Glanza_cl

didnt think the VF35 would take 1.6bar daily? i mean i had one standard on the scoob and mine was mapped to 1.5bar as above that was seen as pushing it. either way a great turbo choice and i wish more people would see the VF light and use them, as the spool to power characteristics are amazing! also how come your deciding to use a power fc? on such a dedicated build a power fc seems a bit dated to today's standards.

Not sure the emanage maps can be altered in real time 3D? but with options like that from the dastek for the price i would be going with dastek its got some amazing functions for the price tag, and would get a better map from the software its running and with the inbuilt options to scale the map for injectors quickly and easily etc you are going to get good results. Only downside is if you need it remapped you need to find an approved dastek mapper... but if Daves close and can do it again if needed then no worries ;)

Ooo Micky thats your 3,333 post! put those < signs in and thats alot of love! <3<3<3<3... thats forum deication there, showing starlet love in your post count

guess i missed this then lol! in short yes

with coilpacks i think it would be a case of advancing the crank timing? might be wrong. you can get basic controlers for timming but tbh its not worth the hassle on a 1.3n/a. good service, clean throttle body, fresh plugs and i bet it would feel alot better!

actualy yeah what he said lol ^^^

its not a particularly wide rim being only 7inch wide but with the low offset the front might catch on hard turning and the back might rub if you have passengers. they wont rub in daily use unless you run on coilovers slammed type thing. you can run very low in ride height and not have issues but to do so you would have to run the coilovers on a very hard rebound setting. Panhard rob is a must if going lower then 30/40mm as it really does munch the tracking of the rear. Basically you would need a panhard rod and personally rolling doesn't cost much, get a nice flair on the arches and roll l

ceramic coating is mainly for looks, if coated through the inside and outside it can aid with heat dispersion and flow. but from what i have herd it can lead the welds to crack prematurely. but if you got the money to ceramic coat a mani i would bet you will also spend the time getting it braced and strengthened to counter what downsides there are to the ceramic process.

normal/VHT paint will just come off no matter what you do... waste of time and money. ceramic coating wont come off but is expensive and makes the mani more pron to cracking. My personal opinion... leave it alone lol. can paint it in VHT if you want and will look good for about a week till it starts to peel off.

no far from free but alot more accurate. has a high price on its head but was rated up there with the G TECH meters used to time 0-60 etc but you cant beat a bit of quick free dyno fun lol

I think the best voted phone/pocket dyno was dynolicious... I have it but tbh haven't ever had the chance to use it lol the whole configuration and then finding a place to put the phone that wont move and also a nice free strip to accelerate. having a mate or placing the phone on the passenger seat really isnt the best for recording the results.

I ran 170bhp under fuel cut... not everyones needs fuel cut defenders and piggy back ecu's. From 'experience' and EBC is a good move, but i would spend my money on a better specific ebc rather then getting ones with built in fuel cut properties. With a good EBC the boost shouldn't creep or move over what you set it at so setting it up at around 0.85bar it should be spot on. I ran a HKS EVC6 and that was shit hot! never seen such a stable boost curve. thats my experience bud

Personally i would advice a ebc as one of along with others a very good first mod. dont know why people are saying there a waste. an 'uprated' actuator alone arnt all that. every turbo car i'v had has had an ebc installed for better boost control over the actuator. but would i get a ebc with built in boost cut? probably not as boost cut is there for a reason... if you wanna by pass factory pre-sets i would look at an ecu

glanza/gt... there isnt much point in the others as the cost to power ratio isnt worth it. you spend more time and effort getting it to work and run then you would enjoying it bide your time mate we have all had to do it then slap a 4efte in there or just buy a glanza/Gt

NOS- naaah Meth- now thats worth looking at

not really, the SAFC is a good little device but is very limited in its function. You don't map them and there aren't 'mappable' they simple are a fuel adjuster, they can add/remove fuel across a rev range in 16 points of adjustment. if you wanna do it on the cheap then all you need is a FCD and RRFPR. you can run a bar and run the RRFPR rich to protect the engine. but honestly i wouldn't advise it mate, its super crude and eventualy you will run into problems. you could run the above set the RRFPR rich and use the SAFC to lean off points in the rev range, but that obviously need wiring in a

haha ahh the old frozen handbrake... yup, not alot you can do apart from perhaps wd40 up all the connects and hope that moister doesn't get in. park in gear with no handbrake on, or as above get some hot water on there to try and free it up hit the search button and you will see consecutive threads dating November/December 05 06 07 08 09 10 all with whys my handbrake stuck on in this cold weather?

for the sake of ease just get a FCD aswell (not that i condone FCD's) but from what i remember to run past fuel cut with just a SAFC you need larger injectors to run a low duty cycle then normal to fool the ecu.

awesome stuff! that should allow for some uber fine tuning ever thought when mapping to run say 10%meth? lower det, more power at lower boost, win win lol

I was behind you the other day up at the London colney roundabout... i would have been in my scoob but was out on delivery so was just in a van. sounded mint though soon as i saw the black and gold i knew it was yours lol

My progression of clean through UKSC lol: Mmmm cleeean

just take it easy with the right pedal and all should be good mate, don't rag it till its set up or mapped.

Mmm i do love a good Macflip lol, he is pretty epic

looks like there might be some ube scrubbing from that rear rota wheel... will you not need to role the arch for clearance? i think a big flair would make it look even better anyway lol

thats a good price mate!... definitely wont get it lower through conventional insurance companies.