AdamB

Bumps

The rods aren't the problem anyway with a stock engine its the pistons. Jamaicans have had 300whp through stock rods.

EMU can do it, but it doesn't work, someones tried it before and couldn't get it going so you really need a standalone with 4 ignition drivers. As said you can use the original VR sensors from the dizzy setup to have sequential ignition and injection.

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Try YarisTurbo mate, I'm sure he had a bottom mounted T3 fitment mani.

9mm, M9 spline.

Won't fit, cats in a different place on a turbo to N/A.

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Well red is a live, and yellow is ignition. Normally

What ecu are you using mate?

Sad times mate but I would break it and stick with the reliable Honda Not worth pouring more cash into a car that was pretty much finished and should be running the way you expect it to.

Buy a car that already has done what you were planning on doing, say engine wise or body wise then you just add a few touches to make it your own. Save yourself a load of cash I think it is a waste of money, but what else are you going to do with your hard earned? Put it under your mattress and what it depreciate?

The upper part is welded I believe. The middle section is bolted to the headlight brackets, just unbolt it from there and away you go, you have to remove the indicators to get to it though.

top £1200 for the turbo

Yes mate it will be fine for long distance, its quite the opposite actually with forged engines, they don't like short distances,. unless you use pistons with high silicone content that run piston-bore clearances of 0.0015-0.025 or cast pistons which don't expand as much Word of warning though pistons with high silicone content become more brittle and are more susceptible to damage through knock.

50-55 degrees is a bit low mate. 75ish would be ideal. Are you losing any oil on the dipstick? Because the pistons aren't expanding to what their operating conditions the oil control ring won't be scraping the oil off the cylinder walls, giving it a chance to burn.

Ah yes Ross use one of the largest piston-cylinder wall clearences, would explain why you get a fair amount of crankcase pressure. Do you have an oil temp gauge by any chance? If so whats the maximum it reaches on your 4 mile journey? Would deffinately recommend getting another car or let it warm up fully before driving, the excess blow by will be hurting your oil on short journeys for sure, keep on top of your oil changes

Doing little mileage on a forged engine isn't a good idea really as you've already said the pistons don't get time to get up to operating temperature to close the gap on the cylinders which is much wider on forged pistons than stock cast pistons. What pistons is it your using by the way?

Nope there isn't any thats easily accessible when the sumps off. If you was doing a cambelt it would be worthwhile doing the crank and oil pump seal though.

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Here's the reasons explained why you should run your engine in hard http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Drop me a pm if you got any more questions mate Cheers Ryan

The biggest restriction is the throttle body