nastyrash 2003

never herd this happen before, easy way to check stem seals ust strip inlet and exaust mani off and see if thr is any oil in and around the valves, thy may have missed a worn guild.

a mono meter is a meter that checks for posative or negative presure. u can make 1 out of a garden hose and a peace of clear tubing around the same diameter as the garden hoseing, look thm up dead easy to do, wat u are looking for is wat is know in the engine building world as ring flutter this is wer the rings loose contact with the cylinder walls, the main causes of this are cylinder glazing and carbon build up in the ring grooves which causes them to stick, if you put the mono meter in the top bigger breather and block the pcv valve breather then sharply hit the throttle the water in the u

the turbo sits right in the way of a sandwich plate, so it is very hard to use 1. i just use tigger seal and made a bracket from the power steering adjuster braket to the oil filter housing shield bolt just to sure it up and works like a dream. this is a easy mod to do really and i recon u can booste a N/A at around 6psi no problem just back the ignition timing off by 1degree and up fuel presure to 2.6 regulated, oh and also use the turbo injectors and it is worth investing in a new lamba sensor.

check fuel presure and do a plug read to see which cylinder has detonation. i have had blocked fuel filters that have chased this problem.

so wat your saying is its smoking wen cylinders are cold just after uptake from idle, take your breath pipe off the top and use a mono meter and check for ring flutter under aceleration. did u check the ring land for cracks, take your exhaust and inlet off and look at the valves is thr any oil in thr, also do a plug read wich cly is burning oil, also why did the engine com apart is thr any residual oil bin left in the exhaust or intercooler.

i have a few escort numbers you can try, thy good prices and girls very tidy, this is wat i do fella. its all i need thm for a quick fuck thn back to doing my shit. these are in greater manchester by the way.

and i use 60nm for my last tightening torque setting rather than the very vage 90degree, this way u can always recheck after a track run and also wen head is fit go over all the bolts to make sure thy have all been run in to the same which i bet a pound to a penny your inside bolts (number 1-6 will be all around 35-45nm, this is the biggest problem with the 90degree final setting, its leaves alot of room for errors and ultimatly engine failure.

Evidence: i have all old books from 1996-2005 and have checked them all just in case, plus the new all singing and dancing version on my lap top and all toyotas of around this year have not got stretch bolts. and i have measured thm against the new 1s and guess wat no stretchy stretchy. think you have been top trumped. i can put up the 3G-S, 7AFE,4AFE,2AD-TRB and the 5EFE, and all say the same. the only head bolts i have found from arond this eara that are stretch and this is by measuring thm are the head bolts off the 1zz-FE thy stretch bad as i found. i had a fuel leak on 1 of these engin

yep me to just check auto data if u require proof.

lol, u can reuse the old 1s as thy ae not strech bolts, but i would recomend u measure thm first just to see if thy have streched due to incorrect fitting or have been run at high booste presure.

yep u are totally wrong mate lol, its mainly the noise supression or insulation that matters on plug leads for high rpm ignition frequenceys, plus a low resistance wire allows the current to get to the plug better giving better raise time, and matters more if u running a high kv coil. minamizing the negative affect of errors on spark duration and ultimatly the impact on dwell angle. in other words a much sharper throttle respons. as for the actuator, all the standard 1s do not hold presure very well thy hit peak booste and thn slowly start to drop presure. hope this helps fella chris.

wat u up to mate just out of interest.

yep mate as said im working on a 150hp N/A i hope, its not hard to achive and a fuel reg and dizzy are all u need to set it up, would recomend a fmic thw. if u want to achive more i would recmend som sort of nock control and charge temp and exaust temp monotoring.

cpould be a wheel bearing dave. apply the foot brake and if it stopes moving it will be the bearing, trackrod end needs a new boot fittig

i will say harmonic front complete pully insted of a 2 peace pully

put it on a low milage cover and get a little run about, or get a starlet and change all your bits over and do not tell anyone,

the steering rack connects to the TB pipe number 5, number six goes to other side of steering. u know if u have got thm mixxed up as the steering will go light at hig revs. block 1,2,3 up not needed. 7 goes to map sensor on bulck head. 8 is brake sevo. 4 i think is the recert valve

motorist, mate u wores thn a rapist or murderer. we all need to pay for our spins of loud exhausts. pisses me right off. easy money if you ask me.

sounds like water pump but it cant be, have u run it up to temp sounds dry, like no water to the back of i,t or alternater, or even something on your timing belt did u remove it to do your pump. remove the waterpump belt and start car is it still thr.

the 5e exhaust will be the better of the two, but the problem comes with which intake mani and throttle body u running, the exhaust will aid cylinder scavaging which has benafits for both mid-topend hp and torque but mainly torque. as i have found with the corrola 1st gen, this motor has the turbo inlet manifold, but a very small throttle plate this TB helps restrics the motor to 88hp, now the 100ps JDM 1stgen engine has this manifold but a much bigger throttle plate taking this motor to this power, wer as the roller mani has a larger throttle body so the restriction is in the manifold small

this makes no sense wat your saying about the cold air feed to the engine, you have the most restrictive inlet manifold and thn restrict even more with this intake piping, in all respect i would think u would see better bottom end and a lot less top end. thr iz 1 way to find out put a vac gauge inline just before the throttle body and see wat presure your getting at set rpms. i would bet money u see negative presure right from the word go and the more u increase rpm the more negative presure will increase, showing loss in top end as the engine iz hitting peak flow early, thr are ways around th

hello thr fella, your car will be a nice addition to the flock. u up for som of these meets tom.

just to confuse u even more look at this little monster gt2554r am thinking of running this good spool.

gutted for u ste, i have never seen a crank seal go and drop all oil thy normaly just weep, you had a presure gauge to, gutted, the extra power running thw this motor will find any weakness and big end shells are a 1st stop. are u sure it dropped all the engine oil mate.

go six speed if u going any bigger thn the ct9 hyd will make for lots of high speed boost. look at som after market turbos ste, the tdo4 is a monster but late 2 com in which makes for not so nice driving. will get you som types of turbo i would like to see run on the 4e. the GT2554R, or the simple GT17 or GT22 luk thm up i like.