handles turning one way better than the other. Really impressed. How it's sitting now, really happy with how the wheels look. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Danza Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Did you manage to get the Tacho to work in the end? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patches Posted April 4, 2019 Author Share Posted April 4, 2019 On 3/28/2019 at 9:58 PM, Danza said: Did you manage to get the Tacho to work in the end? Not had the time to look at it again. My next step was to run my own wiring from the ECU to the plug at the clocks as at the moment i'm using the original wiring but i've either wired into the wrong place or its not suitable for the low current. Got a list the size of my arm of things to sort before I get to that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
youah Posted April 26, 2019 Share Posted April 26, 2019 Just read your Thread. Looks really nice. I have a Question tho. How did u connect the TPS? Do you got any pictures of it? Would help me out alot. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patches Posted May 1, 2019 Author Share Posted May 1, 2019 On 4/26/2019 at 10:29 PM, youah said: Just read your Thread. Looks really nice. I have a Question tho. How did u connect the TPS? Do you got any pictures of it? Would help me out alot. Cheers Cheers man. I don't have any pictures of mine but I did get the idea myself from Phil's buildhttp://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/71206-ep82-gt-ccm-demo-take-2/?page=6 Wiring wise I followed the Link G4+ help files. It's quite easy to fit, the glanza throttle body has 2 holes where you need to tap threads in to mount the skyline TPS. I had to cut a bit off the pole part you mount the TPS to but other people used washers to space the TPS away from the throttle body Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 On 3/28/2019 at 9:58 PM, Danza said: Did you manage to get the Tacho to work in the end? Its very simple to do, bypass the resistor which sits on the IG- circuit of the cluster. Set the duty to drive it in the Link and you can have key on swoop etc too. Ive done it a couple of times and never had an issue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patches Posted May 30, 2019 Author Share Posted May 30, 2019 On 5/14/2019 at 5:28 PM, RobSR said: Its very simple to do, bypass the resistor which sits on the IG- circuit of the cluster. Set the duty to drive it in the Link and you can have key on swoop etc too. Ive done it a couple of times and never had an issue. Think my issue is I've wired it into a plug near the ECU which I tested with a multimeter and appeared to go to the correct pin on the clocks but I'm going to wire directly to the clock when I have time, this is a low priority. So I've got some dyno time booked in less than a month to map this myself on an actual dyno which will make life much easier than trying to do it on the road. I'll actually be able to map the ignition tables properly as well as I'll be able to see the torque changing in real time. The guy who owns the dyno has happily agreed to help me listen for knock using my Link Knockblock as I'm not 100% confident my ears are up to the task. Also got this little lot to replace the wax stat. Got the Toyota gasket, Ford Mondeo Idle Control Valve and gasket and plug and pins to suit. Just need to scan the gaskets and create a cad file for an aluminium adapter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted May 30, 2019 Share Posted May 30, 2019 1 hour ago, Patches said: Think my issue is I've wired it into a plug near the ECU which I tested with a multimeter and appeared to go to the correct pin on the clocks but I'm going to wire directly to the clock when I have time, this is a low priority. Ah ok yes, that will be your problem, you need to wire it directly to the clocks as they are feed from the Coil, then bypass the resistor. When you get the clocks out its quite easy to see/do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patches Posted May 30, 2019 Author Share Posted May 30, 2019 7 minutes ago, RobSR said: Ah ok yes, that will be your problem, you need to wire it directly to the clocks as they are feed from the Coil, then bypass the resistor. When you get the clocks out its quite easy to see/do. Way ahead of you Rob! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted May 30, 2019 Share Posted May 30, 2019 Ahhhh there you go then Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patches Posted June 20, 2019 Author Share Posted June 20, 2019 Finally got the car mapped. Shout out to Chris at Dyna Tune for holding my hand while I mapped it myself. Big thanks to Stu on here as well for all his help getting me started with a base map and all the advice! So it made 138 hp at the hubs on low boost 0.7 bar and 184 hp at the hubs at 1.2 bar. Pretty happy with that. Works out around 211 at the crank so it's no slouch! Going to just enjoy the car for a while now. Sort the tacho as well as I'm repeatedly hitting the limiter haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patches Posted August 25, 2021 Author Share Posted August 25, 2021 (edited) Overdue update. Car is still going strong, it sat off the road for about 14 months with lockdown, got it back on the road earlier this year and fixed a load of wee issues. Horn wasn't working so got