WallaceGlanza

Welcome back bud, what you driving the now?

Certainly look the real deal, have the proper valves too... and typically faded rays nuts.

That camber plate is the wrong way round, turn it 180deg and it should feel better, make sure the other side is the same way - with the cap screws closer to the rear.

Ditto. Planning on getting plenty track time this year.... once I have an engine running on 4 cylinders.

I don't think they even sold their own brand strut braces.

Inline thermostat is the way to go, unfortunately I didn't know that when I bought mine! I think the inline must still flow a small amount at all times so you don't get a big pressure drop when it does open the first time, or get a load of cold oil into the engine but it seems to work better. I think you can get higher rated thermostats too, standard is 80c which I have. Also don't get a huge cooler core, 10 row would easily be sufficient on our cars with the small amount of oil they have.

You'll still need to grind a bit of the pas pump bracket to fit it. But more to the point it doesn't work well, the plate still allows a small amount of oil to flow at all times and over-cools the oil due to this. I had the cooler fully taped over and the oil still wouldn't get up to temperature without a bit of boost to help.

Adjustable wrench?

They need to be reasonably well matched front to back so depends on the specifics of the coilovers, there are plenty different types of Teins and new and old style D2's. ie Tein superstreets upfront with old D2's on the back would be awful.

I muddled myself up with my reply - see the edit! Yeah if you set it so when you pull the actuator arm it just reaches the wastegate flap and holds it closed, then lengthen slightly and adjust from there to get the desired boost level. When you shorten the arm you're increasing the spring tension so it takes more pressure to actuate and open the wastegate flap, it's obviously the opposite with the arm lenghthened so the wastegate opens quicker and makes less boost.

You lengthen the actuator to reduce boost - the actuator arm pulls the wastegate flap closed with spring pressure and then pushes to open it when it starts seeing positive pressure and lengthens the arm. You are best to start with low boost and work your way up to set it, so start with a long actuator and bit by bit shorten it. Boost on a CT9 should be coming in at 2.5k rpm and be at peak boost around 3k.

Yeah give it a try and see if it helps, see what it boosts in 4th too as it'll give you the highest and steadiest reading. 0.7-0.8 would be fine.

Yeah the offset is the distance from inside of the bell (hub face) to the disc edge but you can vary that or the bracket thickness/ position of the holes on the bracket to get the disc centred to the caliper. So if you have really high offset wheels ie the spokes sit close to the standard caliper you could use high offset discs with thicker brackets to let the caliper clear the spokes. It is all also dependant on the thickness of the discs, including the actual calipers. I'd say it's definitely easiest to choose the bell offset then mill/drill the brackets to suit, if you have the means.

That's for an HKS and it is a guide, not definite. Try lengthening the actuator first, it is trial and error to get it set properly.

It's not quite as straight forward as that, you need to make sure the bells have the correct offset to suit the brackets and vice versa, so you may need to get the brackets milled to the correct thickness or space it out. But if you get one right you can adjust the other to suit.

Got to be a two tone for ultimate old school-ness!

Such a clean car - photos don't do it justice, I wouldn't be changing the bodywork if it was mine tbh. Think you'll struggle for much over 230bhp with the CT12 hybrid, unless you're changing it?

This would work with a glanza too... and well most cars. Unless you have an EP82 specific harness but it looks like the standard splice in jobby?

I would agree the BC's are softer than Cusco's but the damping on them isn't quite the same as the Meisters, they're close but the BC's were a bit more crashy and less compliant on bumpy roads, actual roll stiffness was similar. The cuscos were a completely different ball game - and would be amazing on track where the meisters do feel a little too soft but for the road the cuscos are too stiff and don't like bumps. That's from my personal experience of the one's I've had on the car. Also I agree on the fact that the JDM brands won't last over here, my cusco's looked brand new when I got them and the damper failed after probably 15k miles, a second hand replacement then lasted half that.

Then meisters definitely. They're more suited to back roads, they're not overly stiff and the damping is better than others (BC, Cusco) but they still handle very well and have plenty adjustment.

Depends what you want them for - track or road?

Slide off the spade connector then stick a spanner on the body of the switch and turn it anti clockwise.

Use a remote t piece like akyakapotter showed you.

No it's the solenoid which controls the vacuum for the carbon canister. Shouldn't really cause any misfire issues if it's faulty though, but if it's sorted hey ho!

A guy called Tom's website not TOMS