AdamB

You can calculate it: Post #26 http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/60779-adams-5e-monster-gt/?hl=adamb#entry781684

Depends on budget, there's loads of cars out there these days for thrills. A45 AMG, Civic Type R, Leon Cupra 280/290, M3, M5, Evo, STI, S15, 370z, etc etc

Will be hit and miss really, some engines even fail at 1 bar. If you lower the compression you got better chance of keeping the engine alive.

What turbo? 1.2 bar on a CT9 is very different to 1.2 bar on a GT30 lol.

As I said, save your money, it's really not worth it pal. Best place is probably still SpeedVision tbh, or try giving Tim @ TB Developments a call, he can get good parts at good prices.

Save your money, not needed for that power.

The interfaces between the low-mid budget ECU's are very similar, I've not used Emanage, DET3, but things like Kmanager, Link, Haltech, Omex, DTA are all fairly similar and easy to pick up on. The ECU's I mentioned have a whole totally different user interface, which to some is more like writing code lol. I work for an OEM manufacturer and work very very closely with the calibration team, so I know exactly what goes on regards to ECU software, interface, layout, options etc. I understand what you're saying, people aren't in business to not make money though. It depends on how big the firm is, the bigger the firm you would expect greater knowledge and more flexible in using / selling various aftermarket options. Issues arise when people aren't upfront with the customer so to speak.

You have to take into account disc offset and bolt pattern.

It's not about the settings, even high end ECU's have the stuff you mentioned. It's about the user-interface, terminology etc. Some people aren't fully aware of what does what so to speak on different software. I know someone that can calibrate the best aftermarket ECU's money can buy, Syvecs, Pectel, Motec etc but he can't do Emanage... Or at least not as well. That doesn't make him shit because he can't calibrate budget ECU's despite being simpler and using basic settings.

I know exactly what would happen if a tuner mapped something they wasn't comfortable with because I've seen it all before... get shit results, posts it on the interwebs slagging off that tuner for a shit map / poor results, reputation goes down, business falls in certain markets etc etc. Is that a risk a tuner would be happy to take? I certainly wouldn't. Not being funny, but probably 90% of tuners wouldn't touch something decent like a Syvecs, Pectel, TAG etc because it's far too advanced for them, and guess what... End up with shit results. It doesn't matter whether you pick a budget ECU or a high end spec one, it's only as good as the person calibrating it. If you're willing to travel then find someone who will calibrate an ECU that's within your budget. If not stick with someone local and take their advice on choosing something they know well and can get good results from.

You will always get a small amount of leakage, that's just the nature of it. Some gaskets are more "forgiving" than others, but the truth is all gaskets are shit, it's just easier and cheaper to replace a gasket than it is to re-groove a block or sleeve a cylinder At least it's up and running, lesson learnt.

Running that rich is just wasting fuel.

Gasket is not "always" the issue. Think of how the head is clamped down... If the head is not clamped down sufficiently, you're going to get blow by past the gasket creating a pocket of increased pressure between the head and the block, then the obvious question, what's going to blow first? The head? The block? Or the gasket?

Their good on a fairly light car, but there is much much better out there. The likes of Carbone Lorraine, Carobtech, Pagid RS, Performance Friction to name a few. I've heard good things about the Ferodo DS1.11 and DS UNO but never used them.

Track tyres for the track Road tyres for the road Simple. Fact is road tyres handle better on the road than track tyres because you can't get the heat into them.

That's way too rich.

Yep they are. Get on to Sam @ Speedvision, he does them and sure he'll ship them at a good price

Aasco flywheel

Stroke /end thread

Better off with a 5E

1386.071 cc Stock stroke What is it you're trying to achieve mate? I wouldn't advise it.

Define "at their best"? You have to factor in fuel pressure also. Fuel pressure too low and all you get is a dribble out the nozzle. Fuel pressure too high and the injectors become uncontrollable. Never drop fuel pressure below 2 bar, and never go over 6 bar. You have to bare in mind, how often is the injector going to see 90% + duty cycle? Is it a track car where it's going to be at high / maximum load all the time? A road car will very rarely see high injector duty cycles, hence why a competent tuner will use the duty cycle to their advantage, it saves the customer spending £500 on a set of ID 1000's or whatever. Risk of running high duty cycle is increased heat, potentially burn the injector out. I've seen injectors at 100% duty cycle with no issues. It saves you a lot of money for something that's never going to be taken advantage of, besides stock injectors cost about as much as twix.

That will be due to the duty cycle, a lot of tuners will take injector cycle to about 94%. It all comes down to how competent the tuner is.

You'll be fine to rev to 8100-8300rpm (on new OEM springs) as I said on the phone pal. Some P&P's go to about this or slightly more. Yes the old valve springs will have sagged, lost tension blah blah, but on the other hand I certainly wouldn't be going chucking in a set of Zisco or Cruise springs because they don't come with any specs to install them at! (Zisco at least). Chucking in a set of aftermarket springs without checking the base pressure, installed height, free height etc etc is asking for trouble! Springs aren't necessarily the issue, its the acceleration from the cam that is.