morgey

Just got some bits. Quick replies, well packaged and tracked delivery. Top lad cheers

Put them up to about 20 front and 15-16 rear for track. Its a much smoother surface than on road so you can get away stiffer. I wouldnt worry about camber for one session

This was in my passengers footwell glued to the floor. Wasnt very professionally installed. Not like yours has proper brackets and everything

Looks a bit different from my levin one. Cd changer and other stuff etc Soo many wires!!

Gutted. Should have bought a micra they change without:P But seriously matey boy was right you'd stuff yourself up if you got rear ended. A cars replacable you or your back isnt

Stuck in park? Whats wrong with neutral?

Yeah you tried it with the gearbox on there? Im assuming you'll have to cut the firewall away and rebuild the tunnel abit?

Yeh friction should be. Almost any toyota 212mm friction plate should work. but I dont know if the rwd flywheels are deeper or anything or if you could use the later 212mm f/w from a post 90 4age. I think your main task atm is getting it in and running then worry about thar stuff later lol

Yes afaik. 8 bolt cranks on all. There is 2 different clutch sizes though. Earlier are 200mm which I think 86's use and from smallport onwards had 212mm clutches. Not sure if the f/wheels are interchangable between fwd and rwd platforms though.

Blocks are interchangable between heads. They do about 4 different blocks and 4 different heads iirc 3 rib. Very early bigport tvis engines 40mm main journals. (Everything after these were 42mm) 7 rib later bigport tvis engines. (87ish to 90) 7 rib small port non tvis (has oil squirters under pistons) 90-92ish 7 rib 20v. Sump has different bolt pattern to 16v all 20v have oil squirters. Then you get the 4agze but they use the same block as the year they were produced but have different internals.

Lol if you look on the inlet side of the block theres reinforcing ribs running vertically. Early 4a's onky had 3 later had 7. They are stronger and can handle more boost.

Want a 7 rib block? ;)

Right this is for the drivers seat. Obvs passengers would be opposite and excuse the mess its been an open shed 3 or 4 years. Rear left. Drill out spot weld spin bracket 90degress Bend bracket so hole is vertical then reinforce once happy with position. Rear right was untouched. Just with the bolt hole stretched Front right is the same. Front left needs to be rotated inwards slightly. I think theres some locating pegs that need removing but thats about it.

Id need to rebuild my 16v first haha

Id say so. On the button mine had like a 3mm bar half way around it. That pushed agaisnt the boss/edge of the wheel and acted as the earth. Put the wire on one spade and touch the frame of the button on something metal. If it sounds try it on the other one, hopefully that shouldnt sound unless you press the button.

Drill out the spot welds on the feet. Rotate and bend the rear left (driver seat) twist the front too slightly and enlarge the holes. Camt remember the rear rhs. Wasnt too bad but we did weld them back in place and reinforce the feet as we cut grooves in them to help bend them. They sit quite far forward so if you're lanky youd be better off with different seats (im 5'9ish and was just right) Also when you slide them forward they catch the carpet on the exhaust tunnel. I've still got one seat here i can get pictures of the feet if you want as they are mega comfy seats.

On mine it earthed itself out with the little metal bracket around the horn. One spade connector is connected to earth (same as that metal bracket thing) so if its connected to that it will sound as soon as it comes in contact with the wheel. The other went through the button so that you had to press the button for it to sound. But you dont need to connect the other to anything.

Uurrrrrmmeeehhhhhhguuuurrrrdddddd Actually hate you so much right now! Was seriously contemplating this the other day! Lol

I cant wait, will be a nice boost from whats probably 80hp at best now to 155-160 and a nice short ratio 6 speed box to keep it revving away when having some fun in it But Im keeping it completely stock other than a stainless cat back that I got for 100 notes and a hks panel filter that was in my trueno. So to the untrained eye it should look like a factory engine

Look for a Yaris sr backbox. Same tip and can be modded to fit our cars

I just checked the width of the speedlines an they're only 6J So even heavier Also just been looking at some of the other markings. Speedlines are made from Aluminium, silicon and magnesium . Theres also a G at the beginning of the marking but not sure what thats for lol

9.5kg Speedline Safari (OEM SR) 15x6.5