jiggaman_16

Those Dragon gauges or watever is marked on them are pretty crap. The lights in one of mine went out from day one. The lights in the other went after a while. Real nice setup tho. In the VW, is there a benefit of mounting the oil cooler in the engine bay apart from probably a shorter hose routing?

Thnx man. It takes a lot of work but its all worth it. Its like a poor man's standalone ECU. It's runnin ok at the moment, just that there's a slight misfire / stutter at low rpm, probably 2-3ooo rpm. I think its the TPS though. Good times ahead man

Its official. Sherona is one of 2 Starlets in Jamaica with a 5EFTE engine running on a Mitsubishi Evolution ECU. A lot of parts were acquired for the upgrade. There were 2 reasons for the upgrade. 1) The turbo & manifold combo was wrong for this engine. The Borg Warner GM-5 had a 0.63 A/R turbine housing (forgive my terminology if i used the 'A/R' wrongly) as well as the modified Ebay Civic ramhorn manifold had runners that were too big for the exhaust flow characteristics of the E engine. That manifold also had a crappy collector. 2) The Greddy E-Manage was just not working out for me. It gave problems while tuning as well as it being a piggyback ECU left a whole lot of potential to be tapped into. Enter the Mitsubishi Evo IX ECU & a TD05H-18G turbo. The Evo 9 ECU is a fully programmable OEM ECU when paired with the appropriate software (dont remember the name rite nw). Timing & a lot of other features can be manipulated within this computer. Stuff needed to work with the computer were: Cam position sensor, TPS, knock sensor, injector resistor box, coil packs, map sensor. A Galant cam sensor was used. A Lancer knock sensor & TPS were used. Evolution 3 yellow 550 CC injectors & resistor box were used (injectors didn't have to be Mitsubishi though : ). A knockoff GM 3 Bar map sensor was used at first. These are notorious for giving trouble. Mine lasted a whole day before it kicked the bucket. I borrowed a OMNI 4 Bar unit to get the car running. I then ordered a genuine OMNI 4 Bar map sensor (Supra application) from Ebay, installed & good to go. Toyota 90919-xxxxx coil packs were obtained on a deal. New ECU with new sensors (new to Sherona at least [cheeky]) would mean that my old hacked-to-death wireloom would have to be hacked even further. This was a no-no. Imagine my heartache wen i was instructed to rip the whole flippin engine wireloom out of the car [blackeye] [worried]. I did so with my heart in my mouth but i knew it was for a good cause. A custom wireloom was constructed wire by wire, splice by splice, connector by connector from cabin to engine bay. Shrink tubing was used in most places to give it that ultra clean look. The usual teething pains presented themselves. Modifying the cam sensor to replace the distributor included attaching the camshaft part of the Toyota distibutor to the Mitsubishi cam sensor, machining the cam sensor housing to fit the Toyota O-ring & a temporary cam sensor mounting bracket. The TPS was modified to fit the manifold also. Seeing as the exhaust manifold is OEM, that aspect of it wouldn't require much work. The turbo had to be mounted to fit in the space of course & this was done by my master fabricator friend. One thing i did was to weld a guide or channel into the outlet area of the turbine housing as i mentioned in a previous post. One thing i refrained from doing was to mount the wastegate on top of the manifold as i see a lot of persons do with this 5E manifold. This is because, if you look inside at the 'collector' or merge area of the manifold, there is a proper '+' shaped divider at the inside roof of the manifold. I believe this contributes a whole lot to the proper flow characteristics of the gases in the manifold. When a hole is burnt through the top of the manifold to accommodate an external wastegate, this divider is effectively destroyed thus killing the proper flow of the exhaust gases. In my case, i placed my wastegate at the forward wall of the manifold so that the divider can stay intact while at the same time, it is still in the area where all the gases meet. The same steel braided oil feed line ( a very very good buy [2thumbsup]) from the TD04 days was reused & a piece of cord braided oil hose was sourced for the oil drain. No water lines were installed but i am now seeking the 4EFTE thermostat housing with the two little pipes for the turbo water supply & return lines. The setup looks neat without the water lines but for the sake of the life of the turbo, i will install the water lines unto it. The turbo was installed successfully with a brace to the block to support it's weight (every application should have one of these). A LOT of work was put in before she finally sputtered to life. A few kinks were ironed out along the way to where she was driveable. Car was finished & given a road tune & all was well. I already said a TD04 was a very good match for a 5EFE engine but i can now say that a TD05H-18G seems to be the perfect turbo for a 5EFE engine. The car is on boost by time you are finished reading this sentence. When cruising in high gear, almost everytime i glance down at the boost controller, i see -0.1, 0.0, 0.1, -0.8 Bars of boost. It boosts THAT easily [crazy]. Also, it has that spooling sound you would typically hear trucks make. This spool sound is heard while cruising at more than 1/4 throttle. It is INSTANT. Bad news however. The aim of the game was to get the car ready for the Drag Challenge #5. The proposed completion date of the car was supposed to be a couple weeks before the meet but as fate would have it, the car wasn't completed until the night before. The car was tuned on the Saturday night & all seemed well so we decided to put the car on the line. As luck .... or fate would have it, she damaged a bearing on the way to Vernam. The suspected reason for the bearing was that since the oil pump was changed some time ago for an aftermarket one, i have been experiencing low oil pressure at idle especially wen the engine gets up to temperature. I now know i need a genuine oil pump. Apparently the newfound vigour of the engine enhanced the wear & tear that was slowly occurring due to the low oil pressure. Also, an oversight caused boost spikes which resulted in the head gasket being blown. All of this wasn't evident until more than 3/4 of the journey to the drag meet the next morning. Dejected & frustrated, i just watched a few races & left. I was very disappointed but at the same time, glad it wasn't damaged to the point where i couldn't drive home. The car was pulled own the next day & repaired however. I am now modifying the tappets cover by adding studs to secure the coil packs as well as taking the opportunity to freshen it up with a coat of paint. Engine bay wiring is now being cleaned up & also, a cam position sensor is being fabricated in my spare time to replace the temporary one that was built. She drives ok now, just needs a slight re-tune & she will be at her optimum condition. Drag Challenge # 1 for 2017 should see me with a low 13 sec time-slip. Wish me luck.

