Stock injectors are ok to around 245bhp so you should be fine.
Again oil line you should be ok. Some have different threads on the turbo side, so you might need to tweak it a little, but most are the same.
There are a couple of different options available yes, however most use the TD04L off a Subaru WRX with the 3 bolt flange.
Yes weld the wastegate up if using an external item and clock the turbo like you say. On some you will need to remove the compressor housing and file off the original locating pin that stopped the housing turning.
Depends on your budget really, they are fairly cheap used (from £50), but like you say may have worn seals etc.
You can connect it either end as the wire you are tapping into is the same, so it doesnt really matter. Other than that inside is dry, so the unit wont get damaged as easily.
Just be careful with the HKS FCD's though because of how they work.
We've just started another car to build for some circuit use. May do some Time Attack if it fits in the regs. The forum is a bit quite now so we'll probably just use Fb and instagram to share the progress. https://www.instagram.com/fiske_automotive/ / https://www.facebook.com/fiskeautomotive/
You can’t change injection timing with a stock ecu.
Have you checked you are physically getting fuel and spark?
Do you have a timing light, or have set it all at base timing? You say you’ve beej fiddling with the dizzy all day so maybe not?
You can use the marks on the oil pump, crank pulley, cam gears and distributor to set it all at base, if you line all the marks up it’ll be fine until you get it checked with a timing light
K20 coils ‘fit’ in the spark plug bore, but you’ll need custom wiring and the head cover modified to mount them.
We can supply a kit if you’re interested, just drop me a message
If it’s ‘banging’ I.e back firing it’s and ignition problem.
Again, change the dizzy cap, rotor arm, leads, plugs, and check the coil and ignitor on the bulk head too.
As said the car technically doesn't have a dedicated crank angle sensor, it uses the distributor to calculate this input to the ECU. It is worth checking your distributor etc, however this wouldn't be affected by temperature. If the ECU cant see the engine position due to a dizzy fault it would do this regardless of engine temperature.
How quickly does it cut out?
Does sound similar to fuel cut, do you have a boost gauge so you can see what its reading?
Also check your vac lines on your actuator dont have any splits/breaks in them.
It’s changed for sure like you say!
We are still here doing bits and pieces for them though and will continue to do so.
Glad you’ve finally got a Glanza - nice work!