Claymore

Thanks mate 👍.

I honestly don't know mate. The thing is, if I buy a starlet, I'll just build the kit back into it and then its done again. It makes the most sense though as I have all the parts I stripped. I've been to see 2 x 4efe powered corolla's (both were bullshit) and a paseo that had serious corrosion to the sills and arches. No luck so far. But I also like a new challenge and the way I see it, time is running out. There are so many projects I want to build.

The car got T-boned whilst I was out for a nice quiet drive, written off as Cat S/C. Luckily no-one was hurt. Stripped and scrapped. R.I.P. Nanza. Full details of the build series are here: https://www.youtube.com/@dan91sgarage

Fitted some SR 98 spec rev counter clocks Hundreds of other little jobs, welded in a turbo oil drain to the sump, used a Glanza manifold vacuum tube for the map references for DV and boost gauge. Used a oil filter sandwich plate for the turbo oil feed as I had made the custom exhaust mani to allow clearance for it and a full size oil filter. So the det 3 + was mapped for fuelling with safe retard on the timing for boost and then...

Toyosports intercooler with universal 51mm pipe kit. (managed to get the original IAT sensor installed without welding ;-)). K and N air filter. Det 3 + piggy back install along with 4efte injectors, AEM wide band and Turbosmart boost gauge. Wideband wired to Det 3 for datalogging

Time for a long overdue, final update for Nanza. Gonna be a bit of a photo dump for the turbo build series I did on YouTube. Unfortunately the car was written off in a traffic collision a few months ago and it seemed fair to finish this thread on the forum. Made my own turbo log manifold and down pipe. Welded a 3" sport cat into the piss poor TD 3" glanza exhaust Used a maxpeedingrods TD04 turbo that needed port matching to the manifold.

Top notch parts there mate, Turbo looks awesome. Looking forward to the build.

Excellent progress mate

Excellent, looking forward to the updates on the build

To be honest Frankie I would say that the fte inlet manifold is the best suited option for the 4efte engine with the CT9 turbo, personally I would just stick with what you have. As RobSR has said the corolla plenum is the smallest volume of all 3 common inlet manifolds, and has the longest runners which will magnify low down torque but will most likely lose power at the top end of the rev range as they're smaller diameter than fte. The other issues off the top of my head are: 46mm diameter inlet flange on rolla manifold (needs the flange welding onto the plenum, or when you bore it out to 50mm for the fte TB the flange will fall off), IAT boss needs welding on, some sort of boss / remote setup for the IACV and the vac tube thing aswell (some people delete the iacv and wax stat, but unless its a "racecar" build I can't see it being much fun to live with), lack of vacuum sources for dump valve (maybe a vacuum block)... Concentrate your time, money and effort on other mods.

I would check the gearbox has oil in it, also check if the oil has shiny metal particles from worn synchros. Replace and bleed clutch cylinders. Not sure about the differences in gear ratios from c52 to c56.

Nice to know there is progress from the body shop after all the effort you went to sourcing the parts. Looking forward to the photos.

As far as I know the C56 gearbox is stronger (apparently it has thicker gears, never taken one apart personally: https://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/109178-gearbox-help/?tab=comments#comment-1234023). I would make sure that all the suspect faulty parts you have found (clutch cylinders, release bearing, check your engine and gearbox mounts (knocking noises), gearshift cables / brackets, cv joints etc) are fixed to confirm gearbox is the problem. Most c56 will be well used by now, most good condition gearboxes are in cars being used not sat in garages as spares, so budget for a rebuild if you buy it, also check if parts are available to rebuild then now? Your gearbox was also old with many km's and may not have lasted much longer anyway.

Great stuff, always a relief to hear it run again after a long build. Something was bugging me about the cam cover though. Looks like a converted 4efe item, not sure if it's just the photos but it doesn't look as if the original hole for the intake pipe breather has been blocked? Might be worth checking before it sprays oil vapour out!

Great to see the progress mate. Will all be worth it in the end.

It was Sam44 that suggested you use a low temp. thermostat. I just supplied the part number in case you wanted to try it. I personally don't like them and only use the normal one for the engine. In your photo it looks like the seal got pinched and cut the bottom off it. Happy that it's all sorted now.

