RobSR

Hi mate, All on the website - www.fiskeautomotive.com

Errr not particularly if you know what you are doing! :) The main thing that lets them down are their boost and knock control. (Well depending how picky you are)

Yes we do FRP like said above and they are under 300.

We can supply in Carbon or FRP. Cheers

Yes we supply both in FRP or Carbon.

You can’t put a price on engine protection though! Nice thing is if you ever move on to a different car after, you can move the ecu across and continue to use it. With a ME you can’t. Just another thought

Nice mate, Looking forward to getting one in ours. Rob

I can support you with the Link stuff if needed as we can supply, but yes it will work out more expensive. Monsoon is worth looking at, but doesn’t have the onboard lambda stuff. Has CAN so you can send out ecu sensor info on this and vice versa. Not used the ME221, mixed reviews by guys on here like you say. I’ll have to have a play with one one day.

Ah yes Idrees can supply WEPR manifolds. What ECU will you be running? :)

Billet wheel are not always lighter. Like said above the only way a billet wheel will help is if it has a more efficient design than its cast counterpart. Like for like you’ll notice no real performance gains. If it’s only starting to come on boost at 4000rpm I wouldn’t say that’s particularly good.. Be good to see the results if you did try it.

The material alone doesn't improve spool, its all in the design of the wheel which helps, that said, if the dynamics of the billet and cast wheel were indentical, the billet would not spool better than the cast. Billet has a higher boost capability and thats about it - even Borgwarner say this. Not sure about the RT twin scroll kit as it doesnt look like many people run them, so there isnt many dyno plots. We'll be posting the results of our new kit soon, which will give TD04 spool and GT2860 power.

A billet wheel doesn't actually help spool, when you research it you will realise it is a myth. When you say making boost, what boost do you think at 4000rpm?

I've got a couple i can do once I have got our car running, spool is a funny one as it also depends on your ECU PID control and your mapper. Your Race-Tech graph has boost on however, and i think i found another but i couldnt remember the chaps name who had the 450 odd bhp one from there, so there is some points to start from.

Thanks mate, however that is just power not spool! Maybe ill have to start making one if i can find some peoples dyno plots that have the boost curves on.

Any light on this @Socks ?

Has anyone got any boost v rpm plots off the dyno for any of the turbo's mentioned above, rather than just feels like x rpm / spool etc? Be good if we could actually start getting a good database together so they can all be compared. Much like the BHP leader board, but based on spool times instead.

13mm thread is a very odd size as per that picture. I’ve never seen a m13 > an-6 adapter unless they have their measurements wrong. With all due respect, I wouldn’t fit that regulator to my car. I’d source a genuine Sard/FuelLab/Aeromotive etc that you can also get the correct fittings for. It’s not worth cutting corners on something that maintains a fuel supply..

You won’t need a -8 line for fuel return, it’s overkill. What FPR do you have? I can show you what you need.

Yes 1.5bar is ok for idle

You can with the idle screw on the TB. Just confirm what your pressure is first however, you'd rather know its right!

Wont be as high as 3. Under 2 is ok for idle, as long as its not nearer 1 bar.

When you say low - how low?

Hi Jack, It is, as its better for spool in most instances. Exhaust gas is 'lazy' at best so minimising the bends it has to flow through is beneficial. With a top mount manifold on a starlet with the space you have you end up with quite a lot of sharp radius' that will effect your spool. I ran a T3 precision with a .48 a/r housing, it was ok, however even with a small housing it was still laggy. Look at a T25 housing imo to give you more options. A T25 .6* will spool a lot better than a T3 .6* a/r.,

I would save the money and go for a newer ecu Power FC are old with limited options, however still better than a JAM PnP as you can actually calibrate it to your setup. Look at Link as they offer some feature packed ECU’s for good money.

Look forward to seeing the build! What are the plans with the GT28 in terms of fettling? Weve just released a new kit which will hit your power goals with great spool so feel free to drop me a pm if you need any assistance Rob