WallaceGlanza

Black racing maybe, not sure on the model though...

There should be a wee nubbin that sticks out the back of the wheel and slots into a notch on a plastic ring on the steering column, it does the self cancelling.

It wouldn't last long - fireplaces don't tend to get near 920C! I remember dane having his coated I think it was done by zircotec as it was the blue colour but it is expensive to get done. I coated mine with tech line black satin from demon tweeks which can be applied with an air gun and it's lasting ok (I've used other "High temp" exhaust paints which have burned off within weeks), for a lasting finish I think ceramic is the only option though.

Sounds normal. The standard temp gauge is crap, by the time it shows the car as overheating it will be majorly overheated! The stock temp gauge also see's the hot side of the engine - pre radiator, so it depends where your greddy gauge is plumbed as to how it compares.

Silkroads crack easily too....

Wow not much clearance there! I thought the wilwood kit i've just made up didn't have much but it's loads compared to that.

Quoted for truth!

That can actually be more restrictive, a typical cone filter will have a larger surface area to take in air and with the right design will create a vortex and speed up the air flow. Apexi are supposedly the best out of the usual Jap filters,

Don't buy new one's - use the existing sensors.

The rear arb will be the one bolt on part that will make the biggest difference, decent tyres, lowering springs and a rear arb and it will handle nice. A front lower arm brace is cheap too and tightens up the front nicely, out of all the braces I'd say it's the one to get first

Yup, piece of shit.... only a proper external wastegate and screamer is any good.

Correct, so no they don't fit. The cables aren't expensive from camskill though.

Honestly a fork works perfectly, slip the prongs between the shaft of the needle and just rock it back, it'll prise them off very gently and won't damage the face of the dials.

M7 x 1.00 so standard coarse metric thread.

The HKS actuator should be stiff. It may well be set at 0.5bar and is actually creeping up to 0.8bar, what other mods have you got?

Even if it's mate it may not be regular pitch as the Japs use fine pitch threads, I can take one with me to work tomorrow and get a set of thread gauges on to check for you. EDIT: mate was meant to be "mate" stupid text speak auto changer. EDIT EDIT: M*8!!!!

A fork works well to prise them off on the glanza needles, you can do it nice and gently.

Looks nice.... but you should've got a 6 cylinder!

bumparoo

bump

Wrap the catch on the car with some fabric - that's how I sorted mine.

It would take a very long time to get the oil upto temp just idling and it's not a good way to warm a car up.

Forward..... I think.... Edit: More up and back actually!

Yes, it's exactly what I use. Edit: It's not good for temperature readings though as you need the sensor for it where the oil is flowing.

I think there's more than two shades of 205, I had a bonnet done in and it had less metallic than my car but my mothers corolla is also 205 and it has a more rainbow type metallic than the glanza, so you want the one with lots of silver/gold metallic!