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RobSR

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Everything posted by RobSR

  1. Could be a lot of things, worn pump, worn bearings, oil type etc. How many miles are on the engine? May be worth refreshing now before it fails and causes a lot more damage.
  2. The thing is, without knowing the temp, we cant tell you if its high or not? If you're using the stock IAT, its mounted in the intake manifold and gets affected by heatsoak badly. So if you did a run with tape, waited, then removed it, it may appear lower, but its because the sensor wouldn't have been as heat soaked. It looks like you're running COP ignition in your picture so its going to be on a standalone ecu; can you post the log?
  3. What intake temps? Where is the IAT mounted? What boost? What intercooler? Lots of variables, let us know and we can advise.
  4. 1 bar on idle is a tad low, ideally it’s 1.5 bar. Loose rule of thumb is then 10psi (0.6bar) gain per 1000 rpm.
  5. Where/when did you messaged him? Email, Facebook etc? Feel free to message me if you need help.
  6. Custom removable T45 rear subframe for the IRS setup we are doing 😊
  7. Have you tried what I said above? It’s going to be one of those items as they’re the only things on the circuit
  8. Not at the moment no; the GB that Tristan is organising is for the Cruise design but in an '82 bonnet as that was the most requested.
  9. Seems to be working quite well at 5 deg, you wont be able to get that on stock setup though, we've had to do some tweaking.
  10. I’d recommend buying the rear first before the front. Makes a lot more difference. Front one is down to personal taste imo. I’d personally leave the stock front one, fit the rear one and work on increasing front caster.
  11. Take advice from your engine builder reference the clearances he built it too, but I usually run a 5-50.
  12. Reminds me of my first one! Look forward to seeing what you do with it
  13. I think the torque gain is marginal from the ones I’ve mapped. I’d personally go 4e, I prefer the shorter stroke and you can still make 450+ bhp.
  14. Could be a blocked PCV. Usually remove them when going to a catch can setup.
  15. Best options is to get something made, get on track with a civic rad and you’re soon getting very very hot.
  16. Just waiting on him to send me the link to the quickener he used. Was nice after youve got used to it.
  17. - Forged Engine ~£3000 - Turbo kit inc. intercooler, exhaust etc.~ £1500 - £3000 depending what you go for - Fuel System; injectors pump etc. ~ £500 - Clutch ~ £500 - ECU + mapping, anywhere from £800 - £2500 Youd then want things like a good diff, suspension, brakes etc etc. Either way youre going to need somewhere in the region of £7000 to do it to an ok level.
  18. Haha yes i was assuming the guy above that asked the question knew this but maybe not!
  19. Auto TPS wiring diagram is easily available online. Like said above stock one doesn’t use a 5v Ref so you need to splice into the ‘VCC’ pin. Easiest to do it near the map sensor
  20. Cost to forge the engine, or cost to build everything to 300?
  21. Check Trisks post, he’s trynna bet names together so we do a GT ‘Cruise’ style bonnet. We will do it if we get the numbers 😊
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