a replacement airbag squib for £11 off eBay. Top tip the same part is fitted to 94-00 Rav4 so can be had quite cheap. Windscreen washers were blocked and couldn't unblock them so fitted Yaris washers with the fan spray pattern 85381-52300 Fitted rivnuts for the front bumper brackets for easier removal/fitting Fixed a coolant leak Fitted Bosch 550cc EV14 injectors Things to do: Service Replace turbo oil feed line which is leaking Replace broken door handle Wire up tacho Got a Radium DMR fuel pressure regulator coming so I will finally be able to tune the car with the modelled fuel equation Here is the car as its stands now I'll be pulling out the wiring loom to modify and add some new wires for fitting this... Edited August 25, 2021 by Patches Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snails ep91 Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 this looks like a really well thought out build. good work. can i asky why did you go down the route of the mondeo ICV? did you have idle control issues? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 nice build. keep up the great work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patches Posted September 7, 2021 Author Share Posted September 7, 2021 (edited) On 9/1/2021 at 2:19 PM, snails ep91 said: this looks like a really well thought out build. good work. can i asky why did you go down the route of the mondeo ICV? did you have idle control issues? Thanks, yeah my wax stat is on its way out. Cutting out once up to temp dropping the clutch at lights or needing the throttle opened on hot starts to keep it from stalling. I've set up idle ignition control in the Link ECU which has helped for now but got a prototype for the adapter coming in the next few weeks. I'm collecting a load of parts for the Fury, most of it is here but still waiting on some bits Bosch donut knock sensor - #0261231006 AMP Connector B and pins USCAR injector plugs so I can replace the denso > USCAR adapters Spec55 and Spec44 wire Heat shrink VEMS VR to HALL speed sensor divider - this is necessary for using the ABS sensors for speed as the Link G4+ Fury can't handle the high tooth count over a certain speed. LSU 4.9 connector to wire directly in, will be selling the Link CAN Lambda shortly Out comes the Atom, not 100% happy with the ignition and injector fused relays here, it works but could have been much tidier. I fitted the Fury into this gutted standard ECU and it took up the whole space so I've tucked these up next to the airbag for now. Got a speed sensor for the gearbox, it's a Brantz BR3. 4 pulses per revolution, hopefully it provides a decent speed input to compare against a rear undriven wheel. I stupidly removed my from ABS sensors and loom when fitting the Link as I removed the ABS for the car a long time ago. Should have kept it in hindsight. Swapping over to the Fury was really simple just load the same map from the Atom and change the temp inputs to have a 1k Ohm pull up resistor (this is hardwired on the Atom but configurable on Fury) and in my case move the CAN wires from connector A to B as the pinout is slightly different for connector A on both ECU's. I will remove the can wires once I get the wideband wired directly. After I fitted the Fury this happened... So I had wired it correctly years ago using a spare ignition output but perhaps that output on the Atom can't support the tacho, not sure, ah well got a working tacho now. Edited September 8, 2021 by Patches Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patches Posted December 8, 2021 Author Share Posted December 8, 2021 My noisy clutch release bearing is properly fucked now. Makes a massive screeching sound when I engage the clutch and it's not so happy about selecting gears! I'm just trying to figure out what to do here is some background to my issues: I got a LSD gearbox back in 2013 but have no idea if its a plate LSD was just told its a TRD one I also fitted a second hand TRD clutch at the same time (probably should have just fitted a new one) The garage I used didn't tell me to fit a new clutch release bearing, I've since learned this is best practice when fitting a clutch. It's been a bit noisy since fitting in 2013 but wasn't going to pay to have the box off again at the time. I asked opie oils which oil to use and they recommended Fuchs Titan Race Syn 5 which says on the Fuchs website its not suitable for synchromesh gearboxes haha! Not ideal. The gearbox has never been as smooth as the one I removed and it's occasionally crunched into 2nd or 3rd when driving the car hard. This could be an issue with the release bearing, clutch, syncros, the oil etc... A good few years of crunching when changing the gears has me worried about the condition of the gearbox now or how long it will last. I have my original gearbox stored in my parents garage... stupidly without any oil or anything plugging up the driveshaft holes. It's been sat there since 2013 so I'm going to need to open the box and see if it's been damaged with rust from moisture entering it. I think I'm going to remove the LSD gearbox on the car, open that up and inspect the LSD and generally see how it look inside. That way I will know what oil I need and if it's worth just repairing any damage. I'm then going to open my original box which has sat in the garage and if by magic its rust free I'm going to order the seal kit and all