WallaceGlanza

The brakes are impressive......

That size and shape of plate is fine, looks much better than a full size jap plate stuck to one side, fitted badly and covering half the intercooler or foglight (and much better than a huge stick on one on the bonnet ). A good base for some mods though.

I made up a kit myself using hi spec discs and bells, mainly to make sure I can get discs in future. They charge £130 for a pair of plain discs or £190 for drilled or grooved ones in 288 and 295 x 26mm. However as Keri says the discs will need to match your current bells - the godspeed bells probably can't be fitted to hi spec discs (or ap discs or compspeed etc etc). If you need to change the bells too you need to make sure you get them in the correct offset as well, not exactly straightforward unfortunately.

Your username and avatar photo. I'll allow it!

Opie is pretty good, you might get it slightly cheaper off ebay but you might also get a free air freshener from opie! No offence intended but that is a pretty high quality oil to use in an NA starlet....

In my eyes that means it's definitely running too cold, when the stock gauge reaches the mid point things still aren't quite up to temperature (my defi water and oil temp gauges confirm that), running a low temp stat in winter is not a good idea and shouldn't really be needed in summer either!

Get out!

I can still get boost spike running a 38mm turbosmart ewg with the CT9, but the set up of the boost controller (If it's an EBC) is important too.

Depends on the kit, there are many different wilwood calipers. Assuming it's the old TMD kit with midilite calipers and 3G discs then in good condition its worth 500 rubs. However if the discs are needing replaced they are not cheap, circa 250 notes - if you can still get them from 3G. Awesome brakes though....

The race tech lines come with the banjo's fitted to hose so it's just the bolts you need..... http://www.race-tech.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_6&products_id=35 I could make this simple for you by flogging you the 2 water line banjo bolts and one oil line banjo bolt (plus copper washers) as I have the lot here. Or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-x-1-5-Banjo-Bolts-With-2-Washer-For-Car-Motorcyles-/280568650948?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415331dcc4 Plus http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M12-BANJO-BOLTS-FOR-12MM-BRAKE-LINE-MOTORCYCLE-BANJO-BO

The actual banjo just needs to be an M12 - the thread doesn't matter (there is no thread on the banjo just a through hole). So the one you linked would be fine but you just need a different banjo bolt.

You must be shit at searching.... http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/m12-x-125-aluminium-black-single-banjo-bolt-723-06-dellorto-337-p.asp http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M12-x-1-25mm-Aluminium-Single-Banjo-Bolt-Black-/160536812773?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2560bd5ce5

Neither sets of my wheels have spigots or match the starlet hub - and none have fallen off in 7 years! Spigots are for centring the wheels - tapered nuts do that instead.

If the wheels have tapered nut seats and the nuts are tapered too then you don't need spigots.

Same way, both clockwise to wind in - I think!

Glanza s bonnet was not quite £150, that was a couple of years ago now though.

Not really when you can buy them from toyota.... same as glanza s bonnets.

Shorty's bonnet....

The main problem I found is just the rust on the actual pad carrier. When they rust, overtime, the build up will compress the little metal slider clips which the pads sit in, when that happens the pad won't slide back. I took a dremel to mine and removed the rust, greased them up and that should stop them seizing. A proper rebuild of the actual caliper is the next step, as above if the seals for the sliders have torn they may be seized too, a clean with some scotchbrite and then a grease up (grease is supplied with the toyota rebuild kits by the way) and they should be all good. You ca

Just to be pedantic it's a hi flow not a hybrid. Look like the exhaust impellor has cut back fins... slightly. Measure the intake too and see if it is a larger compressor wheel.

You've certainly tidied that up nicely, as above good spec now. How are the brakes with the abs removed - does it make the pedal travel shorter and any locking up issues on track?

Note to any Greg's- watch out Danza wants to chuck it in you!

Its just the standard bracket which is normally bolted to the block that you need, somebody breaking a car or who has upgraded their turbo setup should sell you one for pennies.

The blitz decat bolts up to the stock brace - so if the bracket is still on the block there's no reason to not have it braced.