Glanza_cl

me wanty! ahh been looking at mk1's for ages now so need a eunos or miata in my life! although i want to get a mk1 and put a rotary engine in it 0 offset wheels with a slam and my life will be complete and i will never moan again! ;)

ID- workz on here mate, not sure how youv missed lol, but he has replica lips/bumpers/bonnets everything you could think of http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=245

yup i assumed that lol, very good coilovers and gives your car something that others wont have... something to be happy about mate . always nice to have some rare JDM goodness slapped on the car

yeah cant imagine there are many, the price is ridiculous for a set and with BC and Meister being like half the price i cant imagine many will buy a set either

nice picture mate! few little bits that would have made it just pop... could have taken it on a third (rule of thirds) civic is bang centre of the picture. did you use a tripod? if so perhaps use a slightly longer exposure and maybe a lower camera angle so the water doesn't cacth as much light, just seems like a big distraction in the photo. do you have any editing software? like photo shop... a blast of contrast would realy bring the orange side repeaters out and give the paint work loads of depth. sorry if that seems a bit harsh, just is a wicked pic and thought some evaluation and advice m

Ah got ya, yeah thats exactly why i'm getting rid of the scoob... well unless my insurance drops a grand that is. i had quotes around the 1k-1.5k mark for a DC5. might be my area code though. Cant wait till i hit 25! insurance drops by like 50%... just gotta bide my time, can get something shit like a zetec s insured for like £500! but thats lame! haha i want 300bhp! and cheap insurance

how come you cant get insured? i'm same age and ncb etc, well will have 5 in June but still. is it you cant get insured... or you not willing to pay like 1.5-2k insurance premium?

probably gunna chop my scoob in for a DC5 pre facelift ... still look sick yeah it will be slower but you get alot of car for what it is. Not a fan of eg's ek's etc etc, the shape it just to common and boy racer for my liking.

yeah they should sound the same but wont last anywhere near as long... there cheap for a reason, mad with crappy materials and shite springs. sound ok, but wont last long imo. a boost leak is inevitable

Ah cool, its nothing special but there doesn't seem to be a thread that explains what a FCD does, how it does it, and what mods make it worth while and safe

At a minimum just a RRFPR will do, but something like a SAFC will give greater fine adjustments. an uprated fuel pump is always good as the stock item might be the original from when it was first put in (so like 14years old lol) sounds like you got the rest sorted, but 160 you shouldnt need one... i made 170 on the stock ecu also glad the information is helpful

Doesn't seem to be much info out there to new member about FCD's (Fuel Cut Defenders) and how they work... other then options like there baaad or yeah there fine lol. so here is a quick run down and explanation about them: The basic function of a Fuel Cut Defender is to alter the signal to the ECU and allow you to run a greater boost level, how does it do this?.... Well the ECU takes readings from the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure sensor) which provides it with an accurate table to fuel the car through the rev range. Different air levels and air density will alter the voltage readi

yeah nothing wrong with the stock FPR its the fact that the FCD is potentialy making the car run lean... having a RRFPR means you can up the fuel rail pressure so you run richer through the whole rev range, meaning where the ecu is leaning out top end its now not. if that makes sence lol injectors should be all good upto 200bhp

find out when he last topped it up with oil, check oil level and condition of oil. as above but with coolant. if something like head gasket/ringlands etc is going it will use oil or coolant. make sure the engine is cold, start and watch temps raise make sure thermostat kicks in when it should... listen for any strange tappety noise from the lower half of the engine (the heads make alot of noise anyway, so dont get worried about that) and then just general visual checks for leaks, blows etc etc

yeah i loved the bigger comp intake, but some dont bother... making it very hard without proof to prove that its actually a hybrid, unless your very up on your compressor blades and can tell the difference

yeah i ment that if he has a FCD likeness id he has run alot more then 0.8bar I believe fuel cut is about 0.85 bar so about 12-14psi but all cars differ. my glanza ran 0.85bar on stock ecu without hitting fuel cut (with supporting mods) The FCD alters the voltage to the ecu, so the FCD will hold say 4.5v (5v is around 1bar) but let you run more boost... but the ecu still thinks your running lower boost so the fueling will be well off (so running lean), making the engine run super hot and potentially fudge your piston rings or worse

what size pistons you running? looks like you got a bit more room there to up the CC and run some fat pistons going to be epic all the same so doesnt realy matter

dump the FCD doesnt need it if he's only running 0.8bar... personally FCD realy put me off the car as that means its ecu safety precautions have been bypassed. one quick trip up at 1.1bar and it could all go wrong, nowt stopping him/you from doing that. nice spec but if he 'only' ran 0.8bar why have a FCD? yes fuel cut but could just lower the boost by like 0.3-5 of a bar problem solved. as steve also said uprated fuel pump wouldnt go a miss

would need a fmic to run a S bonnet. Car looks wicked! could do with a wheel aligmnet by the look of it lol. might wanna think about getting a RRFPR and a quick trip to a RR before you do to much else. new engine would cost alot more then a new front lip thats for sure

not necessarily, some companies simply bore the housing out to accommodate the larger inlet blade and dont touch the outside housing atall its going to be hard without a receipt, and without knowledge of turbo's checking the turbine blades probably wont help you much as you would have to determine the difference. will just have to gets some receipts or find where the work was done on it and ring the place the verify... if he provides nothing then its probably not. some people fuck there turbo get it rebuilt to OEM specifications and then presume as it got worked over that makes it 'hybrid'

it would be hard to see if the cam timing is off by a tooth by eye... unless you get up close and check the alignment. these cars are so old the yes some faults might come up on the diagnostic but i found my knock sensor didnt, its tricky but you just got to cross one thing off at a time until you find the bugger!

thats the zero sport tmic under tray... its ment for us scooby boys, you could make something similar i guess. its main purpose is to direct a greater concentrated air flow to the tmic... reason being is we can run around 500bhp on the sti tmic's. personally i think its a waste of time for the glanza/gt as anything really past stock boost and the tmic isnt particularly efficient. cost wise it would be more practical to invest in a fmic... there pennies for your cars now anyway.

Extra mods shouldn't make the car any less responsive, an exhaust if anything providing better flow would increase throttle response... better flow= more torque. You say you had the cambelt done? might well be a tooth out on the cam timing... happened to me and car felt like crap, almost as if your driving through water, the car wants to go but just wont! if the cam timing is fine then check the map sensor also could be your knock sensor? pulling timing and making it sluggish. check those and if still nothing could be the coil pack. but you saying it doesn't kick down properly would make me

Mild steel wont last as long as stainless and will eventually rust but on the other hand stainless in a harder metal and can suffer from stress cracks if there is excess movement... killamats products are mega quality so even his mild steel products will last a good number of years, probably longer then you will have the car. personally i would pay that little extra and get a stainless decat, there hardly expensive so i wouldnt skimp the few extra quid and they are shiny lol

17x9! madness ... will they even fit under the arches? would look epic though.