new bearings and have it reconditioned and the LSD fitted. If it's rusty then I'll probably have to scrap it which is a real shame. Then I'll fit a new Exedy Organic stage 1 clutch at the same time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BMX-RIG Posted December 14, 2021 Share Posted December 14, 2021 I know what your issue could be with the box. My gearbox started going noisy which i put down to clutch release bearing. Upon removal the centre spline on the trd clutch had worn loose so that got replaced with an excedy stage 1. Bearing was fine but new bearing fitted along with a new clutch and the noise was still there. It was some of the shaft bearings in the gearbox in the end. New bearings in the gearbox and the noise completely went. Not only that the gearbox now feels the best its ever felt. Engagement is perfect and the difference really was night and day. TRD diff in my gearbox also and think its just harsher on the bearings over time prematurely wearing them out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patches Posted December 15, 2021 Author Share Posted December 15, 2021 19 hours ago, BMX-RIG said: I know what your issue could be with the box. My gearbox started going noisy which i put down to clutch release bearing. Upon removal the centre spline on the trd clutch had worn loose so that got replaced with an excedy stage 1. Bearing was fine but new bearing fitted along with a new clutch and the noise was still there. It was some of the shaft bearings in the gearbox in the end. New bearings in the gearbox and the noise completely went. Not only that the gearbox now feels the best its ever felt. Engagement is perfect and the difference really was night and day. TRD diff in my gearbox also and think its just harsher on the bearings over time prematurely wearing them out. Ah cheers for the reply! Yeah when the box is off and open I'll be replacing all the bearings anyway for piece of mind. I think the clutch release bearing looks quite rusty anyway having a look at the original image I got sent back in 2013. Thinking the plan is to get both gearboxes rebuilt with all new bearings and synchros (if necessary). That is of course if the sorted box is worth saving. I hope it is, will open it up and have a look over the next month or so. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 (edited) Getting the internals super polish finished has so many great benafits + my starlet box is really very quite after polishing. I'm very impressed with it. After alot of research I'm using Volvo hgv gear oil. It's extremely durable. Does not seem to be affected by temps (great cold as well as hot), as well as extremely long long life. 100k oil changes. transmission oil SAE80W-90, 97305 sorry a mistake with the part number as pointed out by claymore, The oil I used was sae50 part number to come soon. Edited December 17, 2021 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 41 minutes ago, Sam44 said: Getting the internals super polish finished has so many great benafits + my starlet box is really very quite after polishing. I'm very impressed with it. After alot of research I'm using Volvo hgv gear oil. It's extremely durable. Does not seem to be affected by temps (great cold as well as hot), as well as extremely long long life. 100k oil changes. transmission oil SAE80W-90, 97305 part number: 85116240 Who did you use for superfinishing? Nice updates on the ECU side too @Patches 👍 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 (edited) I am quite fortunate my place of work does alot. There not accessible to the general public. If you search around there are more and more companies doing it. Also you can get ceramic beeds your self it's not a complex process. We have always called it ceramic bead polishing/hardening it's been around for awhile now. Edited December 17, 2021 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Claymore Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, Sam44 said: Getting the internals super polish finished has so many great benafits + my starlet box is really very quite after polishing. I'm very impressed with it. After alot of research I'm using Volvo hgv gear oil. It's extremely durable. Does not seem to be affected by temps (great cold as well as hot), as well as extremely long long life. 100k oil changes. transmission oil SAE80W-90, 97305 part number: 85116240 Just make sure you get the right oil classification for the box. Some of the results for SAE80W-90, 97305 show equivalent oils as GL-1 which isn't suitable. Is it suitable for LSD boxes? I know that helical and plate types differ. I've always had good results from Redline products in non-lsd gearboxes if it helps. 3 hours ago, RobSR said: Who did you use for superfinishing? Nice updates on the ECU side too @Patches 👍 Trevstar has had his gears superfinished, might be able to help. Edited December 16, 2021 by Claymore Added clarity. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 (edited) Yeh sorry it was a sae50 (good spot thanks). The oil put up was an equiverlant oil for the volvo shift gearbox. A quick search on the gearbox At2612d which is my reference. let me dig out the part number in my documents. Sorry patch about the compents on the build thread. Edited December 16, 2021 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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