jezza

Yeah plastic it is. Much finer diamond pattern than you normally get with metal mesh

Maybe not related but worth mentioning. My mate replaced his gearbox oil this week and had problems selecting gears after. Turned out he had forgot to put the washer back on the 17mm filler bolt. End of the bolt must have been fouling the selector inside.

I had intentions of doing this very thing so bout 6m of 38mm CDS tube and roll cage weld on saddle brackets. I atempted to bend the tube on a manual pipe bender and failed. Kinded the pipe badly! I can send you the drawing of the roll hoop if you can get one made for me Not sure how accurate the drawing is but would give you a starting point.

Just out of EP82 sets mate but hope to make more again soon. Keep an eye in my trader section

Well up for it! Been 2 years since my last dyno. 1.Scratchy 2.Gary (GBRM) 3. _shaun_ 4.ryan-11 5.Rory 6.Connor 7.Maz90 8.Andrew Miller 9.Greg M 10.gtmuzz 11. hullahoops 12. Chris 13.Russleh 14. Shahzad 15. paul mc 16. WallaceGlanza 17. Aaronw 18. BigMan 19. Jezza

Good work mate, Glad I could help with the power steering pump brackets. Get yourself one of my civic rad mounting kits. Will make your rad sit much neater

Swap over the thermostat housing and intake mani and it should plug straight into the wiring loom.

there is esp powder coating in possil park. Phone trevor on 01413363800 for a quote. Alternatively try chameleon in renfrew. 01418851714. Their work is top notch.

i'd imagine they would have different pattern of captive nuts under the seat but it would prob be easy enough to adapt. I had to mod your bride rail to fit your bucket seat. The previous owner had a rail on top of the bride rail! Was a high driving position.

Loved this car while I owned it briefly. Did pour a lot of time and effort into it but I'm glad it went to a good home. I know for a fact it is being well looked after. Looking forward to seeing the livesports kit fitted. Doubt there is many two tonne livesports kitted gts in the world! Here's a few more pics of it before Rob stole it from me My GT managed to sneak in there too! I have pics of how it looked while I was restoring if you want a copy.

I'd say the plastic duct already under the bonnet would be doing a good enough job at directing air flow through thte OE top mount. I think it forms a seal around the top mount so should be quite efficient.

Good work. I usually just take a photo or find a high res image off the net.

You could have just asked me for the Blitz access artwork Luke I'm loving the 2nd mines logo. Might have to order one, even though I run an access

count me in. Def up for a dyno session. My gt blew a piston at whitburn few years back but not their fault.

Not sure about the door handles, but definately not windows

Tried to reply about tow eyes.

Fantastic news. Glad she's back in your posession.

Nice motor. Had a set of those wheels a while back. Wish I'd kept them now after seeing them on your car. Meant to be rare in 15" and worth a few quid Made by rays engineering. Will let you know when the tow eye is dispatched

otherwise known as studs would need to know thead size in that case. Most likely fine thread for which i can't help you.

i think the manifold to cyl head nuts are m10 fine thread. I would def use genuine nuts for the mani. They require a 14mm spanner which helps as some aftermarket manis don't leave much space around the head studs. Does your mani have studs for the turbo? If not i could prob send you bolts for that and nuts for the decat which is normally just mate studs. I would advise against using stainless fasteners due to dissimilar metal corrosion.

The original thread is M-8, I don't think you would have enough space on the hot pipe flange if you were to drill and tap to use an M10 bolt. I'd suggest using an M6 nut and bolt with a repair washer on the hot pipe flange. Should hold fine.

Not something that has been done to my knowledge. The scoop would need to be injection moulded which would cost a fortune in tooling. You prob wouldn't see your intercooler anyway as the scoop is futher forward and would be hidden by the air duct over the core.

The most common method is to weld a plate between the exhaust and turbo flanges. Quick and simple to do... If you know a welder!

the mani is coping well. Runner 2 is too low meaning i had to rotate the turbo and mod the hot pipe to fit. Not ideal but will be corrected on any production manifolds.

Back on the road again and boosting strong. Still a few niggles to sort out but glad its back up and running. Few snaps of the bay: