gorganl2000

ran a diagnostic? codes?

I've read many a post on the various starlet forums over the years and seen many views/approaches/opinions/combinations. I've spoken to many people ("experts", average joes, backyard specialists, performance enthusiasts, etc.). I've seen many posts and sometimes dyno results with head porting/polishing, uprated cams, valve work, uprated spings, adjustable cam gears and various combinations. 1) And here's my take when it comes to the 4e/5e head. For the most part and average build, i'd leave it alone. It seems to give you 350bhp++ in some set ups, can rev to 7500/7600rpm (some even risk 80

https://www.slideshare.net/pacovico/motor-5e that's for the 5e, but its what i've used to rebuild both the 4e and 5e engines in the past torque specs are near the back of the document

its all about optimizing the set up everything takes time to do it properly....will save troubles later on. if your gas quality varies so much, it might be better if you are on the conservative side ignition wise

yeah he should be able to give you tons of guidance. very experienced with these cars

from past reports, this feature did not work for members, they ended up having to tune emu from scratch basically---i've only recall one member that said they got it to work, but i cant remember who it was at this moment do you have a wide-band connected to the emu?---i suppose this is a prerequisite for autotune to work?!

can the steering rack boot on our cars be changed using that "bag & grease" approach to cover the tie rod end and then slide the new boot over the bag?---basically not removing the tie rod end and needing to get a wheel alignment afterwards. like in that vid

sounds that way

how regular do you think you will be changing discs?....will this be strictly a track car? apart form that discs should last a very long time and 260 vs 277mm could be a notable difference ...even if they fit the same

i'd say if you know someone that is reputable, then just try to get a second hand head in good shape (probably replace valve stem seals--OEM and re-seat valves for piece of mind) and put it on another option is to take off the head and get the area welded back properly IF its the stud area---i've seen this done in the past...and use back your existing head they are known to crack around the top stud on the 4th cylinder holding the exhaust manifold...especially if torqued incorrectly PS if you do any kind of head rebuild...please use OEM parts (valve stem seals, head gasket, exha

it seems to be a decent turbo,,,but my main issue with it at the time was cost/benefit. the vf34 was more expensive than the vf35/vf28, as its ball bearing, was slightly laggier based on the subaru forums (200/300rpm) BUT cost a fair bit more as it was ball bearing it only made marginally more power than a vf35, again according to the subaru forums, again negligible so for all intents and purposes on a 5e/4e engine, the vf35/vf28 seemed the cheaper option to make roughly the same power with slightly better spool or almost the same as 200rpm is negligible maybe,,, in comparison t

with 315cc you should hardly notice any difference...maybe very slightly richer...but stock 4efte ecu should be able to control these

i've done tons of research on vf and td turbos over the years...so many choices smh...lol and i kind of group theses turbos together td05/vf28/vf35....then marginally behind is vf34....then vf30.........in terms of response/lag and you can probably flip that order around in terms of total power output

vf24 is p18 housing ( bigger than vf35)...vf35 is P15 housing taken from ebay IHI RHF5HB Ball Bearing SUBARU STI VF24 VF28 VF29 Turbocharger. Wheel Spec -　Inducer Diameter : 45.4mm -　Exducer Diameter : 60mm -　Trim : 57 -　Total Height : 31.25 -　Bore Diameter: 6.08 -　6+6 Blade Application -　IHI RHF55 VF30, VF35, VF37 Spec -　46.5 / 59.95 mm (Inducer / Exducer Dia) Total Hub Length -　34.1 mm Hole dia. for shaft -　6.1 mm same 6+6 design vf35 has 1.1mm bigger inducer compressor wheel than vf24 and a bigger compressor housing possibly two in

great to hear goldenvtr...the vf35 is an excellent turbo for the 5e its almost like it was built for it ...makes decent power, decent spool, decent price and you can run 20/22psi...and even maybe the odd 25psi from my past research...

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?18701-The-Official-EMU-Tuning-amp-prob-thread!-Launch-control-success-thanks-to-fur! read that..it should help you a lot

i had this issue in the past with emu and larger injectors so i had the ignition map and fuel map adjusted in the low rpm/vacuum range and that helped a lot...i suspect there was some "fighting" between the stock ecu and emu in my case at low rpms with a full standalone you should be able to tweak it a bit with total precision i'm not a tuner, so i cant speak with any conviction, but maybe at low rpm excessive ignition is not so good when the engine is naturally trying to cruise/slow-down---hence the jerking effect, as you are slowing down the car, while the ignition setting is trying

not saying with any certainty, but it may be something to do with the igition/fuel maps at those low rpm how aggressive is your timing around the low rpm (1000 - 2500rpm) while in vacuum?

by any chance do both of you run standalone or piggyback,,,running any bigger injectors than stock?

if its working then it illuminates when you get by the "E" dash or just a little under. from testing it, iirc it still has about 7 litres in it at this point the guage is operated by a resistor type float which is attached to the fuel pump assembly like in this pic http://www.ebay.ie/itm/TOYOTA-STARLET-EP91-Fuel-pump-1998-71458km-23220-74020-2322074020-/352081643898?hash=item51f9b3897a:g:8DcAAOSwiQ9ZOI1Y they have been known to go bad over the years...and yours may need replacing or could be the bulb on the guage cluste ris bad or broken connection---you would have to test all these pos

yeah...i've done it a few times now...if i had to try to take a guess, i'd say 1.8 - 1.9 liters to be closer if you put in 2 liters with the car jacked up at the front, when you lower the jack and level the car, a small amount would flow out the "level hole"

standard engine...1 bar given those two criteria, i'd suggest you stick with the td04 or similar size a td05 of any sort would be most likely inefficient on that set up

gearbox is just under 2 liters

i've ran hawk pads with stock grooved/dimpled discs...no problems at all i now run celica st202 set up with astra slotted/drilled discs with ebc red pads both set ups using dot4 brake fluid and braided brake lines----these two things made a huge difference imo, its really just to get decent pads/braided lines/brake fluid AND break in the pads as stated and even for a little longer if you can

i bought a greddy kit for that exact reason...fit my ep91 perfectly http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?20735-FMIC-comparisons-King-thread there is a lot of information on kits and pictures (hopefully still) in this tread with a custom kit it can be done, just takes a bit more effort and you have to be careful with the core size