WallaceGlanza

For mapping it only works with the blue.

Although I don't like the guy, Plato's "save" a few years back on the same corner is even more impressive.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPCGnkApnDU

Tearing up another Glen eh! Some good roads up Isla. ;) Snap from a while ago....

No.

Not obvious to everyone if you don't know what to look for though... I think astra discs are 4 x 100 and larger, older golfs use 4 x 100; http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35bc825d8b But as I said the discs are just the start, you're gonna need custom brackets made to suit the starlet hub and whatever calipers you go for and they need to be able to accept the disc in thickness and diameter and be centred perfectly.

It's not that straight forward. For a start the disc will also need to have the same hub bore so it aligns properly, then you will need brackets for the calipers which need to bolt up to the starlet hub. Depending on the disc offset the caliper brackets will need sized to make sure the disc is completely central in the caliper too. Good luck.

tourettes?

Would be good if they're 18" ones but not for 15's!

Schedule 40 relates to the thickness of the pipe (3.68mm for 1 1/2" pipe).... it still has to be made of metal though!! Road runner mani's were sch40 and they still cracked - just not through the thickness of the actual pipe but yes the thickness of the usual cheap manifolds are not sch40 and are too thin.

Well mine has pretty much everything you can bolt on bar a rollcage, however I would say coilovers, a rear arb, decent tires and a good alignment will give you a great handling starlet. Aslong as the bushes are still in ok condition, if not then poly bushes will improve it even further. 318 That thing will never go sideways. :harhar: Get back in a turbo tin can and have fun.

You will need longer studs. The spacers need to be centred on the hub (which is what hubcentric means but everyone seems to think of hubcentric ones as being the ones with studs built in) otherwise they will be out of balance and will cause a vibration like an out of balance wheel. However the expensive hubcentric ones are not needed, if the spacers have the right bore all you'll need are longer studs (for spacers of more than 10mm) or you could even get spacers with a larger bore and use spigot rings to centre them.

I've got an E46 330d sport - rwd, 250bhp and 380lb ft, it's totally different to drive and great for the daily but my glanza would be the choice for back road fun every time. So much more raw and exciting. And it would easily out handle the big beemer. (a 120bhp beemer must be boring by the way )

More than the cost of the manifold itself in most cases....

Mild steel.... ceramic coated.

Going to a beer festival! :drunk2:

I'm gonna take a wild stab in the dark that it will be a daylight visible head up display that you're trying to flog.

That would be the best way to do it -but I can't weld! Very tidy job you've made of it though and I wish my car was so clean underneath, the UK weather/salty roads is awful for cars. I know the overall width would be too big if I just turned the OD - that's what I mention after the last photo. I was going to get the whole diameter that sits in the ring turned down to suit and remove a bit of the tapered lip too, I'm not sure if it will leave a lip though but it's maybe not completely necessary. I have also contacted powerflex and they may have another bush which would fit straight in but I'

So I finally got round to looking at fitting the powerflex bushes to my glanza, now I expected them to be too big as above but it's not quite as straight forward as just turning the diameter of the bush down slightly; First up the bushes measure basically exactly the same outer diameter as the metal sleeve which the standard bushes fit in: So as mentioned above they would fit within the small flange on the axle, however I still think this is not a good idea with the flange being so narrow the load is not being spread across the bush. So the OD of the powerflex bush is: 56mm ID of the m

It will also help in heating up the oil which is very important for the turbo too, I would definately run them.

It doesn't have the right adaptor so no, you need a 3/4" UNF adaptor.

Certainly sounds like it, any smoke?

Nice rug??!??!

Cool will do, sure I asked him already but probably was a long time ago.

I'm after the little connector which attaches to the standard oil pressure switch and a length of wire to splice into my eixting loom, it looks like this (when broken and without the wire): So anyone have one please?

I have a mocal thermostatic sandwich plate, which by design always lets a slight amount of oil to flow to the cooler, enough to still cool the oil too much. As James said an inline thermostat is best, I didn't realise this at the time when buying mine!