AdamB

That setup won't make any power beyond 6500rpm.

Usually about 1.7/1.8 bar of boost on a GT30 size turbo will lift the head.

I found the bump & rebound a lot stiffer in BC's, in fact I think they're one of the stiffest I've ever felt. Wasn't a fan.

If compression is good, nothings leaking etc then leave it as it is. Just replace the timing belt, water pump.

Same as the ones here pal http://www.steelconrods.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=22_46_172&products_id=470 Speak to Abbott, he had Rob put these in his head as far as I know.

I wouldn't know the brand, but the terminals will be all the same (brand) for the parts you're looking for. Make sure you get terminals with the same surface finish as that of the component you're mating to, ie tin plating, silver etc.

Why don't you read what I put properly. The idea is pretty simple, try sucking on a straw which is only 1mm diameter to get a mass flow rate of 20 kg/sec... You can't. Same logic applies to an exhaust valve that's too small and you can't expel X kg of gas.

The E-series cylinder heads were used as the "Eco" range of Toyota engines back in the day, hence why the camshafts are meshed and the valves are small. The exhaust valve is kept small for "internal EGR", whereby you don't get the burnt gas escaping through the valve and therefore burn it again, much like today's EGR except they use a valve and the ECU controls when it opens dependent on driving conditions. EGR is bad on a performance engine as you don't want residue burnt gas left in the cylinder as this takes up room for fresh oxygen! This is no good for those that want to tune the

I believe you can fit the Supra 7MGTE valves, but the stem needs cut and the collet grooves machined back in place as they are too long to fit the E series head. Supertech do off the shelf valves. Supertech also do Viton stem seals Certain Supertech also do springs Someone does bronze valve guides (can't think of company name) Camshafts:- Speedvision, Ivan Tighe, Tuning Developments are the only ones I know of that are billet. I wouldn't touch regrinds in an E series head due to the meshed camshaft.

If you use the same rings in the same cylinder, you don't need to hone. The ring would have already seated to the cylinder wall.

1 bar / 14.5 psi is the lowest I'd like to see, any lower and really there's an issue.

Carbone Lorraine RC5 for the weight of a glanza.

That pressure is fine for idle.

Most will be M6x1.0, just take one out and measure the length of what you want to replace. Remember some holes may be blind tapped, others maybe a through hole so length could be important.

Funny thing is, people think the word "forged" refers to a part A OEM piston and a "forged" piston are still made of an aluminum alloy lol. Unfortunately all of it is just marketing, probably gained traction from Need for Speed

Still need to hone a block when fitting forged pistons anyway. You'll need to have the valves measured to determine whether they need replacing. Measure the ID of valve guide, and OD of valve, this will give the oil clearance. If it's out of tolerance, replace both.

The viscosity of oil changes with temperature. You'll see the specified on a oil spec sheet, might give the viscosity at 0 degC and again at 100 degC. The thinner it gets the less oil pressure you get and the more chance of losing bottom end bearings etc. Stick with a 5w40, Shell Helix is a good oil but there are better out there if you want to do trackdays, Gulf Competition, Fuchs, Millers. Any Ester based oil will last well up to 130 degC and even up to 140 degC before breaking down. You can use a 10w for summer months, 5w will give better start up protection during colder mont

Not with a decent oil. Most oils are regulated between 85-95 degC. You don't need an oil cooler until you see 130 degC.

Try and get a very thin flatblade screwdriver under the head of the bolt, and lever it as you undo it with a ratchet.

Does the oil pressure light come on when at hot idle? Dismissing the bearings is ludacrous without checking them. Forged engines are far from indestructable.

AST/KW/Bilstein/Ohlins They will be the best ones to get hold of, can vouch for Bilstein and KW, although not on a Starlet.

Get a pic up of the plugs mate. Don't matter what anyone says about electronics these days, can have all the gauges in the world telling you this that and the other, but the plugs are the ones sat inside the combustion chamber! A race spec inlet will cause cylinders to run leaner than others as the entry point isn't central. Nothings indestructible, forged or not pal.

I'd say OEM bushes, remember that aftermarket items require more service maintenance and require to be greased up from time to time. I also found SuperPro grease was like water, powerflex grease is much better.