-
Content Count
4000 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Wiki
Media Demo
Store
Calendar
Everything posted by ste91
-
As others said, MeisterR's are good.
-
It's a supercharged EP80 series. Looks shite
-
Last time I got some Toyo T1R's were just under £35 a corner. I know what you're trying to get at with the "perfect setup" but what works for some might not feel right for you. Not trying to sound like a lecture as I'm no expert but from experience I've found that a car that gives you confidence is better to drive than one that makes you feel on edge all the time. Just as an example, my first Starlet had uprated shocks/springs, front and rear strut braces, and 195/45/15 Toyo tyres. It was good to drive because I knew the car and it was very predictable, the tyres would squeal a bit near the
-
Have you checked the basics i.e. ignition system parts? (Plugs/leads/etc...)
-
I'd ditch the Parada S2's and get some Toyo T1R's, they're "cheap but good" if you're on 195/50/15's. And I'd change the D2's for a set of MeisterR's. With those and the rest of the kit you're looking for you should be able to fly round most roads. Don't go too harsh on the damper settings though, my old Starlet had a good springs/shocks combo which were excellent on flat roads, it was like a go kart but on bumpy roads it just skipped about (not nice when you try braking on a bit of bumpy road and it just wants to lock up). MeisterR's on the CRX were great, perfect for the road, it was firm
-
What the fuck LOL why did he ram him at the end? LOL
-
Good base for a project, needs a manual conversion and some more power!
-
That weight is ridiculous, classic Mini's only weight 6XX something kg so you can appreciate how light it is. I bet you're sick of the "is it a turbo" questions though lol.
-
I know the JDM 4EFE came with 100ps, what I mean was the 5EFHE may have been a better starting point as it already has 110ps and revs quite high, so instead of having to change cams and whatever you could simply bolt on the other mods and away you go. I suppose you have to change the ECU/wiring loom with one of those though. Not doubting the 4EFE, just interested to see why he used a 4EFE bottom end when there are 5EFHE parts out there (Joz's build was pretty much a 5EFHE wasn't it?)
-
@ Geo - have you toyed with the idea of any more engine mods? Wilder cams and higher rev limit? Would be interesting to see how this fares against a 4AGE Starlet, but it would be hard to judge as obviously you can say the bigger engine is going to have more torque but it's offset by how light this Starlet is! I love the 4EFE but is there any reason you went for the 4EFE over a 5EFHE?
-
The revs will rise faster but also fall faster too, so for instance when you let your foot off the throttle and just roll along, the revs will drop quicker than usual whereas a standard flywheel will keep spinning and carry you along a bit more.
-
When you say it will do a high 14 that gives me a good idea of how quick it really is for a 1.3, there's a lad round by me with a 106 Quicksilver with a GTi engine, not sure what power it's running but that did a 14.7 I think and it kills most things round here. So for a 1.3 that's seriously quick. It makes me want another Starlet now lol, I'd love to build a similar engine and put it in a stripped and lightened EP91 shell.
-
I was just checking the vids and there's the white one aswell, was the white one written off and the engine transplanted into this one?
-
Is this a genuine race? Is it really that quick? />http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHUBo2h18s0&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL Check the channel for the other vids if you haven't seen them, it's fucking mental. (And Geo is a joker lol!) I take it that it's a 100bhp 4EFE with the exhaust/manifold/cams from Joz's old 5EFHE build?
-
I keep wondering why so many people on Civic Life are talking about Starlet's. And then I realise I'm on UKSC lol.
-
Loving that dash board mate! What wheels are going on it?
-
Good to see it's back online. The layout is pretty much the same now as CivicLife so anyone who uses that forum will have no trouble with this new layout.
-
Hot exhaust + excess fuel.
-
I think they're quoted at 55mpg, so I guess about 50 around town. When crawling in slow traffic I just stick it in 2nd and let it tick over.
-
The MG's are pretty reliable, you may get the odd dodgy MAF sensor which can affect performance but you can easily change it as you can use a MAF off a Vauxhall I forget which one though, or use a "MAFAM" (MAF amplifier) which is made by a member on the MG-Rover forum, basically makes your duff MAF sensor work like it should. So that's easily solved. Other than that there isn't really a lot that can go wrong with them. Good solid cars despite the bad reputation that Rover have. And as much as I love Starlets, even my standard Rover 200 diesel handles and brakes far better than a standard Star
-
An "extra few horses" on an MG ZR/ZT and (and Rover 25/45) is easy. All you need is a decat (£40ish), a set of injectors from a Rover 200/400/600 (less than £50 from a scrappy), and turn the boost up (free), and you easily have atleast 130bhp. Spend a bit more and get it remapped and you'll be touching 150bhp. Diesels are actually quite good for tuning. You don't even need to be too precise on the air/fuel ratios (within reason).
-
They're also very expensive. Rover ftw
-
The whole small petrol engine vs diesel MPG debate... personally after having both a small engined petrol car and a diesel, I'd take the diesel every time. I can't speak for other diesels so I'll use mine as an example (although I do know the VAG diesels are highly tunable). In standard form my Rover 220 SDi has 100bhp/155ftlb. I spent £70 on a decat and tuning box, and turned the boost up via the wastegate actuator. It now has around 125-130bhp and 200ftlb torque. That's 25bhp and 45ftlb over standard, for less than £75! And okay it's not exactly a drag strip demon but in the real wor
-
I know you're going to lean more towards VAG, but have a look at the Rover diesels, the Rover 400/45 is probably the ideal sort of size for what you want. They might not be as refined or attractive as a modern diesel but they're still very good, and you can get a good R400 for well under a grand. Forget what you've heard about reliability. The diesel engine in them is bomb proof. And the car itself is based on a Honda Civic. Build quality is fine, the seats are comfy and they drive really well. Upwards of 50+ mpg and they can be tuned for pennies. They come with all the usual electrics and a
-
There are plenty of the later model L series diesels (Rover 25/45, MG ZR/ZT) running 150bhp, on the standard turbo and uprated injectors (along with at least a remap, upped boost and decat), but that's about their limit. These earlier models (Rover 200/400/600) can get an easy 125-130bhp/200ftlb with just a boost increase, tuning box and a decat, but past that they are limited by both the injectors and turbo. There are a few members on the MG/Rover forum building 200bhp machines but they have much bigger VNT turbos and big injectors. So I'm aiming to get a nice power figure but without losi