gorganl2000

i think the guy did have some little niggles with the stock ecu and idle using this faster iat sensor its a bummer the ttgt is down...such a wealth of knowledge and i've always heard the stock one was kind of slow to respond, but when datalogging it appears to do a decent job for me but maybe the faster response ones will just do an even better job??--i don't know

only now seeing your post...i think its from the toyota celica gt4 i remember the post on ttgt, its supposed to have a faster refresh rate and work with the stock ecu....open element i think

5efe bottom end?....have you ever checked to see which rods are in there?...if it's the thinner 5efe rods, then back in the day persons have reportedly ran a maximum of 10/12psi....some persons have reportedly found the thicker 5efhe rods in some 5efe engines, but all that is just what i've read over the years i can for sure say that the thicker 5efhe rods hold up very well at higher boost levels with a decent tune.

i'll say it again...very clean project i can't imagine the time and effort that goes on behind the scenes to reach this stage

i rate this member/seller very highly excellent communication and was willing to ship overseas---even made sure to find the best rates the item itself was in very good condition i would 100% do business again

that last part is very important...don't overtighten

its always about sharing on the forums

just to update Subaru top feed injectors from 2002+ wrx and 2007+ sti will fit our 4e/5e fuel rails make sure to get all the subaru specific seals/o-rings with the injectors when you buy them or better yet, replace with new Subaru specific seals/o-rings (3 on each injector) the electrical connectors are the same and they are high imp you will need to remove the black plastic spacers from the starlet fuel rail and just use the two metal spacers only, as the Subaru injectors are shorter you will need to cut the two fuel rail bolts or buy new ones (65mm - 75mm) the c

http://greddy.com/upload/file/e-manage-part1.pdf http://greddy.com/upload/file/e-manage_Blue_Install.pdf those are the two most detailed i could find....i run EMU, but i dont have the setting with me and i'm not sure its the same as EMB

that has in the pictures

its two pins...you have to use the correct ones, as the automatic harness has a few wires/pins to it

i'd strongly suggest you get some DIY det cans made up or some kind of knock detection device along with a good wideband/afr guage before you even starting any tuning

we just put some "spades" on the two reverse switch wires and plugged them into the automatic harness. i dont have MOT here, but its been that way from 2006 and no issues really

yeah...that makes two of us and a whole lot of people on the internet....lol if EMU/EMB are still being manufactured, then a software upgrade would be useful. i suppose with the reasonably priced standalone options, piggybacks are not as popular as before

well, this is a bit different, but anyways, i purchased a part from him, but the transaction got messed up with the international shipping (NO fault of his). after trying to help me out as best he could, he ended up giving me a refund. throughout the entire deal his communication was excellent and he went above and beyond to try to assist me so positive feedback for this member

well,,,what i ended up doing was buying a used laptop with windows XP on it-----older compatible software, i can't remember up to what windows year/version works now (maybe vista) on my newer windows 7/8 (at the time), even when i tried a partition set up based on what an IT friend recommended, it did not work/communicate/connect i could open the greddy program, but i couldn't do anything else on the newer windows based laptop ...no suitable drivers

this i've seen before, to me its kind of on/off and on the aggressive side...though it holds decent power/torque. i suppose it would be similar to the 4/6puks then?

it seems so difficult to find that clutch set up between a heavy duty pressure plate/sprung organic clutch and the heavy duty pressure plate/sprung 6 puk clutch....that is still driveable daily/traffic, easy on the transmission, no noise, wont eat through your flywheel, wont bend your fork that's another issue i observed over the years,,,some persons with those extremely hard pressure plates and twin plate set ups, end up with bent/snapped clutch forks down the road and broken throw out bearings

is this just the spec brand or just really common among these 6 or 4 puk clutches in general? ..i was hoping the sprung centre would have negated a significant amount of that shaking/judder knowing me, i'd have a major issue with any excessive juddery and noise, especially as i'd probably be in traffic of some nature on almost any drive i take

tnx colin and t-dog what the exact issue with traffic t-dog?

also, what's the difference between the CC stage 4 part numbers 16055-1620 and 16080-1620 http://id-workz.co.uk/competition-clutch-kit-stage-4-starlet-4e-fte?mfp=vehicle%5B2%2C18%5D%2C6f-category%5Bcooling%2Cdrivetrain%5D&limit=75 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Competition-Clutch-Stage-4-6-puck-Kit-16080-1620-Toyota-Starlet-4EFTE-/272655265754?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

i'm hoping to get some members' experiences on these two clutch set ups which are supposed to handle 300bhp etc based on my readings here and generally. basically both kits consist of a performance pressure plate, sprung 6 puk clutch disc, bearing and alignment tool really just two different brands i suppose now i'm trying to find out how they would feel in a daily driven car?---juddery?...stock or hard gear engagement?...stock/moderate/hard pedal feel?....any installation problems?....how long have you been running thme (km/miles)? Anyone know the torque ratings of these

all those turbos mentioned, and a few others, will get you 300bhp. LSD will help a lot as Gainzy said....but there will be no avoiding wheel spin at that power level, more of a case of trying to minimise it and i agree with Gainzy again somewhat, but would add maybe 225-275 bhp as a decent starlet. Once you start approaching 300bhp it gets more intense

as you have the Subaru flange manifold, then td05 16g, vf35, vf34, vf28,----or equivalent billet hybrid to these items. items you can save on by continuing to use the oem parts----fuel rail and "maybe" rrfpr...the stock ones work fine if going with emanage, i'd recommend emanage ultimate...its an improvement on the blue and not much more cost wise