RobSR

Yes Zisco inlet and the cheapy EBay like TB that people have on them. Good stuff tho, let us know how you get on, should be fairly easy to implement.

Its a good idea and something i was going to look at before going DBW, that said it depends how picky you are. The last couple of starlets ive had on the dyno with aftermarket TB, no Wax Stat and no ICV still idle fine at 1000rpm as you control it with ignition. Not perfect, but as said depends how particular you are. It would be more important for people with secondary load on idle such as turning AC on, but again most have removed this anyway.

Good news mate

They are as reliable as the person that puts it together..

Check the base map on the ME221 as last time I checked it was wrong, also be prepared that you may have to take a tooth off the trigger wheel in the dizzy too.

Its being used for hillclimb - im trying to get him to do Ten of the Best however, so then he wont have a fuel restriction and we can turn it up a little more

Yup customer has a dog box going in next week Then we will be back out to setup the TC and flatshift/shift cut etc.

The final figures are in for our EFR turbo kit after getting back on the dyno this week. Quick spec overview is: Fiske spec 4EFTE forged engine / Fiske Borgwarner EFR Turbo kit inc. 3" Exhaust / Syvecs ECU / ID1000's / Fiske spec 272 Cam. We managed 404whp/460 flywheel hp at 1.8 Bar of boost. Enjoy! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwC4v_aO79A

As said was very sorry to hear this mate after the last min efforts that went in to get it ready for the dyno! Glad you caught it before anything else too serious got damaged. You can space the oil relief valve slightly too when you put it back in.

If you have a competent welder you can get the cracks welded back up as it’s an Ali head. That said you could source a good second hand head for not a lot of money.

Yes you will still leave the wiring there. Connect the necessary wires you need from the original ECU loom to the Monsoon. Its the small plug that runs in the chassis loom (16 pin) You need vBatt, FP relay, EML, Speed signal etc from this plug.

If you have a Link Monsoon, remove the original Toyota one unless your car is an Auto.

The skyline one Ryan mentioned above does.

Id avoid an Atom on a boosted car personally if you can, only has open loop boost control so very limited. Like you say you then dont' have much I/O either but it does work. You can use a switch type, open/closed TPS as the main load axis is MAP, however again, its not recommended as the majority of the other strategies work of TPS %, so you really want to change to a variable TPS.

Well you will need all the key components for an EFI system to run, trigger inputs, map, tps, temps, injectors, coils etc etc, but they are easy to work out from the ECU pinouts online. You can use the dizzy if you like, however if going standalone its worth swapping to COP, namely for knock control id say, however there are plenty other benefits too.

Yes a few people are running them in Starlets. Capable ECU for the money with good features out the box.

Look forward to seeing it

Hopefully that sorts it for you. If not report back

If you go for uprated Magencore ones they will be around £100.00 but worth it imo. That said you may find a used set on here / the starlet pages on FB. Toyota for Rotor Arm and Dizzy cap - not massively expensive items.

Try Midland Turbo's

https://www.plxdevices.co.uk/

This man is on the money. Id personally avoid AEM and have had mixed experience with Innovate.

Glad to see you’re bringing her back to life!

Shit me mate here he is! Never thought I’d see you pop up on here again!

There is a guide on here for fitting a S2000 start button. Have a search and you’ll find it.