RobSR

Without butchering the bumper there isn’t loads of options unless you get creative unfortunately. The Blitz / Autobahn style ones can be ok be sometimes you need to remove the crash bar. If you make up new brackets you can squeeze a HDi one in without taking too much of the bumper out. Best option is to get one custom made but then the cost goes up.

Not looking or you are looking? We can supply New Turbosmart gates if required!

They look similar to Scat, but aren’t quite. I always opt for Scat as they run the larger 3/8 ARP not the smaller 5/16.

Love this mate, cracking work

All the best with the build! Post up the progress

The numbers are for the splines like already said. EP91 n/as don’t have ABS so you’d have to swap your ABS ring on to them. Just buy the correct Glanza ones from ID Workz if it is CV. If it’s ‘howling’ like you say it could actually be a wheel bearing. If you’re driving say down a dual carriageway and change lanes, is the noise more noticeable going left to right or right to left for example?

I see! Look forward to seeing things progress Whats next on the list?

1 x kit left in stock on the shelf! Treat yourself this Christmas!

Hopefully you can get the numbers up with a new IC. What’s the rest of the spec? How come you decided to run 560cc injectors?

Its not they don't like to rev, they don't rev as nicely in my opinion. At 8000rpm 4e piston speed is apprx 4062 fpm, a 5e is 4566 fpm, so a noticeable apprx. 5mph if converted. (or 12% quicker v 4e) This is why all high rev'ing engines have a very short stroke. Look at F1 engines for example, usually the stroke is half the bore. a CA 's piston speed at 20000rpm is just over 5000 fpm and that was deem'd crazily high. There is pro's and con's to both @Healey so decide how you want to drive the car, then choose the engine, i look at the physics/science not just the 'it feels ok'.

That is one of the issues with our Toyota ECUs there isn't really an easy/cheap option like there is with chipping a Honda ECU. You could try an adjustable FPR but then itll get richer everywhere so your idle etc will then be even further off. They are costly but honestly a proper ECU calibrated correctly is easily worth the money, even from a safety aspect too with the protection parameters you can put it. Plus with a Starlet you'll be buying a generic wire in, so you could always move it across to your next car too.

Depends what you want from the car and how you want to drive it. 5E's dont rev as nicely as a 4E becasuse of the longer stroke. Yes youll gain a little torque but that can easily be worked around on a 4E with the correct setup. If youre gonna spend £2500-£3000 building a 5E, then put a £50 TD05 on it, you are better saving your money and spending that on a suitable turbo setup for your 4E.

Looking at your dyno runs you are quite a bit leaner on your latest run. You are running 13.5:1 average on WOT, it only really tapers down to 13.0:1 over 7000rpm for 1k, whereas before it was 12.5:1. Ive never mapped a 4AGE so I don’t know what they like, but rule of thumb as a starting point on a n/a is 13.0, Honda’s like it a bit richer at 12.5:1 like you were before so that may be another reason why it doesn’t feel quite as spritly too.

No it’s fine. You’re pushing it when you’re getting around 240-250.

Sensors can die over time seeing as the cars are getting quite old now. With the knock sensor though firstly check to see if any of the wiring has got damaged, the plug has gone brittle over time and cracked thus causing a loose connection. Its located on the back of the engine block near the starter motor. The wiring loom runs along the fuel rail and then down the back of the block. Same with the o2 in terms of checking wiring, check the connections on your injectors too. Has anything changed recently? New parts, had it mapped etc etc?

Drive it to the dyno on the original ecu, then swap the Power FC in there. Only takes 5 mins.

I think thats what will be causing you problems. Move it to one past the throttle plate on the inlet manifold. There is one on the front that the original bov used. Try it there.

Which nipple on the throttle body have you used?

That light comes on when you have an alternator issue which would also explain the cutting out.

No probs, let us know how you get on!

Thanks Calum! I spent a lot of time planning the kit and spec’ing the turbo and it’s turned out brilliantly. The powerband and mid range is amazing like you say Cheers

Ive not looked at the map sensor scaling in the AP Engineering modded PFCs, but all the 4efte ones were based on the SW20/3SGTE so the map sensor may already be in there. As with any old electronics things can fail etc, but if its working now fingers crossed it continues to do so.

Hi Leon, In regards to fitting it to your car it will be easy to move across if yours is also an EP82? If its a EP91 its still possible but some of the wiring will need to be modified. You wont need a MAF sensor, its worth asking your friend for his MAP sensor if its different to the options available in the software as it may save you the work of having to re scale it in the Power FC if its been done before. Its easily do able just a bit of a faff. The calibration would then need to be modified to suit your car on the dyno. If you need assistance with this please drop me a PM.

Good evening all, we have had a couple of requests for this now - we held off posting the results as we haven't fully completed our dyno testing, however as a couple of you have asked, im happy to share the below results for our Fiske EFR Turbo kit so far. Please bare with the long post! The graph shows a comparison between the TD04 Billet that was on the car previously, a GTX2867 and our EFR kit. All these were completed at very similar boost levels. GT28 plot sourced from Matt's ever helpful Power Leader Board (http://www.s314kba.co.uk/leaderboard/) Thank you! The engine sp

Can you post a pic of how you have it plumbed currently? I can then advise if correct / wrong.