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RobSR

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Everything posted by RobSR

  1. RobSR
    Can’t guarantee 100% but the key way looks very very similar if not the same https://shopbhp.com/products/toyota-knock-sensor-plug-lx?_pos=49&_sid=2716990f6&_ss=r
  2. RobSR
    Yes we will post the details here and on our website when we’ve finalised the costings with our supplier. Thanks
  3. RobSR
    Hi, We have recently done a 98 Spec Glanza Livesports front lip. We will post up about them over the next coming weeks. Thanks,
  4. RobSR
    Just stick with the stock one imo. Near enough pointless having the adjustable one with a meshed cam setup.
  5. RobSR
    One of my customers has done it. I’ve got the car next week so I’ll let you know what it’s like and how he did it
  6. RobSR
    Ok no point going TD04 then. 200-220 ish for that boost I’d imagine.
  7. RobSR
    Whats your full setup and what are you using the car for? If youre not forged, you may as well stay with the TD035
  8. RobSR
    Depends on your power goals. Single for upto 450 id say. Double if you’ll be heading past that.
  9. RobSR
    Have you changed the wiring loom to match the 4efte ecu pinout?
  10. RobSR
    I’ve never had an issue with getting bits from Mike but it does seem other people have unfortunately. We produce a 3” exhaust dyno proven to 460bhp if you’re after another option 😊
  11. RobSR
    ORC for me
  12. RobSR
    OS Giken or ORC
  13. RobSR
    Depends on your budget really. Pectel, Syvecs and Life Racing have the best boost control and knock control. Link are popular and cheaper, whilst having lots of features; their control strategies are limited to getting it perfect.
  14. RobSR
    GT28R is a 2860 no? A good standalone will help a lot as you have full closed loop control of the boost control system. Get the right one and you can adjust your PID terms relative to your target delta both on the negative and positive side. That’s the key to good boost control, or any closed loop control loop that said.
  15. RobSR
    Should be pretty nice. Not tuned one of those turbos, but can get GT28's to 1.6ish bar by around 4.5k so you should be there or there abouts on a '25 with a competent calibrator and ecu.
  16. RobSR
    HI there, If you list the full spec it would be helpful. You say fairly standard so i would guess its on a CT9 still? Does it have an adjustable actuator? If this is set incorrectly it can cause low down lag. Check the other basics, boost leaks, exhaust leaks etc etc.
  17. RobSR
    How have you wired it in? Stock TPS doesnt use a 5v Ref, where as the Auto one does, so if youve not added that it it wont work.
  18. RobSR
    Sounds like a miss, so check the basics first, i.e ignition system. What management is the car running too? When did the problem start occurring? Did you change anything from when it was ok, or did it start happening randomly?
  19. RobSR
    Ahhhh there you go then
  20. RobSR
    Ah ok yes, that will be your problem, you need to wire it directly to the clocks as they are feed from the Coil, then bypass the resistor. When you get the clocks out its quite easy to see/do.
  21. RobSR
    It’s now back on the road, I mapped it for Martin the other week, made 408bhp
  22. RobSR
    As said you need to use the flywheel they supply. It wont fit with a different flywheel. I have a 309D going in my new engine - itll end up at over 460bhp / 340ftlb so ill let you know how it goes on the single plate 309D. The car running 461bhp/345ftlb was on a Giken Twin Plate so was naturally going to be fine.
  23. RobSR
    Just put a multimeter directly on the fuel pump connector, check it at the final destination and work back if no voltage
  24. RobSR
    Personally I wouldn’t skimp on a map sensor as it’s one of your main control sensors. Expect to pay £80-£120 for a good one.
  25. RobSR
    Stock injector are 295cc and engine capacity is 1331cc In the basemap you have 285cc, 1290cc
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