mech5107

I run now ebc dimpled and groved discs and yellowstuff...they are shit...no brake when cold, a lot of dust, very aggressive braking when hot, stupid hissing noise when cruising... Will change to a small 4pot kit soon...

With a properly operating distributor cap and rotor + good quality spark wires, turbo cars reach 300hp without an issue...so don't see the point to do so...

So, are we talking for thicker discs, but for the stock calipers? ie 20mm discs?

After you shut engine off, what is the fuel pressure? It should stay at a bar or so...there is a check valve I think...

I haven't measured it at boost but do you have a wideband?

Can you find the color code/name? I would like to make mine the same color...

What color is this? Gun Metal?

What i'm trying to say is that Toyota tunned the stock ecu in a way that above normal (stock pressure) the engine runs very rich for safety reasons. That's why people are able to run hybrids and td04 with stock ecu. The FCD is totaly ok, knowing what you are doing (and in PWG123 case free!!!). So with a wideband and the sard FRP he has now, he can lean it a bit in high rpm, while ecu's close loop control will keep it at 14.7 in cruising and idle. I personally don't like running full rich, loosing power and wasting petrol...

Every starlet i've seen with CT turbo and stock ecu, FRP, pump, runs rich as F*ck over 0.8bar. Mine goes richer than 10:1. Only with lower fuel pressure of 2bars, with vac. hose attached, i can hold it near 10-10,5 at high rpm. Only with a bigger turbo like T25 the stock ecu is fueling "lean" (~12.5:1) I say, buy an wideband, check that fueling is ok and leave the FCD there if it's wotking. But 1 bar on ct is near the limit of the turbo, so maybe good time to go for a td04 or something...

Vacuum leak in a car with map sensor will race the idle, not lower. When you fiddle with the TPS, it's probably moved and getting from idle contacts to no contact, as when cruising with light throttle. When this is happening, AFR will be around 12,5. Do you have a wideband in the car?

You need a time delay relay...go to a good electronics store and you will find what you need...

What car is it?

It's not the power, or AFR, or timing killing stoock rods. It's the torque that's the problem...

Yeah, but what model exactly? First gen, second?

Nice! What Ibiza is this lip from?

Mine has a boss that was previously on a KE30.

http://www.motoiq.com/Projects/Mazda/Miatabusa.aspx

I don't know much details... The mani is welded as usual, but then the welds are grounded and polished. That's why the clean look.

This is a Greek car...in is normally an EP81, converted to GT turbo...

The stock dash is converting the mechanical signal to square wave signal for the ecu. Check your ecu pinout and find this cable. This will give you the front wheel speed. For the rear, just tap in the abs sensor signal.

I have tried many brands, including Eneos, Motul, Mobil 1, redline. Now i'm using the AMSoil Dominator 15-50 and i think it's the best i've tried...both from consumption point of view, pressure and temp

By adjusting the top mounts as in the first pic, it's not bad at all...the other way around actually. This makes the king pin angle greater and thus bringing a lot of good points to the suspension setup, like better self centering and reduces scrub radius.

If you have one spare, take it to a machine shop to reinforce it. With a heavy clutch, it will crack again...

How much miles have you done form the rebuild? Maybe manifold, exhaust flex "thing" soaked in oil and now cleaning day by day... Also, are you sure it's oil? Do you see the oil level dropping?

How you can find such parts like the dash so easy? I'm looking for the original lip and nothing...