The orange "string" looks like gasket sealant used to seal the thermostat housing to the head? Too much sealant can come off and then got stuck in the thermostat I guess. Hope the heads ok. Did you use a Genuine Toyota head gasket for the rebuild?

Can't see the movie. Glad you found it, where was the leak?

16284-11040 is the part number for the rubber hose that feeds coolant to and from the turbo. 2 required per vehicle. But you would see if that was the leak. Idle speed problems (2000rpm) could also be the idle air control valve. I would do a diagnostic check also just in case there are any codes. If it was my car, I would get the cooling system pressure tested at your mechanics and when you have found the problem then change the tap water for pre mixed coolant. It's unlikely to freeze in summer and it won't be in the engine long enough to do any mineral damage. Your choice really.

That could be a lot of things Frankie. Coolant hose / radiator leak, should be able to see / smell. Bad radiator cap not holding pressure. Head gasket failure (is there white smoke from the exhaust or coolant and oil mixing?) was it a genuine Toyota gasket? If you take the spark plugs out and shine a torch down in to look at the pistons they should have black soot on them. If they are clean then water is steam cleaning them. The do kits to test for CO2 in coolant. The wax thermostat on the Throttle body has coolant to warm it up, could it have corroded through (high idle 2500 going up and down?) leaking into inlet manifold? Unlikely. I've had a heater matrix burst before (wet carpet, smell of coolant in car) Its weird that the radiator was empty, but you then filled it up and next time you checked it was ok.

Think most people used the HKS SLD, some piggyback ecu's can delete it or a speedo cable reduction gearbox. But this last one changes the speedo to mph and raises the speed limit to 180mph as far as I can remember.

Great stuff! Did you buy the Turbo crankshaft or was it a nice surprise when you pulled the engine apart? Looking forward to this.

I don't think it's enough, I didn't remove much material from the + in the turbo side. The big restrictions are in the #2 and #3 runners, so your restrictions are still there. My build thread shows where to remove material. Or if you don't want to grind it you should buy a tubular manifold before you increase the boost. The speed limit removal can be either electronic (hks sld) or a mechanical gearbox thing connected to the speedo drive cable, but that will change the speedo reading.

Well, 1.2 bar from a stock CT9 sounds like too much to me. I don't think I'd push one that far, as I said before it will be producing very hot air and not be good for power. Most say that 1 bar is the limit really. Boost cut is around 0.8 bar so you'll have to deal with that too. You can go for a ct9 hybrid turbo if you need more power. You already have an air filter, intercooler and exhaust downpipe, fuel pump upgrade so that's good. You will need to port the restrictions from the cast exhaust manifold in runners 2 and 3 or replace it with a tubular item if your increasing the boost. If you don't there is a danger of piston ring land damage apparently. Also the CT9's are quite famous for boost creep, so upping the boost may cause this. You may need a ported wastegate in the turbo. I would install a wideband O2 sensor and gauge before doing anything. Then port / replace the exhaust manifold. Then a HKS adjustable actuator set to just below boost cut and see how it feels at 0.75bar. You might be happy with it there for a while.

Plenty of people use TD04 setups on 4efte engines, most consider 200bhp "safe" on stock internals and the larger turbo will still be in its efficiency range where as the stock ct9 at this bhp level will most likely be off the edge of the efficiency map (high temp charge air). I don't post on the other forum but it all depends on what level you want to be involved in the tuning process and how much control you need for your build. Piggyback is basic level control, minimal wiring, only retarding timing and adjusting MAP sensor voltage to trick the Toyota ECU to adjust fuel. relatively simple to tune. Things like Emanage ultimate are still a piggyback, more complex wiring, take full control of the injector pulse and timing control whilst leaving the stock ECU in place to run some of the car systems. Many standalone ECU's have also been installed this way using a special plug and play (breakout?) harness, it can get to a level where the stock ecu is still kept (for auto g'box a/c etc), standalone ecu has full control of engine management with looms for sequential injection and coil on plug etc. Ask @RobSR, he deals with this all the time. More complicated to tune. Full standalone, lots of wiring, no stock ECU, very complex to tune. Wiring should be ok but tuning best left to the professionals. Tuning on the road with any system is far from ideal, fuelling adjustment from WBO2 data logs are possible, but the timing retard is difficult to set for maximum, safe power without detonation cans / monitoring and best left to the safe environment of a dyno.