RobSR

The 6 part refers to the size. so 8/10/12 are bigger etc. What you wanting to use them for? Then i could recommend what size id use.

^...apart from the fuelling will be screwed.

Drill through the floor where the plates are and bolt it down. Simple as that

This is another product i dont get why people would skimp on. Its about 60quid more for a SARD, a lot less than an engine build when youve melted all your pistons!

No idea best to call em, you don't even need an approved fitter. Just buy the tubing off them and get anyone who has half a clue what there doing to weld it in. I'm sure there's plenty of decent track building specialists in scotland

Custom cages have approved fitters over the country dude

Dont run 1bar to run it in lol. No boost for the first couple of miles, but lots of revs. Then start introducing a little bit of boost so the bores dont glaze over.

^Fuel cut varies on all car's its controlled when the ecu sees a set voltage from the map. Some cut before some cut after.

XS power make shit tbh. I remember when they made a GT45 kit for a supra, and all the compressor wheel nuts were coming off the turbo, as well as the manifold degrading on the inside and sending shards of mental through turbos aswell. Dont skimp on something important, if that gate jams closed, goodbye turbo and engine.

Go for option 2 but I'm sure if you ask sasha he could make it slightly more compact. A wepr ct9 mani and td04 mani will both take the same abuse, they are the same material made the same way. Just the shape / flanges that are different. I dont really rate adapter plates, yea its an alright cheap alternative if you already have a ct9 mani, but its another thing just to leak or go wrong. Do it right the first time

Youd get abit out of it as the standard map is very very very safe to cope with all the different fuels and condition the car could be in. But its not really worth it on a stock car.

I can't help you with the measurements, but if you want a manifold to last don't buy a toyosports one. Made of cheap steel and you'll be taking it off because it's cracked within a month. Contact WEPR for a decent mani, some a pretty compact, if not drop him a message and I'm sure he'll be able too knock you something up. Build sounds interesting tho! Do you have a progress thread?

^ hopefully you wont need to use the safety side of things you mean! Itll make a massive difference to chassis rigidity. You having a cross bar / any triangulation in the roof?

Yup there not brilliant... if your going td04 soon, put the standard airbox back on for the meantime and see if that helps

Its not that simple. its due to the size of the wastegate in the turbo housing. its not large enough to flow the amount of air your putting in, so again that wont make alot of difference. The other thing you can do is take the turbo apart and port the wastegate slightly. The only way it could help is if your original actuator isnt opening the wastegate enough, but ive never seen that happen. Its usually the other way round.

You can feel fuel cut coming before you hit it.. the options you have are either restrict the intake, or the exhaust. So put the airbox back on, that may help, or restrict your filter. Or, restrict the exhaust side, so put the cat back on, or fit a restricter ring in the exhaust. A manual or any kind of boost controller cant lower boost from what it naturally boosts too. If its boosting to .9bar on its own, setting an EBC at 0.7 wont hold it back.

hmmm im 95% sure they did or used too!

Well i doubt anyones measured it and theyll all vary. Why do you want to know?

Some are hit and miss, but upto 220 daily. 240 tops imo.

Finalllly! Someone else who actually knows how they work instead of just saying there amazing without having a clue and not knowing theres something technically better. Kaaz/TRD/Cusco clutch plate diffs i think are all made by the same company. There was something about this ages ago as they all had the same markings on them.

Far better than quaifes imo. They dont make a noise if you run them in right and use the right oil. Dont worry about the Kaaz stuff, get some fuchs titan race stuff from opie. About £15 a litre i think.

Is that the return going into the bottom of the tank there? If so hows that working for you?

Think everybody has already said yes lol.

Save up and build it yourself slowly!? There only expensive if you have to pay for it in one go

For the sake of a thermo id change that, if still no joy, compression test and see what that says.