jezza

had a set of there before. I used 6mm spacers all round. They don't fill the arches very well but look good otherwise.

Since Wednesday on a trip back home I've spotted Silver glanza green back wheels pennyburn road, derry Black Glanza white wheels, mud flaps, Dunfanaghy road Black Glanza S, Creshlough White Glanza red/black anodised wheels, Letterkenny road Black GT lowered on white multi spokes at Gees, Derry They're everywhere!!!

I'm in the process of making a rear cage for my GT. I ended up measuring the car for the main roll hoop. Yet to discover if my dimensions are accurate though. The braces onto the wheel arches and diagonal brace will just be cut to length once the roll hoop is in situ. I believe the Glanza has a higher roof so my sizes prob wouldn't help you. Have you got access to CDS tube and pipe bender?

Definately going to cause a leak with incorrect sized joiners.

I almost slapped him when he told me how much he paid for the seat! Extremely jammy git. You've been working hard mate, need to get a closer look at some point.

Turned out well. A unique mod!

Aha. I wonder why camskill didn't mention that. You'd need 2 sets of the superflex bushes in some cases then

The OE drop links just have 2 bushes. I've gone with the superflex bushes as the OE ones were knackeded especially after fitting the ALK. Car's still off the road so unsure how they perform. The OE arch bushes were noticably more worn on the outside as you would imagine. I'm just going to swap them round and see how it goes.

You're pulling our leg surely! That's not actually your car is it? Surely if you were to post a pic of fire damage, it would be of the engine bay not one showing a hint of a red bonnet.

Just spoke to the seller. It is just an OE replacement clutch (not uprated). The term 'organic' just refers to the friction material. Uprated clutches have a different grade of organic fibre material. For mildly tuned, he recommended a green speed stage 1 clutch kit which is 30% uprated with carbon kevlar friction material. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...%3D1&_rdc=1

Interested to hear feedback on this too as I'm in need of a replacement clutch.

Just emailed cap so will wait and see what they have to say.

i bought it from a member on tgtt. It was a brand new cap clutch. Might chance my arm and get in touch with cap and see what they have to say.

The engine is out of my GT for some TLC. Main reason was to change the crank oil seal on the gear box side which was leaking a fair bit. I've noticed my CAP 4puk paddle clutch has about 1mm left on the puks. That's after 2 years and only about 12000 miles! Not impressed (not sure if engine oil would make it wear any faster) Should I change or put the cap clutch back in. Dilema!

it's not a font mate. Vehicle livery is almost always custom designed by the manufacturer.

I've never seen aftermarket badges unfortunately, just stickers

I can get silver decals (rather than badges) made for you that are like for like. PM me if you are interested.

More progress this weekend! Eventually finished the drivers seat rail and seat fitted Attacked the engine bay today. Removed the battery tray to clear some space. Going to make up a plate to bridge the engine mount bracket back to the chassis leg for added support. Started by removing everything from the front and sides, leaving the fire wall as it was. Clean, scotch pad, degrease, body schutz then gloss black. Happy with how it turned out! Good days work

you can normally add a spacer to increase spring tension or coil an additional spring with the existing one.

Is you BOV adjustable? If so thighten the spring and get chatter on low boost and dump on high. Best of both. If it's not adjustable, find a blanking piece with suitable diameter and jubilee onto the silicone hose on the intercooler pipe. You can put a self tapper or small bolt in the end of the vacuum pipe to block it off.

Small update... The engine is out ready for some TLC. Parts arrived from camskills on Tuesday. Manifold and turbo gaskets Thermostat Water pump Crank oil seals Timing belt kit Engine mount poly bushes Drop link poly bushes Made some progress with the seat rails. The drivers rail is preassembled in situ. Now need to tack weld the rails in position and remove to get fully welded. Then it's just a mirror image for the passenger rail. Spent a bit of time stripping the rear and painting the floor. Making way for the roll cage! Decided to relocate the battery so made up a bracket that util

PM'd matey

with the right plastic it would def be possible. To avoid imperfections you would need an polished aluminium tool. Prob taking in the region of 15 grand tooling. The cheaper option would be a cast resin tool using a bonnet as a pattern. Would inevitably end up with some imperfections. It would be possible but very costly no matter the manufacturing process.

Thermostat is in the housing below the distributer. Follow the top rad hose and you'll find it

I've stripped out the rear and painted the floor. Now in the process of making custom rails for the seats, relocating battery, rehanging radiator...the list keeps getting longer! A moment of inspiration lead me to paying a visit to metal supermarket to purchase 6 metres of 1.5" CDS tube to make a 5 point roll cage. I'm hoping to spend no more than £150 on materials so not too expensive. With the aid of my trusty manual hydraulic pipe bender I hope to get it right first time! Will be modelling the main roll hoop in CAD first to give me the best chance of getting the bends correct.