RobSR

Thanks Jack! Lkizzy, feel free to drop me a message or email me on rob@racecal.co.uk if you’d like to discuss options. We’ve done most of the current high powered Starlets running on Link.

If you’ve gone standalone, use that to control the boost not the GFB, it’ll be considerably better and safer.

Without filling up Josh’s thread much more..(Sorry Josh) was it a chap called Chris Bover Ireland? He was Manchester..

Cool, I’ll wait to see them. Who was the previous owner?

Can you share where the results to this test are and who did it? I’d be interested to compare this to the data I’ve got off the dyno. I don’t think taggy’s problem was the water pump..plus he wasn’t high power all things considered

I honestly cant remember, i dont believe it did from memory, you just had a bit of a 'hump' in the boot carpet

Yes mine had a full size spare

As Patches said, absolutely no reason to fit larger injectors than 4efte ones or an adjustable FPR on a 4efe-t or even 4efte for that matter if running a Ct9. They run pig rich as standard with the original 295cc injector, going larger is not going to help at all. Reading plugs is not an accurate way of adjusting fuelling considering the tools you have available to yourself today. The stock lambda is a narrowband, i.e the voltage output is minimal (1000mv) across the whole range, the swing from rich to lean has no resolution at all. So if you want to setup your fuelling, you nee

I can supply them as I did Josh’s harness. Drop me a PM or you can email me on sales@racecal.co.uk Cheers

You do run the risk of blowing the gate open if you just remove the vac line. Technically speaking, if you setup your wastegate correctly, you run a test with the vac line removed and you spec your spring so EMAP will blow the gate open just after the max boost you run, so in the event of a failure, you dont overshoot massively. You have two options, replace the actuator with a solid bar thus holding the gate closed, or remove the actuator and weld the penny up.

Steering column being made, im adding in a steering angle sensor too. Will be used for driver and chassis development as well as in the traction control strategy

Looks tidy!

I guess you have not seen this? http://www.s314kba.co.uk/leaderboard/ Hasn’t been updated in ages however.

Just FYI your EBC won’t be able to stop boost creep. If it’s running into fuel cut without an EBC, you’ll still have the same problem. They can only raise boost from base, they can’t lower it..

Hi mate, The rev counters are driven off the negative side of the coil on the Glanza. On the back of your clocks you will see IG- marked. You should be able to trace them both, from memory on a UK/Euro n/a it’s on Plug A, Pin 6 (Black-grey colour) On Glanza it’s Plug A, Pin 9 it needs to go too. I’d imagine yours will be different, but the circuits are marked on the cluster so it shouldn’t be too hard to figure out.

That they do! Engine is nearly ready however, just finishing the head which has been a bit of a challenge with the valves/cams.

Thanks mate, getting there! Engine to finish, suspension, brakes, wiring loom next 😅 never ending, but it’ll be done!

All the best with the open day! You should post the builds on here, always good to see what people are doing 😊

ATL fuel cell box going in. Just finishing steering column now and mounting steering angle sensor etc. More pics to follow!

It’s a homologation special for WRC hence it being 4wd. Thats the beauty when you’re Toyota, you can build a road for how you want the base of your WRC car. Something Ford etc no longer do. I think it looks awesome, looking forward to seeing it on test!

Best of luck with whatever setup you decide on. Look forward to seeing the results.

Using an ALS valve is the proper way of doing it, however it can be done with no additional hardware through ignition retard, ignition cuts and fuel cuts also for heat management. Just be careful if you use the true valve route as it can be quite aggressive on valve train, turbo, exhaust manifold etc.

If that’s the power goal you’re after, I think your best bet would actually just be a CT9 hybrid (you should be able to pick one up pretty cheap) or a Mhi/ihi TF035 which is also a cost effective turbo. Both those will produce the power you want in the rev range you want. Yes final drive / gear does help with economy, however a lot of the improvements can be made when mapping the engine. On ECU’s that can hold multiple maps I always add a ‘lean cruise’ one so customer can get a few extra mpg’S on the motorway.

No as the 4efte ecu is expecting a 24 tooth pulse for crank, then the 4efte dizzy has another trigger wheel in which is the single cam pulse used for 720 sync.

Yes we do, we only list a 272 ‘over shim’ online, however we offer various durations, with varying lift. We run a slightly different cam in our new development engine that you have to use a solid bucket/under shim with. Let us know and we can help spec something most suited to your setup