gorganl2000

Some of the oem synchros are now discontinued?---iirc its either 2nd or 3rd gear?!?!

cool...hope you get it sorted

i'd suggest you check your grounding for the aem guage...i've had this exact problem before with my innovate af meter reading one thing and my emu reading something else when the grounding somehow came a little loose

sometimes behind the clutch fork where it pivots can need some grease as well

yeah, i think fuel wise he will be fine, as the stock ecu runs rich anyways and on that size turbo with decent gas the stock ecu should handle ignition fine as well for me, the main issue i think he will have is hitting boost cut on the odd occasion with a 0,8 bar spring

if your gas quality is good i suppose that the stock ecu should handle your plans up to boost cut....so you are looking at around 11/12psi boost max. however, i can foresee problems with boost cut if you get spikes on the odd occasion with the decat, short ram, cold nights may be safer your run at maybe 10 psi or you will need exceptional boost control---that 0.8bar spring may be cutting it a bit too close for comfort with the stock boost cut

what exactly went on your bottom end?

several good points have been raised above and i'd add my two cents here as well i'm from the Caribbean (Barbados) and I've realized over the last 18 years that starlet "tuning/development" has come a long way from its more humble beginnings. I've also realized that different places/cultures do things differently and of course nothing is wrong with that. I don't look at the limits of the stock engine in terms of bhp/boost/revs per say, though those things obviously play a critical role in what the engine can indeed take. Also, dyno figures make it hard to compare as dynos can read differently

check alternator, as well as wiring loom and grounding for any breaks

thanks morgey and stu . PS ---there will be no revving till bust lolol

hail all, how accurate is the stock rev counter? the stock rev limit is supposed to be 7200rpm so in theory the stock ecu enforces the rev limiter (fuel cut) at this point and the stock rev counter should reads the same 7200rpm are persons with stock set up noticing any difference on their oem rev counters? i know some of you have standalones/piggyback installed, so i'm wondering if your stock/oem rev counters and management logs read the exact same rpms as well? if there is a rpm difference, how much is the rpm difference? does this difference worsen as the rpms get higher o

if you are unsure, may be better to change the 2 seals and oil pump.....while you are there, you can inspect/change the water pump, timing belt and 2 tensioners

do you mean drilling/over-sizing the 4 stud holes by 1mm?? but if you use a spigot ring, will this make a difference?...as the disc would still sit exactly centre? or am i missing something?

yeah, i took a quick look yesterday....the 3.0mm needs to come off each disc, else the disc will rub on the carrier as Colin 5e stated another possible option, which i'm not sure about is to slightly grind/lathe the carrier itself by 1.5mm for make room for the 280mm discs...but again i'm not sure if this would structurally weaken the carrier

1.5mm could be a lot in terms of radius on a disc,,,but who knows....maybe i should have tried them at 280mm when i had the chance....i just followed the forum information and took them to the machine shop to be adjusted to 277mm when i got them next time i'm messing with the brakes i'll try to remember to take a closer look at the spacing it would surely save a few dollars and time if they could be used at 280mm

i'm not sure about the leak from the picture, but the oil pump is the "silver piece" between the black plastic cover and the engine block

to the best of my knowledge no air should come from the DV until you are boosting and come off the gas pedal and the DV does its job of "venting"

collin 5e i researched that topic a while back...tons of reading and got no conclusive answers...lol some people mentioned slight flow and "spool/boost noise" differences, but it all seemed negligible at the end of the day i think there is even a 7+7 in there some where too..iirc...lol

post #13 shows some wiring for ep91 3 plug http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/27821-socks-2zz-ge-turbo-glanza-v/ http://www.toyotazone.co.za/howitworks/how-a-computer-controls-an-engine/ http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/wiki/EP82wiring/EP82%20Starlet%20Wiring%20and%20Connectors.pdf that's probably of little help to you, but its the most comprehensive wiring diagram i've seen for the 4efte 2 plug

this i could live with ...lol

very cool vid congrat lionel have you changed your hand brake set up?

did you run a diagnostic?....if you haven't then you should...sounds like ignition issue regarding the misfire---distributor, coil, igniter, plugs, leads do you get any blue smoke on first morning start up?

a friend of mine runs one in his ep82...the noisy one...he has had it for years now and its held up quite well to this day. for sure when you press the clutch it makes a very "metallic" sound which always attracts the attention of those closeby (pedestrians and drivers in traffic...lol) i personally dont like the noise, but you have options in that area and its a personal preference....and also, imo, it feels a bit on the racey/stiff side, but still drive-able if you can live with that apart from those things, its a quality clutch and i'd recommend it if your budget can afford.