gorganl2000

i use a genuine sard fpr kit and fittings from rhdjapan...got it years ago, i'd guess 10 years ago i've never had an issue with it to date...so i'd suggest IF you do get one, to get a proper brand..its not something that you want to go bang as that could spell costly damage the alternative case, as daniel g said, stick with the stock fpr, they work quite well and if you have the proper management, correct size injectors, etc...then you will be fine whatever you do, avoid fake fpr and other such fake items in general

i think its 2.25" inlet http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?82988-TD04L-inlet-size

http://www.tercelreference.com/tercel_info/component_library/drivetrain_components.html#front differentials yeah, some 4age/levin gearboxes come with toyota oem helical which looks like the trd helical as morgey said i have a trd helical, and i'd say for everyday driving its great....no additional maintenance over a stock open diff as with any gearbox, just run some decent gearoil

i've always used toyota genuine bearings as well...never had any issues over the years its to the point where i refuse to build an engine without them i'm sure the other reputable brands have credibility and success stories,...but for me its genuine toyota bearings or nothing

11701-11012-01 MARK 1 11701-11012-02 MARK 2 11701-11012-03 MARK 3 11701-11012-04 MARK 4 11701-11012-05 MARK 5 crankshaft bearing part numbers - 5e 13041-11010-01 MARK 1 13041-11010-02 MARK 2 13041-11010-03 MARK 3 connecting rod bearing part numbers - 5e you can always double check on www.toyodiy.

your best bet is toyota dealer itself...but sometimes you have a long wait if they are out of stock try this place...but you will need part numbers for the bearings you require (the website is cheaper) https://partsouq.com/ http://www.ebay.com/itm/117011101202-Genuine-Toyota-BEARING-CRANKSHAFT-11701-11012-02-/182382066614?hash=item2a76d17bb6:g:UgcAAOSwdjNZGILH&vxp=mtr i recently got some Genuine Toyota 5e bearings from them in VERY fast time at a great price here is another ebay seller http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-OEM-Crank-Shaft-Main-Bearing-Set-11701-11012-03-/1525

thanks a lot funny onion. i'm more accustomed to stock rods...so was just a little surprised when i couldn't identify any directional markings on the forge rods

i'm here looking at some forge rods...possibly asc/cxracing type H beam rods.--similar to maxspeed/pec/scat however, i dont see any "marking" indicating which way they should fit to the crank...i dont see any kind of rod chamfer or any thing such. so my question, which way do you guys usually fit the forged rods which don't have any "markings"?? i know the stock rods have a "direction" guide and end up with the tangs facing the exhaust side do forged rods usually come with assembly direction instructions?

diagnostic codes?

checked the brake calipers, carrier, pads, discs, etc for any excessive play---may need a little service/lubrication

take a pic and post, i'm not sure what you mean

check the cylinder, piston, ringlands, rings and head chamber on the cylinder that reads low you really should have done that before when everything was disassembled to make sure i'd even suggest you check them all (each cylinder/pistons, rings, etc) while you are at it this time

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-STARLET-GLANZA-TURBO-EP91-OIL-DIPSTICK-/122088642266 there's a pic....says a thousand words you can see the o-ring at the bottom

thanks AdamB...its all coming back to me now

as said above, you need some kind of "old platform" computer i had the same issue as you before, i was forced to buy a used laptop with windows XP (or older system 32 bit) an IT friend instructed me to create a partition, but that still did not work on the newer laptop (windows 8 i think it runs),,,the program would load and open, but still could not detect the usb connection to link with the emu

i'd also properly clean all surfaces of oil/grease before reassembling....to get a proper seal

pay the fees..its the right/reasonable thing to do....its not worth the potential impacts in the future if you don't

is there head/machine work that needs to be done to support uprated valve springs?---think i've heard this in the past

what size is your BMC? what size BMC do you run?..stock glanza one?---the size is stamped on it reason i ask, i had a similar issue of spongy/vague/lower brake feel when i installed the celica 277mm set up with twin pots stock bmc is 13/16....i changed to 7/8 from a gt and that helped a lot and i was happy again apparently there is a 1" bmc from a solora that may work as well, but that still needs to be verified

i must say that times certainly have changed, i can not recall the last time i heard someone mention a 5th injector that table would tend to be used to control some other peripheral device now

as said above codes 12 and 22 green one i think is for the fan gray triangular one is for the ecu both are coolant temperature sensors in a way....but most like the gray one is the issue---car may not start if its disconnected if your fan is working, most likely the green one is ok the temp guage in the dash will read incorrectly if one of them is bad, but i cant remember which one

i think cp does a flat top piston which would help with keeping the compression high however, some tuners say a dished pistons is better for flame front and less chance of detonation also, stock 5efhe rods are good (i use them), BUT for the price of a set of forged rods nowadays, you might as well get some and they will handle more than the 5efhe rods....so you would be bullet proof almost lol

similar to the 4e, once built properly, they don't suffer any oil pressure issues people have shimmed the pressure relief valve in the past, but i'm not sure its even needed i've ran a 5efte for nearly 10 years now with no issues