I think i like it!

what he said

What brand are the new gauges may i ask?

I understand the disparity between the front right & left but the weights would be more even side to side at the back. ???

Custom curved end tanks i assume? Honda SFWD style i hope. Curved end tanks offer the very best flow in my opinion.

Darn @ the crashed BMW ..... that cage held up! I just kno u had a blast at the Ring'

Lovin it. Thats the same exact setup i picture doin on my car someday. EXACT!

I would prefer this manifold. The runners merge into the collector much betther than the previous one (look at the angle #3 runner meets the manifold ). Also, the collector itself seems to be a better design, slightly smaller & less voluminous which promotes better exhaust gas flow. Disadvantage would b that the other one has the external wastegate port ...... i'd modify this one by welding the EWG pipe & flange onto it. But thats just my $0.02

RACEISM, not RACISM. A play on words. Tongue in cheek tho .......

Gets better everyday, doesnt it?

Lovin the intercooler

Any ideas as to the dip in power & torque between 5000 & 5400 RPM?

Dont u just love a forward facing setup ...

getting there son .....

Whats the difference between the intake manifolds? Edit* - never mind. Just read the blog

Forward facing ............ daddy likes

Not sure about the M6 but what i did was get some 11 mm head bolts & a tap to suit. That route is a bit simpler than the helicoil. It happens all the time, we forget that the end bolts on the crankcase screw into aluminum (oil pump & rear crankshaft seal housings) & not steel as the rest of the block. I got 3 11mm bolts out of 4 in mine nw.

A nice functional DIY front splitter should balance off things quite nicely.

Absolutely smashing. I bet it rips .......

bit of a kink / belly there Rob ........ has it been sorted or wont be a problem?

Holy smokes .... speakin of smoke .... i'm assumin that puff of smoke above the car was from the wastegate......good stuff