gorganl2000

i've been thinking of getting a replacement set of silicone radiator hoses, but before i do, i have a few questions. 1) are there any fitment issues? 2) are they durable (will they last) compared to OEM/rubber hoses? 3) any issues with leaks at the metal inlet/outlets of the radiator and engine? 4) will they disintegrate/erode from the inside over time with coolant flow? any help is appreciated?

thank you very much sir

hi, by any chance does anyone have pictures of this mounting/bracket kit fitted up? like the others, i bought it, but no instructions came with it and before i go cutting and drilling stuff, it would be nice to have some kind of guide or pictures to go by. i'm sure its not rocket science, but i want the installation to be as tidy as possible and if possible, some pictures of the radiator hoses connecting to the radiator would be nice as well any help appreciated PS - i already contacted the seller, but no response....i also looked through a few members builds, but

yes ...that fits and should be nice for everyday driving and a bit of fun on the track or in between as well...its the helical version, easy maintenance its not as aggressive as the clutch type LSDs---these may be better for all out drag/track cars

i was trying hard not to ask that question....lol thanks for you input...i see you're being overly cautious maybe Faiyaz has something special in mind for the project

how easy/difficult are oil changes with this WEPR kit and the bigger TD td04 compressor housing? did you have nay issues fitting up the new bigger turbo? is your oil filter still in the stock location? i must admit i like how tidy your engine bay looks...keep up the good work

just a quick question, how much room do you have to change the oil filter with this set up? is it an easy or difficult task? from the picture, the oil filter looks very close to the turbo compressor housing---but could just be the angle also, with the upgraded/hybrid td04L (bigger compressor housing), how easy is it to get to the oil filter now? thanks for any input you can provide,,,,i like this kit, but just want to see your experiences

exactly....i've always hated the messing about with cutting the front shock and having to use back part of it...it just takes up time and sometimes extra money

yeah...back in the day i had wished they made "full" front shocks...as konis are decent shocks on the starlet

is this a full shock or just the insert?

does anyone know if Subaru sti/wrx new style injectors are a direct fit to our fuel rails?...or if any modification is required, exactly what needs to be done?also, is the injector electrical connector the same as stock?are these high impedance injectorssizes --- 565cc pinks and 565cc dark blueshas anyone ran Subaru injectors in their starlet? if so, how do they perform (spray pattern, idle, ease/difficulty of tuning, etc)?

5ecolin should be able to give you some direct links

yeah... konis are still around i guess nowadays there are a lot more options and the cost/benefit to consider

have seen this in the past, especially when i installed firmer trd shocks/springs ....what i did was get two "broad and sturdy" flat washers...i put one under the shock mount sleeve and one above the sleeve to stop it from moving. that worked for me failing that, you may have to get new mounts.

good acceleration and decent handling, you are really enjoying the car now the track looks like a joy to drive on too

what spring rates front/rear and price tag? like many above, i have personal experience with meisterR and i highly recommend them---gquality products, excellent pre/after sales service

gt box and glanza box ...same final drive 3.722 however, glanza box has slightly shorter (reportedly also weaker) 3rd and 4th gears that's what i've always been told http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/gear-ratio-comparison-list.26329/

are you sure about that final drive for the glanza ep91 c56? as far as i have investigated, the ep91 glanza has a 3.722 final drive c56 however, the levin c56 seems to have the 4.312 final drive you noted above may be someone can clarify

i'm agreeing with 5e Colin and Sudden...keep the package together

i always liked the idea of the n/a 5e, very glad yours turned out well, really shows that we have a lot of local talent for a small island...i once built one (2006/2007 iirc) but disassembled it before i installed it and rebuilt it to accommodate turbo..i figured if done properly it could make 150whp with race gas, but it just started to get too expensive for my liking and the power it would make ---but the ITB idea and rev sound was tempting at the time...lol was that power figure achieved on our pump gas? or race gas? or pump plus additives/meth?

unfortunately i've never seen an ep91 diagram like the above i'd like an ep91 version of this myself...and trust me i've looked long and hard

https://www.scribd.com/document/226086926/EP82-Starlet-Wiring-and-Connectors-2 that's the most comprehensive diagram with pictures that i know of hopefully its of some help to you based on the key...it seems pictures 55 and 56 may be on interest to you

i dont know if it makes a difference as i have never measured the pins to see they are indeed different, but we use the 5efhe rods with 4efte pistons and 4efte pins PS---on the other side of the coin, if i were putting 5efhe pistons on 4efte rods, i'd use 4efte rods with 5efhe pistons and 5efhe pins

if you are on uneven road that can also cause "pulling"

i'd not say its pointless...lol....it really depends on what you "need" from your engine vs what you "want" to have-----there is a difference i do admire your builder's honesty though (and honest tradesmen in general)....some builders would gladly take you money knowing that the work they do would be relatively useless for the project but as i said above, for the average project a stock rebuilt head (you could even do some very mild port/polish work) will usually be enough i suppose some people like to say i have "a race spec head that can rev to 10,000rpm with massive cams and