Sam had an Almera gti. Was rapid for an na haha loads of fun. Was stripped out to bare metal in the back ad stupidly low. The sr20 is a good engine and not that hard to turbo either.
As said before gutted for you dude. I had mine mapped at td on the 16th of February and on the 28th of feb (my birthday) the big end shells started knocking. Took them out the next day and managed to get away (so far) with just a new set of shells as the crank was fine. I don't blame td at all as it was quite clear that they were all genuinely very worn and tired, was just unfortunate Hope you get it sorted
Can guarantee its not an oem mk 1 lip, got one myself and the one on the photo is too deep, plus the mk1 lip doesn't have contour lines it's just smooth, and there's not enough to cut any away. Not being a dick just saying.
Not to hijack the thread but would not setting the timing right cause the pistons to melt as they did? Just wondering out of interest? Or do people think that other factors (ie Fueling) also played a part?
This was my friends advert for his Renault 5 unfinished project. We share a lock up with him and I can confirm that he is tapped. The listing ended a while ago but you may still be able to see it... Item number- 221197372993
Go for it, much less to worry about than on a ct9 setup I reckon. I do t have an air filter or mesh, no coolant lines. No actuator (mines externally gated).
Mines td04 on emanage blue, standard injectors and no coolant lines on the turbo. Walboro 255 pump, braided oil feed from pirtek, silicone oil return from dean on here, wepr mani and decat, Evo 8 front mount, exhaust, rrfpr. Made 228.7bhp.
I may be wrong but on these engines The fuel pump doesn't prime unless the starter motor is engaged. Ie it will only prime if the engine is turning over.
Welcome! Hi/lo boost just means when it's on "lo" boost it will boost to 0.35 bar, and on "hi" boost 0.65 bar. As soon as you start modding it so to speak you'll lose that though I'm afraid as you'll probably removed the solenoid. Have a read through some tutorials on here.
If I were you I wouldn't waste my time putting efi pipes and the cat back in etc, massive waste of time and effort and the car will drive like a bag of shit. The adjustable actuators don't have interchangeable springs you adjust the preload by screwing in/out a nut on the arm of the actuator. So you'll need a boost gauge and a bit of patience to set it up just right but it's not hard to do. As for the hole/pin type I can't remember which is for which but one is for glanza turbos (ct9b) and the other for gt turbos (ct9a) a quick search on here will tell you which. When I was still ct9 I ran a standard fuel pump with fpr with no issues but if you're going td04 at some point in the future you might as well just buy a fuel pump anyway. I had a hks actuator for a while but eventually went wepr externally gated. Best setup you can have really. I've now got a wepr externally gated td04 setup, can't fault it.
get a hks adjustable actuator and set that to just below fuel cut. Or you could get an aftermarket ecu which would be the best option but they are expensive compared to an actuator.